Full or Empty - Winterization

[tpbrady]

Matt,

Can you explain the stabilizer/fogging oil cocktail?

Tom

[petemos]

I always have stabilizer in the tanks, as I mix it in 5 gal with each fill up, so i'm assuming it going to cover me at end of season when i winterize the engines. I have made a fuel transfer system with a car electric fuel pump, 40 ft of gas line and an electrical connector that can plug into the 12 volt plug on the boat or the truck. I use it in the summer to transfer fuel from my truck or gas cans to the boat. "Less mess, no fuel spillage and no lugging fuel". Once I complete winterizing the engines, I just plug a female quick fuel connector onto the fuel pump line that connects to the male quick connector on the water separator, which is also where the 18hp kicker connects to. I then just suck all the fuel out of the tanks to my cars, and truck. It may take an hour depending on how much full I have left in the tanks. Doing this I’m also hoping I suck any crud that is left in the tanks, which should be caught by the fuel filter/separator. I put a new filter/separator in at the beginning of the season.

Jim

[breausaw]

This may go against the grain but I always keep my fuel tanks topped off, especially through the winter here in Alaska. This is the general consensus among a lot of boaters here. The reason is anytime the temperature fluctuates above and below freezing any exposed surface in a fuel tank is going to sweet or condensate some, but not much the relative humidly drops dramatically here during winter. I have never had any water in my separator so must be doing something right, maybe because there is no alcohol in Alaska gas. I have never used any type of gas stabilizer or fogger. I run all the gas out of the engine than drain what is remaining from the Carb bowls on my 06 Honda.

Pre season I truly believe in pouring 2 bottles of SeaFoam in each tank, and repeat this process mid season. I like to pump the gas out of the fuel line tell it runs clear before attaching it to the motor; the lines seem to break down some over the winter and the fuel gets dirty looking. I change the oil after the first trip because SeaFoam cleans so much gunk out the engine it really dirties the oil. I do basically the same with snow machines, motorcycles, all the other outboards I have, pressure washer, etc. Only time I ever had a problem was with my 15 year old snow blower last year, had to rebuild the Carb on it...and it’s a neglected beast that usually gets ridden hard and put away wet.

I would guess in wormer climates with higher humidity things would be different.


Jay

[1TUBERIDER]

[Da Nag]

One factor I never see when this comes up, that needs to be taken into account - where the boat is stored.

I know many of us (me included) keep our boats inside garages, where temperature and humidity swings are far more controlled. As such, I'm an empty tank proponent - condensation is not really an issue.

And, this is a timely subject - I just completed a nifty way to address this, with very little muss/fuss. I ordered up a Carter fuel pump - known in automotive circles for their quality and longevity. It comes with a bracket, and input/output nipples for 3/8" fuel line.

The pump is portable, with the bracket attached to a piece of wood. When in use, I set it down low between the tanks. I ran the IN line to a quick disconnect fitting that attaches to my Racor filter/separator, and the OUT line simply goes out my drain plug hole in the back of the boat, into a receptacle on the ground. Power is handled via aligator clips at the battery, with a switch inline to avoid sparks when connecting.

It's not super fast, probably around 2 gallons a minute...but works great.

[teflonmom]

I have always stored full. I use Starton and leave gas in the carbs.

It always started quickly in the spring. I use the same product for my gen set in my Roadtrek. It has helped the very funky carb and avoided expensive dealer work.

[breausaw]

Our boat fuel tanks are always full; we top them off after each trip. Right now we are sitting on the fence to whether we’ll make another trip; either way the boat is ready to mothball or ready to go.

Had to scrape frost of the car this morning, dang!

[smittypaddler]

I store with mostly empty tanks, but for a different reason. I tow my 22 to Florida from Wisconsin each winter and don't want to drag the extra weight of 40 gallons of gas in the boat.

[CAVU]

I agree with Da Nag about storage conditions. I must be the only person who has no plan. I store my boat for the winter with whatever fuel is in the tanks and don't worry about it. The winter conditions in Spokane are quite variable but the humidity is generally quite low summer and winter. I always use fuel stabilizer and run the engines dry and drain the carbs. I have done this with previous boats and with my C-Dory and have never had a fuel related issue. My opinion is that the volume of air in our small tanks whether 1/4 full or totally full is not enough to make much difference. Since the tanks are vented to the outside air I would guess that the fuel surface area is the only important issue and that changes very little with how much fuel is in the tank.

[Captains Cat]

Ken, I think that moisture can condense on the sides of the tank too. The emptier a tank is, the more of the sides of the tank are exposed, hence more condensation. That having been said, I try to fill my tanks, but don't fret about it much. The only problem I've ever had was getting a shot of water WITH the fuel, not condensation.

Charlie

[Fishhawk]

Wow, this thread just happened at the right time.
We returned south recently to find our boat in a world of hurt because nobody ever told us that you have to "SUMMERIZE" your boat.

We had followed northern Minnesota protocol and added a rich dose of Sea Foam to the gas, covered her up with a big blue tarp, staked her to the ground for hurricane wind protection, and basically walked away for the summer.

Well now, here is what happened (and we are still working on a complete recovery). South Alabama had a hell hot summer this year. The blue tarp suffered sun rot so that about a week before we returned the cabin was uncovered. The entire boat that has white gel coat was covered with black mildew. After a half day of pressure washing the mildew was history, she looked real good again. BUT, when we went for our first ride.............neither engine would start or even fire.

After several days of messin with the carbs and filter, I searched the site for help. C-Weed had posted back in 2008 about some hooch made by Berryman products B12 Chemtool. That and some premium gas, has we think right now, saved us from complete carb overhauls. Thank you C-Weed. Damn, this is such a great site.

Bottom line: Heat degrades ethanol gas way faster than cold.
We will never leave any gas in the carbs, lines, or filter, again for the summer. AND, I am going to check into Marc's suggestion of switching to PRI-G post haste. Thank you Marc. Damn, this is such a great site.

Don't know how many snowbirds leave their boats in the south for the summer, but we have learned a whole lot very recently and I hope we can spare a brat or two from sharing the same bad experience.

Dan

[Fishhawk]

O.K.,

We have the engines running now, barely. They will idle long enough to shift into gear and then will top out at only 4,000 rpm. Me thinks the high speed jets are still plugged up. There is one oz. per gallon of Berrymans in the gas (premium). Is there any chance that with a little time and daily running they will open up? Do any of you have any experience with unplugging high speed jets on Honda carbs without total disassembly? I have some good spray carb cleaner with the little spray tube. Trying to get out of this mess without a lot of cash outlay.

Dan

[drjohn71a]

Having spent hours of stress and pain trying to start various gas engine tools, gensets, chippers, and other neglected farm tools, I put 1 oz per 5 gallons of Sta-Bil in everything that takes gas except my main driver.

I also put Heet in them all at one bottle per 20 gallons. With a 450 milliamp float charger on the unused batteries, I've been able to start anything at any time for many years now.

About 10 years ago, we had a horrendous ice storm with trees down, electricity off and single digit temperatures. The stress and pain of trying to get the chainsaws, gensets, etc., going just about put me in my grave.

The last several ice storms, everything started, even the large Miller welder/generator (yes, I keep StaBil and Heet in it too!)

I do top off the tanks each Fall since I run the TomCat tanks half full most of the Summer time. I use the boat all year 'round, in ice and snow, and it has not even coughed nor sputtered for over 3 years now.

John

[Jeff Brigner]

When storing my boat in Alabama summers I have had problems with wasp building mud nests inside the engine where they can get sucked into the air intake. Just another thing to check for. You wouldn't believe where they will nest.

[Lucky Day]

The current issue of BoatUS "Seaworthy Magazine" has a section about Ethanol:

http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/october/

On the right side of the page click on the link: "More Information on Gasoline with Ethanol"

The section includes recommendations for empty vs. full for tanks that are holding E-10. Interesting articles. They voted for tanks full . . .