Disc Brake Conversion and Actuator Check Valve

[Sea Wolf]

C-Brats:

I'm installing disc brakes on my trailer and would like to know if any of you are familiar with the conversion of the surge actuator over to disc brake use.

When converting to disc brakes, the surge actuator must be replaced for disc brake use, or the actuator changed over so the check valve in the hydraulic cylinder is defeated to allow the pressure created in the hydraulic lines to return to zero so the disc pads won't drag when not braking.


From previous discussions archived on the old C-Dog site, it was mentioned that this can be done either by removing the check valve or simply puncturing it.

Examination of the diagram of my actuator shows that what appears to be the check valve is the last component at the end of the cylinder before the fluid enters the hydraulic lines. It would appear that it the check valve (which is a set of rubber flaps with holes in the inner one with the outer one set to flap down on the inner one in response to hydraulic back pressure) could be either removed by disassembling the cylinder and reassembling it sans the check valve, or simply punctured with a sharp instrument from the fluid exit hole.

Has anyone done either of these procedures? The puncture one sounds easiest, but how much do you puncture the valve, with what, and are the possible complications?

Disassembly and removal would be very clean and should be simple, providing the remaining parts slip easily back into the cylinder.

I used to work on brake jobs as part of my summer employment during college, but woud like to know if there are any caveats regarding this less conventional operation?

Thanks!!! Joe.

[Adeline]

Hi Joe, Disc brakes are going to "energize" more forcefully when reversing than drums. You'll need a "reversing solenoid valve" http://www.championtrailers.com/REVERSING_SOLENOID_VALVES.HTM and perhaps even a "bleed type solenoid valve" if you're backing uphill. Good Luck, Pete

[Sea Wolf]

Adeline- Thanks for the link! It's a small world--note the following:

Yesterday at West Marine, while canceling an order for brake parts because the Cabela's price was better (even after price matching) and mostly because Cabela's had the parts IN STOCK, I bought the September issue of TRAILER BOATS magazine, which I purchased because it had an article testing out the 2005 90 hp motors (without the new 90 hp EFI Yamaha which was not available when the testing was done), and another article on propellers (nothing really new there). In the back of the magazine was an add for this same Champion Trailers vendor!

Besides having all the parts and complete kits at rock bottom prices, their "How to Install Disc Brakes" manual has a discussion of the actuator check valve problem and ways to deal with it, including a diagram of how to puncture the valve, although they don't 100% recommend it.

Their complete kit for about $400 plus $57 shipping from Louisiana to the west coast includes the brakes, discs, and wheel kits, all brand new stainless tubing and hoses, a bleeding solenoid lock out, and a new actuator designed for disc brake use, pre-drilled for the bleeding solenoid---absolutely everything you need from one source for probably the best price around.

Thanks for your link and recomendations! It provides both the needed information and the parts at the best prices available!!! Can't wait to get all the components and then put the C-Dory back in the water for the Fall and Winter fishing, which will allow me to get to the trailer w/o the boat blocking the access.

Thanks, again!!! Joe.

[Adeline]

Hi Joe, I assume your considering a Tie-Down brake kit. If so, there are some interesting threads here http://thehulltruth.net/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=36691&posts=3. If you poke around you'll find some discussions about Kodiak -vs- Tie-Down and issues with warped rotors and corrosion. This upgrade is definately in Adeline's future but I have'nt decided which way I want to go. Kodiak offers 4 different material options in either unitized or or 2 piece hub/rotor assemblies. $340-$804 w/o lines and actuator. For sure, the package you quoted is priced right. Please update as you move forward with it. Cheers

[Chuck S]

Look at an electrical activator for the hydralics. This replaces the surge fitting and will allow you to fit an electronic brake controller to the tow vehicle.

There are new proportional controllers for these, like the Tekonsha Prodigy which offer much better braking than any surge system.

-- Chuck

[Sea Wolf]

Pete and Chuck- Thanks for the advice. I'll keep the Kodiak Brankes and electrical activator in mind, since I've already ordered the parts for this upcoming conversion.

The Kodiak's certainly look like a rugged design with a whole range of additional coatings available for salt water water use. I'm here in fresh water now, so the basic stainless Tie-Down units should still be ok.

Since the Tie-Down products are carried by West Marine, Boat U.S., Cabela's. Bass Pro Shops, Overton's, and most other similar sources, they must be reasonably well made and worry free, as the amount of customer complaints and warranty issues from poor merchandise would force the vendor's to sell another brand.

If I had a 10,000 lb trailer to tow over to the coast to Eureka (160 twisty, tight, hilly miles), you can bet I'd be ready for the Kodiak's and a Ford F-450-650 (or Dodge, or Chevy, or GMC, or ..........etc.)

Here's a radical thought for you: why trail your boat and trailer when you could just drive it around on the back of a flat-bed wrecker with an inclinded power bed (portable launch ramp) off the ground? I think it'll fit under the freeway overpasses, and you could just camp in the boat cabin instead of messing with a van or four door truck cab/camper, etc. Whaddya think? (besides the $ 100,000+++ or so price tag!) Joe.

[Captains Cat]

One reason not to haul it arouond on a truck might be the price... The only Jer-Dan (a well known roll back name) on trucktrader.com is a 2004 model for $57K. There may be others but why ruin a good looking boat by putting it on an ugly (IMHO) truck....

Charlie

[Sea Wolf]

Charlie-

I was thinking one could custom paint the truck to suit the C-Dory Color scheme, add dual vertical chrome exhaust stacks, chrome or alloy wheels, customize the interior and upolstery, miorror tint the glass, put ibn a killer sound system, etc.

We have a week in Redding called Cool April Nights which is a non-stop car show, and some of the custom trucks are awsome. Joe.