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Flushing Out Salt Deposits Inside Outboard Motors
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Tug



Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 983
City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 70 HP Suzuki had salt deposits when i bought it...the pee indicator was very weak.I brought it to the dealer because i thought i may need a new water pump or impeller. Mechanic said both the water pump and impeller were good and that he had to clean the lines from salt deposites. He did mention Salt Away but said if i had the dispenser that CLR ( Calcium,Lime, Rust remover ) for plumbing would work just as good.I would of thought the CLR would be kind of strong to use in the cooling system. Tug
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C-Hawk



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 2145
City/Region: Carpinteria / Channel Islands
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Hawk
Photos: C-Hawk
PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doryman wrote:
I seem to remember that somewhere someone said that the flushing attachment was not to be used while the engine is running. Can anyone definitively confirm or deny?

Thanks,
Warren


If you use the "rabbit ears" on the lower unit to flush with --- run the engine at idle.

If you attach the hose to the flushing port (like on my Honda 90)- do not run the engine.

(check the owners manuel for your engine)

I fill the flushing bowl with vineger and let the water dilute it.

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2002- CD22- "Fishtales" returned to factory 2008
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rjmcnabb



Joined: 01 Sep 2007
Posts: 159
City/Region: Pender Island (Southern Gulf Islands)
State or Province: BC
C-Dory Year: 1999
C-Dory Model: 16 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Luna
PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 2:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Several years ago my O/B guru told me that a major source of salt buildup was from tipping the motor up as soon as you stopped it. This trapped water at specific points within the cooling jacket while the engine was still warm, and these sites were where salt accumulation occurred. That was for a small 4-hp on my sailboat. What I did after that was allow the O/B to cool, lift it vertically by the mount to drain, and only then tilt it. I've kinda followed that as best I can with a 90-hp, that cannot be lifted up. I idle the engine for a few minutes to be sure it is as cool as it will get, then shut it off and let it finish cooling with the prop in the water. Then I raise it incrementally, letting it drain what it can until it is all the way raised on tilt. He also told me that salt flushers were "soda ash" (whatever that is, and was not good for the engine. Soda ash sounds suspiciously like lye or KOH, either of which will dissolve aluminum while producing lots of free hydrogen Shocked !! Flushing your engine with the hose connector runs water backwards through the cooling system, which is why you should not run the engine while flushing that way. Sleepy-C has pictures of this flush technique.
Rod

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1TUBERIDER



Joined: 14 Mar 2006
Posts: 246
City/Region: Crescent City
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I flush with a salt away solution poored in a flush bag, then I run the engine till the gas is out of the carb and call it good. I do this after each time out usually within an hour of trailering the boat.

I switched from rabbit ears a few years ago. I believe the immersion of the lower unit into the bag simulates it being in the water and I get a better flush.

I also wash the trailer rails on the inside with a hose used for watering plants with a salt away solution and wash the entire boat after each outing, flush the wheels and brakes to with the same.

This helps with the salt build ups.

If left moored I would try to flush with fresh water after each use and then if safe leave the motor tilted up out of the water.

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