Removing fuel from 25' cruiser tank

Anita Marie

I need some advice. I have about 40 gals. of fuel in the tank of my 25 that I need to remove. What is the best and safest way to do this.

Thanks
Fred

starcrafttom · Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 6:46 pm Post subject:

I have looked into this a number of times. There are a few hand pumps made just for gas but they are pricey. The best way I have found is to us a electric fuel pump. Just buy a in line accessory fuel pump, like you would get for a off road truck or something. Then have two long sections of hose. One for going into your tank and one for going into your storage tank. Then make up some long power leads to attach to your battery. Most of the hand or electric pumps for "fuel transfer" are for pumping out barrels and don't have a good hose to get down in to your tank. When I gave that out of gas boater gas on the sound this last summer this is how we did it. Takes a while but its really easy.

jennykatz · Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 6:51 pm Post subject: gas pumping

HOW ABOUT GETTING A PRIMER BULB HOOKING IT UP WITH A LONG HOSE STICK THE HOSE IN YOUR FUEL FILLER AND START PUMPING THEN PULL BULB AND LET IT SIPHON OFF INTO CONTAINERS. ANOTHER WAY WOULD BE TO OPEN UP FUEL TANK WERE THE FUEL SENDER IS AND SIPHON THIS WITH THE PRIMER BULB

Matt Gurnsey · Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 7:17 pm Post subject:

Or just use the primer bulb on the existing fuel line. Disconnect the existing fuel line, and with aditional hose use either the primer bulb and have the hose lower than the tank.

Or hook the electric pump to the fuel line.

Either way, you'll gat the vast majority of fuel out. Any further removal would require removal of the sending unit.

starcrafttom · Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 7:37 pm Post subject:

The inline pump set up is good to have as a back up on the boat. In the case that I used it we were pumping up hill. He's tank was higher then my boat and we had to go over the rail. I just gave him 10 gallons to get him into port and he gave me $80, cheaper then a tow. I could not have towed him any way, I did tow a ski boat on the way back that day.

thataway · Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 7:48 pm Post subject:

I have a system similar to Tom's. I have a Walbro fuel pump (any brand will do-and can be obtained at an auto parts store--but if you are going to leave it below the deck--as in the 25's lazarette area--then get an ignition protected pump.

I have used "Ford" replacement as well as other brands--including house brands. You should put a filter before the pump--so the screen mesh in the pump does not get plugged with debris. I used a "Sierra"--and it cost about $25.

I tied into the fuel line from the tank, where it went into the filter, with a hose barb to hose barb fitting. (Check your lines--they may be 5/16 or 3/8--you can adapt if necessary.

My pump and filter are on a bracket (the one I made in my album to demonstrate a "Fillet"--I also put a battery on this bracket. There is a vapor proof switch on the bracket. The hose is long enough to get the pump off the boat. I have the battery switch "off". Then connect (lug connectors) the battery, and turn the switch on. This allows pumping the fuel into the barrel or other tank. I prefer to have the pump off the boat, because of the danger of spark and fume ignition. I don't want to increase the danger of fire or explosion.

If anyone wants I can post a photo of my set up.

Siphon will only work if the tank is lower than the boat tank. Also be careful of grounding whenever pumping gas. Static electricity is a real potential source of ignition.

forrest · Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:27 pm Post subject:

If you have a kicker you can disconnect the fuel line from the motor and hang it over the transom so the fitting that plugs into the outboard is below the bottom of the boat. Slide a small finish nail along side of the ball bearing that is part of the check valve and start pumping the bulb. Once the flow starts you can fill alternate gas cans and keep the flow going until your pickup tube breaks suction, which means your tank is empty just as if your motor ran it dry.
Forrest

Wefings · Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:44 pm Post subject:

We use the NAPA 12v. automotive fuel pump w/ spin on filter setup like Bob , except ours is attached to a 30 gallon barrel . We have to pump alot of tanks of folks going from 2 stroke mixed to 4 stroke or just plain rotten gas that keeps them from operating their boats after a service that was initiated by bad fuel .
Marc

journey on · Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:11 pm Post subject:

You guys are way more sophisticated than me. I use a 1/4 fuel line down the fill port and siphon it out.

However, my question is: after you empty the tank, how much fuel can you put back in? The best I can do is 85 gal.

Boris

Larry H · Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:27 pm Post subject:

Good advise in the posts above.

Don't forget that there most probably is an anti-siphon valve at the fuel outlet on the boat's tank. That means that siphoning thru the O/B fuel hose won't work.

I made up the electric pump/hose/power-leads-to-the-battery rig mentioned above.

A refinement is to buy the fitting that is on the outboard motor where you clip on the fuel hose. Adapt that to a hose barb and put it on the suction side of the hose to the electric pump. Then you can pump out into containers, without removing any boat fuel hose fittings and the fuel will pump thru the boat's filter, resulting in clean fuel to then put into your truck or lawnmower.

I change the filter after I empty the tanks, to start clean for the next season.

I regularly pumped the tanks prior to long trailering runs and prior to winter storage.

localboy · Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 2:38 am Post subject:

Larry H, I'm going to ask the dumb question: Why do you pump the tank empty prior to winter layup? In my restored VWs, I pour in the required fuel additive/stabilizer (Sta-bil or comparable) at the six month or longer ratio and FILL the tank as much as possible so there is limited air space which = moisture space. I then run the car for 10 minutes or so to make sure the stabalized fuel makes it through the entire fuel/carb system. I do the same with all my other gas engines; lawn mower, power washer etc. What am I missing? Remember, I'm from Hawai'i, so "winter" to me is normally 60F. Wink

I'm still learning about the "mainland".

Larry H · Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 5:11 am Post subject:

LBM,

I used to live in So Cal and boated in the Pacific Northwest.

After a summer of boating I had to trailer 1500 or so miles. I wanted the aft end of the trailer light, so I pumped the remaining gas into my towing vehicle (1 ton van) and into 5's to be poured into the van. I also removed the SS prop.

The boat was stored in relatively warm conditions, so condensation was not much of a problem. I also did not want to invest in 50 gals of gas and stabilizer and let it sit 8 or 9 months, evaporating the lighter hydrocarbons leaving old gas.

From what I hear, the new E-10 gas doesn't store well, and some 'experts' recommend pumping the tanks for winter.

I have since sold the C-Dory and in my trawler I now have to deal with stablising up to 360 gallons of diesel for winter storage. I fill my tanks when I guess the price of fuel is at its lowest price before the spring price run up and add stabilizer. I filled my tanks in Jan and now have enough fuel for a 1,000 mile summer.

localboy · Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 11:36 am Post subject:

10-4. Mahalo. Makes sense, weight wise; plus you get to use the fuel for hwy travel. I was just reading a story in one of the boating mags about E-10 and all the various differences/issues and how they effect boating. Live and learn...and it appears there's ALWAYS something to learn around here. Thumbs Up