Used trailers for an '88?

[thompmcd]

Hi All,

I'm finally getting around to finding a trailer for an '88 22ft cruiser. I've heard that used trailers are a dime a dozen. If I bought a used trailer, how do I fit the boat. Is this a difficult thing to do?

I'm in the Southern California area if anyone has advice ... depending on the price I might be inclined to purchase new.

I'm also planning on using my 2001 Tacoma fitted with a towing receiver to pull it. My trailer - towing buddys think that my truck should pull the boat fine ...



Thanks,
Thompson

[jennykatz]

I bought a trailer for a bayliner it actually was a Karavan single axcel galv trailer got a great deal You might want to check out Olympic boats they went into bancruptcy so they might have a few leftover trailers .It was for a bayliner capri 21 ft.its 25ft overall. the c-dory 22 fits just fine you have to move the front stanchion a ft or so and move the bunks back then its smooth sailing . Make sure you wash out the drum brakes each time you use it you can check out the jennykatz last page look at the cc-23 on a bayliner trailer. good luck

[Matt Gurnsey]

Up here used trailers are hard to come by.

Crappy worn out trailers are a dime a dozen, but a good condition used trailer for a mid 20's size boat can be hard to come by.

Just for comparison, a new King or EZ Loader with Bunks will be around $3400 for a single axle or $4000 for a tandem. That's with Disc Brakes, Galvanized and Torsion axle.

Keep an eye on Craig's List, as used trailers do pop up there. AVoid painted trailers used in Salt Water, as they wear quickly and may look reasonable ok on the outside, but can rust from the inside out. We've had more than one boat arrive on a flatbed truck because a decent looking trailer collapsed under a boat while being towed.

[SEA3PO]

I bought a really nice trailer for $800 to put my tug on...it was not galvanized and that was fine for the tug that only is in fresh water... I would not even look at a trailer that is not galvanized... I would think on Craig's List you could find something fairly inexpensive that would fit...

You could measure a C-Dory at the marina...but remember the early ones have a different profile ... but not much different on a trailer... I had a local trailer place modify my trailer and it was not expensive.... I didn't like the bow mount and added side boards...

Used trailers will probably have drum brakes...usually no good.. the disk units are much better...and older trailers sometimes don't have brakes at all... in California you must have trailer brakes...at least on one axle... I wish mine were disks, although the 22 is really easy to tow..

Wefings in Florida sells aluminum trailers ...they are neat... I would sure trade my ole one in on one of those... ... next time I buy a new boat I want one of those ....

Joel
SEA3PO
Camarillo Ca.

If you locate one up our way (Channel Islands area) I can check it out for you... and if you need help modifying it I am pretty good at that too...

You might try trailer dealers and ask about used trailers... I have seen used trailers at our local one...

[cemiii]

Usually, the ones that are a dime a dozen, end up costing you about the price of a new one, plus a dime, after you finally fix them. But, I'm sure there are some good deals out there.

A roller trailer will probably fit without much mod. but I am not fond of them because they tend to unload too easily (forward or backward) if they are not fanatically and redundantly cinched in place forward and aft. Bunk trailers take some fitting largely because of the flat bottom and center keel on a C. Usually the 2x6 carpeted bunks can be swiveled to sit pretty flat if you can still loosen the bolts on a used one. Make sure the bunks are high enough to have the keel clear the rear frame. Likewise, if your bunks are far apart you may need a second inner set to assure the bow chine also clears the back trailer cross pieces. You need at least 1 and better 2 forward rollers plus the bow stop to properly support the front end. Good side "centering" rails will help a lot (especially in wind) and will keep your keel between the bunks. Again, heavy duty tie downs front and rear are a must.

You are right at the weight fenceline on one or two axles. If you can, go for two, with brakes on both. In towing it is always better to have "overkill" than to be "roadkill". Disc brakes superior to drums as they are much easier to flush and dry quicker.

If you haven't had a lot of boat trailer experience, if you can, go galvanized or aluminum, you will be much happier with lifespan and ongoing maintenance.

Electric loading winches are really nice, but I threw mine away for a good hand winch after a scary mishap.

Your Tacoma will probably get it around ok in mostly flat situations, especially if 4x4 for slippery ramps. But never get overconfident in a light vehicle. Some day, whether your fault or another driver's, you almost certainly will have to do an emergency maneuver and you will, at very least, wish you had a change of shorts. I had something like that happen to me in a 150 class Expedition, which I think is a much heavier vehicle. I now use a 250 HD diesel. Not as economical or green as I would like but a bunch safer.

From what I've seen in other posts many others will have totally different advice. This is just my 2 cents as to what would be my ideals as a real "trailer-chicken". Good luck.

Chris

[C-Hawk]

Thompson-

I agree with above posts concerning used trailers-- most of them are junk.
Sometimes you can find a great deal on a used one, but by the time you fix it up and adjust the bunks/rollers- you've spent as much (if not more) as a new one.
Check with Bob Nahm at Catalina Yacht Anchorage (C-Dory Dealer) in Ventura- I think he has one with no boat on it.
edit-- yep, he has one, make you a good deal.

Let's get together at the Islands,