Windlass Positioning

mcc272 · Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 7:47 pm Post subject: Windlass Positioning

I am about to install a Lewmar V700 windlass on my CD22. I know a lot of others have used this windlass. Is there a need to relocate the cleat on the foredeck or can the windlass be installed forward of the cleat? Also, once the windlass is installed, can an anchor rode be cleated off to the foredeck cleat or does the windlass chafe the rode?

colobear · Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 8:04 pm Post subject:

Jim,

I installed a lewmar V700 on C-Cakes and had no difficulty placing it forward of the cleat. The windlass needs to be roughly centered over the rear part of the anchor "locker" in order to have the greatest amount of fall for the chain/line so putting it so far back you'd have to move the cleat would not be a good thing. I have not cleated off on the deck cleat, I have line guides (forgot the official nautical term there Smile

) on each side of the bow and can do a bridle off of them. I don't think there would be a problem cleating off as you suggest but have never done it.

flrockytop · Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 8:06 pm Post subject:

I place mine with just enough clearance to be able to secure the chain to the cleat. This works fine.

mcc272 · Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 9:03 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the fast responses. That is great guidance and will make the process easier. I pick up my V700 tomorrow from my local marine supplier who matched Defender's price of $639.99. Ordered it today and I get it in the morning. Tomorrow is either cutting holes in the foredeck or doing the heavy 12V wiring. Progress either way and hopefully my consulting work will let me launch before Labor Day.

By the way, the "line guides" on on either side of the bow are most likely skene chocks. I may add them as they are very useful.

Thanks again.

Jim

colobear · Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 9:46 pm Post subject:

Ah yes the famous skene chocks my ancient mariner's memory is getting pretty ancient...as am I Smile

Thanks and good luck. PS. The templates provided with the Lewmar V700 were quite accurate and by just following the directions installation was pretty easy. Note that the deck is an inch or more thick and you may need to buy longer stainless steel bolts to affix the windlass to the deck. That same faulty memory makes me think I had to do that.

thataway · Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:04 pm Post subject:

On both the Tom Cat the 25 we have the windlass infront of the cleat and always cleat the line to the cleat--there is slight pressure on the windlass does not cause any problems or chafe. I would be reluctant to allow chain to bear against the side of the windlass.

mcc272 · Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:49 pm Post subject:

Bob --

I too always cleat my rode off rather than letting the windlass take the load. I will watch carefully in laying out the installation to see what I can do to minimize any rubbing of the rode on the windlass or at least to insure that if it does, it is on the rounded portions of the windlass which are less likely to chafe.

Thanks.

Jim

Barry Rietz · Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 12:15 am Post subject: Anchor Rodes

The very best way to secure an anchor rode, while at anchor, is with a short (five foot long)"nylon three-strand" line spliced to a chain "grab hook" at one end, and a "thimble" at the other. The "thimble end" is then secured to the "bow eye", and the "grab hook" is slipped over the chain anchor rode and "payed out". This allows the anchor rode more "scope", less pitching motion of the vessel, and more sleep for the crew! If your using a "nylon rode" the same rigging system can be employed using a "hitch" on the line rode. Using this method of anchor rode deployment also eliminates any "stress" placed upon the foredeck cleat!

Nunya · Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 12:29 am Post subject:

I suggest you overdrill your mounting holes and pot with epoxy and add a backing plate under windlass.

matt_unique · Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 6:35 am Post subject: Oh yes

mcc272 · Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 7:23 am Post subject:

I have been overdrilling and epoxy filling for decades. It is the only way to go. I have to agree that Dr. Bob's article is an excellent respource for those that are not familiar with the technique. Not only does it prevent water intrusion into the core but it also makes for a solid epoxy plug that prevents compression problems that might ocur if you over tightened the bolts and they squeezed the fiberglas skins with the balsa in between. Prevention of compression problems is just as important as prevention of water intrusion.

Jim