Repairing small drill holes in hull

siddfynch · Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 10:12 pm Post subject:

Thataway, thanks for the reply here, and on my heater question today over in the other thread. I'm looking forward to getting these holes filled.

Jazzmanic · Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 5:51 pm Post subject:

Dr. Bob et al,

So I'm getting ready to install a new transducer. I purchased a transom mounting board and want to be sure I'm understanding the above conversation.

It IS ok to use MarineTex to fill in the existing holes and the oversize holes for the mounting board screws? These filled holes would be below the waterline. I haven't mixed epoxy and am comfortable using MarineTex.

You crosscut the back of the board with a dremel tool and slather 5200 on the board to adhere to the transom gelcoat?

How many screws do you use to adhere the mounting board to the transom? 1, 2?

You dip the transucer mounting screws in 5200 before attaching to the transom board?

Is that it? Anything else to add?

thataway · Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:32 pm Post subject:

Mix the MarineTex according to instructions--There is a moderate tolerance of the ratio of hardner to epoxy. The MarineTex needs to be worked into the holes in the transom with a tooth pick or other thin piece of wood. We bought a box of 1000 popsicle sticks at the hobby shop a few years ago, and use these for mixing epoxy and small amounts of polyester resin. We cut these to the width we need for each project.

I put the 5200 on the back of the Starboard or other high density polyethylene board. I usually use two screws into the hull--with holes drilled out and epoxy filled. No sealant between the 5200 and the block of Starboard.

breausaw · Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:49 pm Post subject:

marco422 · Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:34 pm Post subject:

cemiii · Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 10:59 pm Post subject:

This is pretty crazy, but a year ago when I put on my transducer on a white piece of Starboard, (as suggested on this site) I found a spray paint at Wal-Mart, royal blue I think for plastic, that was pretty close to the gel coat color on the boat bottom (couple bucks). After installing the Starboard I masked it off, wiped it with acetone and spray painted it blue prior to the ad on.

Since I didn't sand it or anything, I assumed the paint would likely scratch and flake off pretty quickly. Well, it's been about a year and it's still pretty hard to see the starboard from any distance and the dang stuff's still adhering like it was made for starboard.

Your results may vary.

Jay, in that little area make sure your puck is as far from the keel as possible and let us know how that works out please.

Chris

Jazzmanic · Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 12:28 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys. One last question. Do I need to wait until the weather gets a little warmer to do the project? I really want to get it done by mid-March and the temps will still be in the 40's-50's.

eNORMous · Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 1:02 pm Post subject:

Amines (the constituents which provide the reactions in vinyl and polyester Rxns) are highly dependent on temperature. There should be statements on the containers indicating the optimal range of temperature conditions which result in best working conditions. I am not certain of every product's temperature conditions, but I strongly suggest remaining within those guidelines.

I suggest the air temperature (if at all possible), the hull, gel coat, etc, and the poly- or vinyl- ester materials you are working with are all at the same temperature if possible. Generally, this is 25C at MSL.

m2cw

siddfynch · Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 10:34 pm Post subject:

OK, I just got around to doing this. Backed out 14 screws from transom, including the ones that had held on the dastardly "Smart Tabs" that made the boat run like a Weeble-Wobble.

Screw holes in the transom above waterline (4 of them) were dry. Screw holes in transom below waterline, not so nice. I filled 'em all with Marine Tex.

A couple of comments:

1) It's damn hard to use an Allen wrench to undercut a small screw hole. My screws were all #12 or #10, and no Allen wrench of decent thickness would fit into teh hole cockeyed and then be rotated straight to be turned by a drill chuck. Did I miss something? I ended up cutting the short end of the wrench even shorter, but even that was tough.

2) Is there any kind of important difference between Marine Tex and JB Weld? Other than the 300% price difference? It looked like JB Weld...smelled like JB Weld....set up like JB Weld.....

Next up are the 25 roof holes. It's a non-core roof. Any reason I can't just use 5200 up there instead of the insanely difficult (and expensive) Marine Tex?

(If you can't tell by now, I'm not a huge fan of Marine Tex).

journey on · Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 10:50 pm Post subject:

Don't let Bob know, but I fill all boat holes with 5200. That stuff is so hard to use it's got to keep the water out. And since it's a putty/paste, it fills all the cracks and holes. Above and BELOW the waterline. There, Bob, I've now said it.

As to JBWeld, it's just a strong epoxy with aluminum filler. I saw it used to fix the head of a diesel in the South Pacific. The engines ran afterwards, just don't know if they made New Zealand. Great stuff, saved my aft section many times. Never used Marine Tex, but if it's just a filled epoxy, I'd prefer JB Weld. I know that stuff works in water, oil, etc. on fiberglas, magnesium, steel and wood. Now that you mention it, I used JB weld to plug a hole in Journey Ons cabin top. It's that little grey hole above the head, where that cabin top is only 1/2" thick, and I don't mean 9/16".

Unless you're trying to tell me that Marine Tex is cheaper than JB Weld. If so, disregard the above.

Boris

siddfynch · Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 10:51 pm Post subject:

OK, I just got around to doing this. Backed out 14 screws from transom, including the ones that had held on the dastardly "Smart Tabs" that made the boat run like a Weeble-Wobble.

Screw holes in the transom above waterline (4 of them) were dry. Screw holes in transom below waterline, not so nice. I filled 'em all with Marine Tex.

A couple of comments:

1) It's damn hard to use an Allen wrench to undercut a small screw hole. My screws were all #12 or #10, and no Allen wrench of decent thickness would fit into teh hole cockeyed and then be rotated straight to be turned by a drill chuck. Did I miss something? I ended up cutting the short end of the wrench even shorter, but even that was tough.

2) Is there any kind of important difference between Marine Tex and JB Weld? Other than the 300% price difference? It looked like JB Weld...smelled like JB Weld....set up like JB Weld.....

Next up are the 25 roof holes. It's a non-core roof. Any reason I can't just use 5200 up there instead of the insanely difficult (and expensive) Marine Tex?

(If you can't tell by now, I'm not a huge fan of Marine Tex).

McDory · Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 10:53 pm Post subject:

After I purchased my boat I removed all the hardware to drill out the coring and then epoxied. I used small thin finishing nails that I bent at 90 degrees to drill out the coring. The sharp point at the end of the nail does a nice job of removing the coring.

JT · Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 11:22 pm Post subject:

Off topic,
Mcdory,
There might be more appropriate forums to express your political leanings.
This is a boating forum??

Respectfully,
JT Thumbs Down

Jimbo · Posted: Sat May 09, 2009 12:03 am Post subject:

Siddfynch
I don't mean to hijack this topic but I just had a look at your photos and it looks like you are missing about 6" of rubrail rubber on the starboard side at the bow.
Is that the case?
If so, I have a 1981 classic and am missing that exact same amount in the same place.
Any idea where to get some more?
Tnx, Jimbo

siddfynch · Posted: Sat May 09, 2009 4:35 pm Post subject: