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Wandering Sagebrush
Joined: 21 Jan 2005 Posts: 2770 City/Region: Northeast Oregon
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Constant Craving
Photos: Constant Craving
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:22 pm Post subject: @#!!$ LED Trailer Lights |
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I am beginning to really hate trailer lights (actually I've hated them for years). The replacement LEDs that EZ Loader sent me are on the fritz. I am not sure if it is a corrosion issue in the wiring since I soldered the lights in, or if the damn things are "ruint".
Regardless, I am going to put a light bar or post together to get the lights out of the water. Does anyone have a good set of photos of their light bars/posts that I could use as food for thought?
Steve _________________ "And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." - Abraham Lincoln |
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Catch 22
Joined: 01 May 2008 Posts: 385 City/Region: Lynnwood
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Catch 22
Photos: Catch 22
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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i hate trailer lights too, i dont know how many sets ive gone through, when i bought the ones i currently have, before installing them, i sealed the edges and back with black 5200, and ran all the wiring though and old air hose, and sealed the back ends of that too, seems to have worked so far....
my other idea that i started work on a while ago, but never finished, is fiber optic trailer lights, where you would have a little box that mounts well up under the truck, or maybe even inside somewhere, that has LEDs in it and fiber optic cables that run down the trailer instead wire, the idea is that the only thing that would ever get wet is a non-corrosive plastic cable, all electrical and lights would be high and dry, i looked into it a bit and i think its possible, all the components exist, but the challenge would be making them bright enough, the other challenge, price...i bet we will see these one day though, you buy the unit, rout your cables down your trailer, cut them to length and you're done... _________________ Kevin Richards - Catch 22 |
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Matt Gurnsey Dealer
Joined: 11 Nov 2008 Posts: 1532 City/Region: Port Orchard
State or Province: WA
Photos: Kitsap Marina
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:44 pm Post subject: |
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EZ Loader has had a problem with their LED lights. The issue has been that the bracket the light mounts to was improperly fashioned, and torqueing the fasteners down on the lights actually cracks the housing.
This, of course, lets water infiltrate the unit, and then FZZZT.
I think a couple of washers used as spacers stops this from happening. _________________ Matt Gurnsey
Kitsap Marina
www.kitsapmarina.com
360-895-2193
(888) 293-7991 |
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lloyds
Joined: 02 Aug 2005 Posts: 1724 City/Region: sublimity
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 1996
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: undecided
Photos: 1996 22 Cruiser (Lloyds)
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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I too have fought trailer lights all my life. Seems like every couple of trips a different light would be out. But my current EZ Loader has been phenomonal. It is a 2006, prior to LED but those bulbs are exposed to water, salt or fresh, everytime I back down. And they never quit. Can't figure it out. Most bulbs are at least sealed in the fixture but these aren't. There is a large rectangular hole in the bottom of each fixture and they seem to rely on the air in there keeping the water out, and apparently it does. |
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colobear
Joined: 23 Jan 2005 Posts: 2154 City/Region: Denver
State or Province: CO
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: C-Cakes
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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I had the ez loader problem described and fixed it by using a silicon sealer along every visible seam on the light fixtures and under the fixture where it is bolted to the frame. I also ran a complete new ground system for the lights as many times the problem is a weak ground, especially when the trailer frame itself is used as the ground. _________________ Patti and Barry
formerly C-Cakes, now
rving around N. America |
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chromer
Joined: 27 Jan 2006 Posts: 952 City/Region: Anacortes
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 19 Angler
Photos: Checkpoint II
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 1:20 pm Post subject: |
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Call the EZ LOADER rep in Woodinville WA. The lights finally were redesigned properly. He sent me the new design, and mine have been dunked 100 times by now, no problem.
I went thru two sets of the original design quickly. The rep seems to be the only guy with the correct lights. _________________
Checkpoint II (SOLD 10/2020)
Alure Bertram 28 |
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Sea Wolf
Joined: 01 Nov 2003 Posts: 8650 City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
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Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 1:26 am Post subject: |
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Here are some of my thoughts from a while back on trailer lights:
Sea Wolf wrote: | Dang, the eternal stop/ tail-light deliemma!
Sometimes it seems nothing works! (at least for very long).
Here are some things to think about that can help your system work, although just as sure as I, or anyone, makes a specific recommendation, someone else will find that the named approach didn't work for them!
Grounds- One of the biggest problems with trailer lights is poor grounding. It's just as important to the circuit as the hot wire. Most trailers are wired so that the frame is grounded, and all lights depend on a good ground to the frame to work. Problem is that the ground wire from the light to the frame as well as the main ground wire up front where the harness is first grounded can corrode and break up the circuit.
First thing here is to
1) solder wires as good as possible, using
liquid electrical tape to cover the joint, or
2) use quality solderless connenectors with shrink plastic sealant tubing included or placed over them, or
3) some combination of the above that you prefer to keep the water/salt away from the metal wires and fittings.
I actually "double ground" everything: all grounds are made to the frame as normal, PLUS I ground every light back to the front harness with wires. In this way, the filament can find ground back through the frame OR the ground wire. Yes, it's a lot of extra trouble to run a second return circuit, but weak, intermittent grounds through the trailer frame (especially a bolted, not welded one, are not a problem.
Weak grounds can result in the light filaments grounding back through the lamp base and then through another filament and the subsequent wiring to find ground, which then lights up the other filament and produces a nonsense light pattern that seems to defy analysis.
If the double grounds seem redundant, that's good, because redundancy is one way to fight circuit loss, which is a easy victum to any interruption when no alternate paths are available in a series circuit.
Another trick in this area, is to cross-link the tail light filaments from right, left and center fixtures as well as bring two hot wires back from the front harness tail light source to the rear of the trailer. Lose one wire, and the lights still work.
Ok, so I'm paranoid about open circuits, but my lights generally do stay on.
When we raced small sailboats, we made a "light bar" that fit across the stern/transom of the boat and contained the lights as well as held the mast when trailering. A similar light bar on a C-Dory would allow the removal of the light system before launching to entirely eliminate the submersion issue.
LED's will undoubtably be the way to go, sooner or later. The first class truck-style components originally cost about $65 each, but less expensive alternatives in the $30 range are appearing. I don't know whether their quality is up to par, though.
Another way to eliminate common problems is to build a junction box up on the front of the trailer tongue to organize and make more solid the junctions between the incoming light harness from the tow vehicle and the outgoing lines to the trailer marker lights and stop/tail lights.
The stop/turn signal lights usually only have one junction to make, but the tail light incoming wire can be split into several wires for the marker lights and various tail lights, and that connection can be a funny one without some forethought. So can a ground junction in the "double ground" system.
I like to crimp circle connectors on each wire to be connected, bolt them together with a machine screw and nut, and then coat the entire connection with liquid electrical tape, and then tape wrap it. Enclosed in a sealed metal box, this connection seems bulletproof.
Using heavy, well insulated wires for the run back to the lights is also a plus.
I used 10 gague, 3-conductor heavy duty black rubber covered extension cord wire on my last re-wire. You have to figure out a way to keep from trapping water in the space between the wires and the cover, but the cover eliminates wire chafe and the resultant shorts. The cheap, flat 4-conductor wire usually supplied with new trailers is a ready made problem for chafe in the world of sharp-cornered trailer tubing.
In another vein, WestBar, I believe, makes the sealed clear plastic bubble units that have three bulbs inside that really avoids the corroded bulb base/socket issues. These replaceable units fit in the special made red lens and base fittings made for them. I use only these or LED's.
No end to this subject! Nor no absolute bulletproof system!
But, just like the mousetrap, everyones trying to get a better one invented!
Joe.
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_________________ Sea Wolf, C-Brat #31
Lake Shasta, California
"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous |
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Catch 22
Joined: 01 May 2008 Posts: 385 City/Region: Lynnwood
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Catch 22
Photos: Catch 22
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Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 1:39 am Post subject: |
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very good ideas |
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journey on
Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 3595 City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
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Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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The E-Z loader trailer under Journey On is now in its 4th year of service. In that time I've replaced 2 LED rear lights and NO marker lights.
The first light died in a couple of months, and I ordered another over the Internet. It's now in the 4th year of service. Sealed it and the connections with RTV.
The second light died about 6 mos ago. Before starting our summer trip I had to fix it. Both the light and the ground connection were bad. Remember, the current has to get back to the truck battery. Removed all the connections, including the bar light, re-did them and ran a dedicated ground wire from the lights to the front of the trailer, tapping into the ground wire from the trailer electrical connector. There is now a continuous ground path, by wire, from the lights to the battery. Sealed everything with RTV and we can only hope for the best. There was a lot of snap connections in the wiring that weren't sealed. they are now.
Boris |
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Wandering Sagebrush
Joined: 21 Jan 2005 Posts: 2770 City/Region: Northeast Oregon
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Constant Craving
Photos: Constant Craving
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Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:30 am Post subject: UPDATE |
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I just spoke with the folks at EZ Loader in Spokane. While they can not cover the lights under warranty, they are offering reduced prices on replacement lights. Something like $42 for both rear lights. They should be here in a couple of days.
John Scribner in the warranty department said that they had changed suppliers, and that the new lights do not suffer from the cracked housing problem. Both of the old lights were cracked and full of water. I am still going to make up a light bar as a safety backup.
Regards to all.
Steve
Edit: When I installed the last set of lights, I made certain not to exert too much torque on the nuts when I tightened things down. My suspicion is that road shock, in combination with the tightened nuts is was cracked the housings... |
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chromer
Joined: 27 Jan 2006 Posts: 952 City/Region: Anacortes
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 19 Angler
Photos: Checkpoint II
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Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:58 am Post subject: Re: UPDATE |
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You will really like the new design. Its just a more quality product, that fits the same mounts. Like I said, i have had no problems in over a 100 dunks now. I did get mine under warranty.
Wandering Sagebrush wrote: | I just spoke with the folks at EZ Loader in Spokane. While they can not cover the lights under warranty, they are offering reduced prices on replacement lights. Something like $42 for both rear lights. They should be here in a couple of days.
John Scribner in the warranty department said that they had changed suppliers, and that the new lights do not suffer from the cracked housing problem. Both of the old lights were cracked and full of water. I am still going to make up a light bar as a safety backup.
Regards to all.
Steve
Edit: When I installed the last set of lights, I made certain not to exert too much torque on the nuts when I tightened things down. My suspicion is that road shock, in combination with the tightened nuts is was cracked the housings... |
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Wandering Sagebrush
Joined: 21 Jan 2005 Posts: 2770 City/Region: Northeast Oregon
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Constant Craving
Photos: Constant Craving
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Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 8:16 pm Post subject: Update to the UPDATE |
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Today, the new tail lights arrived, as promised by EZ Loader. The mount design is different, and appears to be more substantial. The lights are on, they work, so it's off to Tillamook next week to chase some silvers.
Kudos to EZ Loader.
Steve |
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McDory
Joined: 22 Sep 2005 Posts: 26 City/Region: Edgewater, FL
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2001
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: McDory
Photos: McDory
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Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 12:06 am Post subject: |
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I installed a set of Pipe Lights about a year ago and they have worked well so far. I made the connections in the top 12" of the pipes to keep them out of the salt water. I ran all new wires including separate grounds all the way to the front of the trailer and used a cargo trailer junction box mounted on the tonque. Here is the set that I used.
http://www.pipe-light.com/single.php?model=Kit-1020 |
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Wefings Dealer
Joined: 29 Nov 2005 Posts: 2086 City/Region: Panhandle
State or Province: FL
Photos: Cruise Ship #4
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Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 12:28 am Post subject: |
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We have a great solution here in Franklin County Florida. The cops don't use lights on their personal trailers and they don't give tickets cause that would be hypocrisy and that just aint right. We just don't use em !No Problem!
Marc _________________ Wefings Marine Website
Since 1909 |
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Wandering Sagebrush
Joined: 21 Jan 2005 Posts: 2770 City/Region: Northeast Oregon
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Constant Craving
Photos: Constant Craving
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Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 1:30 am Post subject: |
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Wefings wrote: | We have a great solution here in Franklin County Florida. The cops don't use lights on their personal trailers and they don't give tickets cause that would be hypocrisy and that just aint right. We just don't use em !No Problem!
Marc |
Marc, it isn't the cops that worry me, it's the twit (on cell phone/shaving/doing nails/brushing teeth/talking with hands/etc.) in the VW Jetta that is about 4 inches back from the skeg on my BF90 as we wind our way through some of the fun traffic here in the NW. With trailer lights, they at least know when they're going to rear end me. |
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