Helm Wheel Clearance Solutions

[mcc272]

One drawback to our C-Dorys is that there is not a lot of space at the helm. If you modify the seat, you are likely to run into leg clearance problems.

One solution is a tilt helm hub ($$$$$) which also compounds the problem as it extends out further.

A second solution is shims or wedges to change the angle and open up the clearance. The problem with a home built wedge, in addition to the issue of cutting a wedge like that without a band saw, is that if the wedge is only on the front side, the helm mounting studs will not hit the backside of the helm at a 90 degree angle and there really should be a second, reversed wedge on the backside.

A third solution is to obtain a SeaStar back plate kit (HA-5418) which is a rear mounting kit. With the addition of some spacing blocks and longer bolts, I suspect you could move the hub forward more than the thickness of the mounting panel. It does not change the angle of the wheel but recesses the hub.

The final solution is that Teleflex sells a 20 degree wedge kit (Part HA-5419). Depending on the orientation of how it is mounted to the fiberglas of the helm, it will recess the helm hub a bit as well as increase the angle for a bit flatter helm wheel. The descriptions for this kit show it working for certain SeaStar helms but make no mention of the BayStar helm HH-4314 which so many of us have. I could see no dimensional reason why it would not work with the BayStar helm and have confirmed with TeleFlex technical support that it will indeed work with the BayStar helm. The current cost from www.go2marine is $63.40. After unbolting the helm hub and playing with it a bit with the wheel on, I decided that the flatter wheel will also be a benefit. This is the solution I decided upon and I have a 20 degree kit on the way. I will report on its installation but from everything I have seen, it looks like a simple and relatively inexpensive (it is all relative) solution to a common problem.

Jim

[marvin4239]

Good info Jim I'm looking forward to your report I have the problem you mention about clearance after modifing my seat. Hope it works out well for you.

[Mighty Bite]

I'll be watching for your report on the #HA5419 wedge. Been thinking about taking some action myself to resolve the "tight quarters"........other than radical surgery.

Also, Redden Marine offers this wedge for $57.+ for anyone interested.

[Sea Wolf]

mcc272-

There's at least one more solution I can think of, off hand, and that is go get a smaller diameter wheel.

Most are 13-1/5 to 15/1/2 inches in diameter, and wheels are made as small as 9", though that's probably too small for most folks, the very small ones being most suitable for a hydraulic second helm station in the cockpit at trolling speeds.

But a smaller wheel will often give some relief, perhaps enough, and can also be combined with one of the other methods to give the necessary clearance.

Just one more thing to add to the mix!

Joe.

[breausaw]

This is what I did:
After raising my seat took my zipsaw and moved the steering column up about 1.5 inches that was enough to allow my legs to easily slip under the wheel now. I didn’t have to disconnect the hydrolytic lines, just removed the built which allowed the steering column to hang down out of the way so I could extend the cutout with the zipsaw.

Since the bottom bolts for the wheel now extended into the opening were the column use to be I bridged the gap with a stout peace of stainless.

When I moved the steering column up this left a sizable gap under the column, so made something functional to cover the hole. After mounting my little catch-all using the same bolt holes that held the steering column decided the black knob had to go, made a replacement out of Sitka Spruce-after all she’s an Alaskan boat.
Now I have a place to toss my truck keys and cell phone and wallet, makes a great water bottle holder too.

[mcc272]

Well, my 20 degree bevel wedge kit came today and I have installed it. The template is not perfect as after you cut the template precisely, you need to do some Dremel carving to be able to get a straight shot on the nuts on the helm studs with a long socket. That was the only quirk but an extremely easy one to deal with. I mounted it with the wedge pocket toward me as I sit at the helm and, of course, the thick end of the wedge down and bolted to the fiberglas helm console. Then, you stick the helm studs through it and put on the nuts and tighten things down. It makes a huge change in thigh clearance, perhaps 2-3 inches. The wheel feels right and at a very nice helm angle which I suspect will be very comfortable when I get the boat in the water. The wedge bevel is extremely nicely made. It is black powder coated as are the top ends of the carriage bolts that fasten it to the helm console. It appears to be a very nice casting, perhaps of aluminum by the weight and the casting is 1/8" thick or slightly more. All is all, it is extremely sturdy and well made and a great addition to the boat solving solving the clearance problem I had at a modest cost. It is easy to highly recommend it.

Jim

[hardee]

Jim,

Any chance of a couple of photo's posted here. One of the new wheel from the helm side and one from the V-Birth side, that shows how much changing you had to do on the back side of the helm bulkhead.

Thanks for the post and the find. I sounds like a nice solution.

Harvey
SleepyC

[Doryman]

Jim, you are also going to be replacing the wheel as well, correct? What are the details on that wheel? I also hope you will post photos.

Thanks,
Warren

[mcc272]

I will eventually get photos, get an album set up and capture the rebuild of this boat. However, the questions that Warren and Harvey asked are easily sorted out without photos. First, the wheel. I simple reused the stock wheel so there is no change in that regard. It works well and I have one of David's teak helm hubs that I was not going to do without! Also, there is no change to the V-berth side of the helm. The wedge is fastened to the cabin side of the helm console. The best way to envision the final result is to sit at your helm. Use your imagination to pull your wheel straight toward you toward you by about an inch and bend it forward (up) 20 degrees to increase the thigh clearance by 2-3 inches. The result is a wheel that is slightly flatter (more bus driverish!) but not markedly so.

Jim

[Doryman]

I would like to find a flatter wheel so as to give my belly some more clearance! Did you locate any replacement wheels before deciding to stay with the stock wheel?

Warren

[mcc272]

Warren --

I actually thought initially that a flatter wheel (technically, a wheel with less dish) would be the solution. I looked everywhere I could think of for such a wheel and could not find much to chose from. There are a few undished wheels that are black molded plastic that look sort of like an older auto steering wheel. To get an undished SS destroyer wheel, you have to go to sizes that are so large they will not fit. In the end. I concluded that the wedge would do more than an undished wheel and having completed the installation, I believe that it does in fact give more room than an undished wheel although an undished wheel would create additional clearance in another dimension.

Jim

[rjmcnabb]

Jim,
Just a wild thought: can the wheel be installed on the shaft backwards? That is, flip it over, creating a "negative" dish. The hydraulic fluid well holds things out a ways from the dashboard surface--is there any finger clearance left?
Rod

[mcc272]

Don't know whether you could flip a wheel. There is a key in the shaft and I don't recall whether the slot for the key goes all the way through. I suspect not. Plus, I think it would be totally weird and would take some getting used to. If the 20 degree wedge is not enough to get acceptable clearance, then, perhaps one could combine the wedge with a tilt helm or wedge the wedge to get 40 degrees rather than 20 and a more "bus driver" wheel. The long and short of it is that there are answers but one needs to be creative.

Jim

[Doryman]

[jhwilson]