Raymarine S1 Autopilot Install - Ranger 25

[IdleUp]

Raymarine S1 Autopilot Install - Ranger 25

The following is a summery of my installation of the Raymarine S1 autopilot in my 09 Ranger 25. I originally planned on installing the S1000 Autopilot from Raymarine, which sells for under a grand. This system is very easy to install however, it only uses the GPS for heading accuracy. After researching almost everything on the market I decided on the Raymarine S1 autopilot. Some of the immediate advantages are the inclusion of a rudder position indicator, combined with a magnetic fluxgate compass for only around $500 more. It soon became obvious, this would be a worthwhile investment since I was originally planning on installing a rudder indicator on my R25, which could cost $300-500. It just made good sense to go with the S1 system since it now provides rudder indication on the supplied ST6002 autopilot Controller, which almost paid for the upgrade to the better system.

Another advantage of the S1 system is the hydraulic pump, since it’s very quiet in operation you can mount it up by the helm and is barely audible when the engine is running.

ELECTRONIC INSTALLATION

The installation is straight-forward, the rudder indicator wire was run up to the helm area and hooked to the computer. Mounting the indicator took a bit of planning. I ended up buying some 90-degree brackets from Lowes and making my own. I included some images should anyone need to come up with a way to mount theirs.
Next, I installed the ST2006 display/controller above the helm in the chart compartment overhead. There is an opening for the right hand wiper, which allowed me to run the wire dressed up against the window frame to the helm, it is almost invisible. I ran this SeaTalk cable to the S1 Computer. Since I now had the SeaTalk cable up in the overhead cabinet, it made an easy SeaTalk connection to mount the transceiver for my remote control SmartController. I mounted the transmitter right in the center of the overhead compartment so it is line of site almost anywhere on the boat to the remote.
Next, I bought a 6ft. 12-gauge extension cord, wacked the ends off and hooked it into the 15 amp breaker on the 12volt power panel for power to the computer. I used the center (ground) as an earth ground to the boats chassis.
After a quick call to Andrew at Ranger to find out which wires to pick up my NMEA 0183 from my Garmin 4212 GPS system, I was now interfaced to the S1 computer as well.
The electronic fluxgate compass took a bit of planning however after about 2 hours, I found a great place to mount it. The compass was mounted all the way forward and mounted to the forward panel, which easily comes out with just two screws. I dressed the cable up against the upper panel and ran it all the way to the helm and made the connection to the S1 computer.

HYDRAULICS

The hydraulics was the most difficult to complete, I ordered 3-6ft lines from Ultraflex to include 2-T’s and 4-elbows.
I began by draining the helm pump and removing the two elbows. Next, believe it or not, I was able to (very carefully) run the three lines out the starboard opening where the power cables exit the helm area. I relocated the Cummins SmartTalk interface, and mounted the pump on the same board which was fiber glassed to the cabinet. Careful planning of the T fittings at the helm was very difficult and must be assembled in a special order or you won’t be able to tighten the lines.
After a few hours, I had everything in place and there I stood with an empty helm pump and maybe 18 feet of empty hoses plumb full of air. After a call to Raymarine – Ultraflex and Ranger, it became evident that all three said I would need a “Power Bleeder” to get all the air from the system. I spent a day calling every marine facility within 100 miles and most had not even heard of a bleeder much less have one.
After an almost sleepless night, I dreamed up a way to use the autopilot pump to bleed the system, by using the autopilot pump and a 12-volt, Gell-Cell, and some hoses. After filling the helm pump with a bottle and hose to monitor the levels -I used the autopilot pump to fill the center hose until I could see the fluid come up to the helm reservoir. I then hooked up the center hose to the auto pump. Next, by powering the pump in short bursts, I was able to fill the port hose to the helm pump by leaving the hose connection loose, to see it bleed. Finally, by reversing the 12-volt line, I was able to fill the other. I now had all three hoses to the auto pump and I continued to bleed both lines of any remaining air.
An important note is to make sure the rudder is centered before you loosen any fittings and do not turn the wheel until the system is bleed of all air in the hoses. As long as the helm was centered, if there is any trapped air, it will reach the helm pump and not be pushed aft to the ram.
So far, all the dockside commissioning went smoothly, it has been blowing 24-40 mph here on the lake so I have not been able to sea trial the system yet. However, the S1 sees the waypoints and sitting on the lift it looks pretty happy.
If anyone is interested I’ll post some notes on the sea trial.

Regards



Original helm hookup



New helm set-up with “T” fittings and return line



Galvanized bracket was picked up at Loews



By joining the two brackets it allowed me to have the ball link centered right on the pivot point. Second bracket is for mounting the rudder indicator.



This image shows the indicator mounted – note I bent in some angel to adjust to overcome the transom angle.



This image shows the rudder indicator mounted on a plywood support clear of the cylinder.



This image show the finished set-up – note I used the 2nd locking nut on the ram to secure my bracket, however the picup point is still centered over the input.



The fluxgate compass is mounted all the way forward away from any metallic items and generally hidden by a few throw pillows in the bunk.



The S1 computer is mounted to the starboard side rug with just one half of a Velcro strip which adheres to the rug.



This is my bleeding set-up after the system was bleed. While not show in image I used a quart of oil and a plastic hose to fill lines.



Use caution when reaching in this area on the starboard side when pulling cables etc. – the A/C power panel is hidden from view by the cables and for some reason there is no shielding to contain the terminals or in the event of a short or fire.



The is the Cummins Smart terminal block that was removed to allow the pump to mount on the intended mounting area.



This is the completed pump installation with the lines running up into the helm area. The S1 pump is very quiet in operation and is barely heard with the engine running.



I opted for the SmartController which provides numerous pages of information and the best part is it allows me to control the R25 from the forward or rear decks.



The transiver for the wireless remote is mounted forward in the chart cabinet. I powered the transiever off the SeaTalk cable going to the ST2006 controller.



The Raymarine ST2006 Controller was mounted over the helm in the chart cabinet. As shown in the lower portion, the ST2006 display controller doubles for a rudder indicator. It also allows you to engage auto or tracking functions and or steer the boat using the -/+1 & -/+10 keys.

[thataway]

Nice write up and installation: Thank you!

[TomRay]

Nice job! Looking forward to hearing how it works!

[Grumpy]

Excellent write-up and a nice job.
I just have one question about the location of the fluxgate. I am not sure where this is in relation to the anchor locker on the R25 but on my boats this would be very close to 2-300 ft of chain. Agreed the autopilot would presumably not be functioning while at anchor but I could see diffferences in how the chain was stowed causing some errors.
Hope it is not the case.

Merv

[captd]

Idleup,
Excellent install. Couple of questions as I am going to have the same thing installed by Wefing Marine. Is the S1 system the complete package? You refer to ST6002 controll/ display. Later in electronics/install you refer to ST6006 display controller. What am I missing?

Would not 50 ft of chain up front deflect your flux gate?

captd

[journey on]

Idelup,
That looks like a great installation. I especially like your bleeding procedure. Really want to hear how it works in the water.

Captd,
Raymarine seems to advertise modular systems, wherein you pick the parts you want, and they charge more for that. However, if you go here: Smart Pilot System Packs , you will find a list of complete autopilot "systems." There are those for outboards and those for inboards. Find the one you want, note the product number ( for example, a ST6001 S1 Hydraulic Outboard Pack product number is E12107) and order that P/N. As Idleup noted, they come without hoses and fittings, which you can purchase online.

Boris

[IdleUp]

Thanks for the kind words – I actually enjoyed the install since it afforded the opportunity to look the boat over. Ranger did a super job of putting the Ranger together, no matter where I look I didn’t find any poor workmanship. This little boat is a piece of art.

Captd - I made a mistake in my post - the only display I have is the ST2006 and the remote control -Smartcontoller.

Grumpy - Regarding the Compass, I have it around 18” below the locker, the Seatrial test which compares it to the GPS and it was only off “1” degree. Next time I get down to the boat, I’ll check the “mag” heading of the compass then unload the chain from the compartment and see if it changes.

Journey On – That is the exact page I used to order my system. Anyway you look at it, you’ll need to special order the hoses since every installation is going to be a bit different.

My First Seatrial

Even though it was blowing like heck today, I did get out to do the first stage of the sea trial. I found a large protected cove and did the compass deviation correction (swing compass) where you perform two slow turns (2 min each at 2-3 mph) and it gives you a deviation reading - anywhere between 3-15 degrees is acceptable and mine was only 2 degrees. Next, was the alignment of the compass heading which required you to just motor along around 3-5 mph in a straight line and compare the compass to the GPS heading and you adjust the compass to match the GPS. Again I was only off 1 degree.
The last test was the rudder response test where you make some quick turns and look for a certain response and overshoot amount - the manual said it should be done without wind and or current. So I bailed on that test for a better day.
Anyhow, The system worked perfect, just by pushing the auto button she held a pretty good heading considering the wind was gusting to 25 mph today.
I made up a quick route on my Garmin 4212 with 6 turns then pushed the “track” button and it steered around the course with no problem. The most fun was sitting in the aft deck and steering the boat home with the remote.
I’m really pleased with how super quiet the S1 pump is, as quiet as my Cummins is, I can barely hear the pump run and my bulkhead cover is not installed yet which will make it even more quiet.
For the most part, I’m really pleased with the system – and to make it even sweeter I also now have a rudder indicator so I can visually see what’s going on under the deck with the rudder. I never owned an autopilot in any of my boats before, so I’m looking forward to my first trip down in the keys.

[TomRay]

Sounds great. If this is your first autopilot, keep in mind the need to keep a lookout for floating objects and boat traffic. It's easy to just let the autopilot handle it for a half minute or more, but that's a very long time to go without looking. Things sneak up on you!

[journey on]

TomRay makes the most important point in this post.

The autopilot is only steering the boat. It's up to you, the human, to look out that the course being steered is the proper one. Especially in the San Juans, Gulf Islands, etc where there is a lot of floating stuff. Using the remote from the aft deck doesn't let you look forward to see crab/lobster pots, seaweed, logs, crossing boats, etc. The proper lookout is in the helm seat looking around. Just as on an airplane, you need to keep looking around and the autopilot helps you do that.

Don't get me wrong, I love autopilots, but they only steer the boat. You have to guide the boat.

When we were going up to Alaska on the sailboat, we'd have the autopilot on, I'd be on watch, a log would go by the boat on Judy's side, and she'd say " look at that, did you see it?" The only answer you could give is "of course, dear." You've got to keep your eyes out there.

Boris

[TomRay]

Yeah, I lie to my wife about stuff like that too, Boris.

Kidding! I only lie about chocolate.

[IdleUp]

I follow what you guys are saying - even when I let someone else at the helm, I'm still looking out for almost anything. I never take anything for granted. Like my model helicopters, you have to fly them 100% of the time!

Sundays my next target date to complete the adjustment's and a good shake down on some complicated routes.

[Dene]

Nice setup. I received a quote for an install on my linear steering trawler. $6000 including the unit. That's a big pill for this kid to swallow.

Question? Is there an old fashion device that holds the steering wheel straight? At 6 knots, my boat goes very straight, so little variance is needed at the wheel.

-Greg

[IdleUp]

[IdleUp]

Here's shot of the Raymarine SmartPilot S1000 SmartController, I simply used a screw on the windshield frame to mount the holder with one screw and some double stick tape. The second cradle is mounted in the cockpit area. Of course the remote can be also be used as a second helm station.

We've had a week of great weather here in VA and I've spent almost all the time trolling around on the forward and aft decks with the remote.

[TomRay]

Try not to go swimming while the boat is driving itself!