My New Inflatable Needs a Motor, But Which One ?

[Jazzmanic]

Thanks Larry, I'll do the same and measure before doing any unnecessary cutting.

Peter

[Larry H]

Warren,

Doh, I didn't follow the links far enough to see the 'donut' style.

For your dink, I would measure your transom height with you in the boat and the boat in the water.

I had a 'donut' dingy and the motor thrust tried to 'bend' the back of the boat down, lowering the powerhead of the motor closer to the water.

You might want to try the boat with the oars first and perhaps borrow a motor for 'motor trials'. Unless the dingy will plane, the lightest, smallest, motor will probably give the best results.

Maybe 'motor & dingy trials' could be a part of our gatherings.

I would promote dingy races, but Mike(Alaskgun) would win hands down.

[Doryman]

[AnchortownJim]

Warren,

I have an Alaska Series dingy, the 220 model and use a Honda 2 HP on it. My Honda is the short shaft model with clutch and it works very well with two of us onboard. It won't plane, but it sure beats rowing against a wind.

If I remember correctly, the top of the transom to the bottom of dingy measured 17 inches and I ended up cutting 2 inches off the top of the transom to lower the Honda and keep the cavitation plate in the water. My transom was laminated plywood that was easy to remove from the bracket and cut on the table saw. I did reseal the cut edge of the transom.

This setup works great for me. The dingy is light and easy to toss on the roof and the Honda 2 HP is easy to put on and take off. Love that inflatable floor in our cold Alaskan waters. Hope this helps you out.

Jim

[Doryman]

Thanks, AnchortownJim. Very encouraging!

Warren

[Adeline]

Thanks for all the thoughtful replies. It seems that there are two factors that need to be weighed against each other. The advantage of an air-cooled outboard(only Honda)-VS-more capable outboards that are water-cooled. I've found some used 2-stroke motors that are similar in weight(i.e. 30#), offer more horsepower, and cost just $300-$400. OMC offered various 3-4 h.p. motors from the 80s forward. Yamaha and Suzuki likewise. Tohatsu/Nissan made a 2-cycle 3.5hp motor through '06 that weighed just 29# and offered forward/neutral shifting. http://www.marine-outboards.com/Tohatsu_Outboards_Boat_Motors_Pages/Tohatsu_Marine_3_5_HP_Outboard_Boat_Motor.htmThis has since been replaced by a 4-stroke version that weighs 41#. http://www.marine-outboards.com/Tohatsu_Outboards_Boat_Motors_Pages/Tohatsu_Marine_3_5_HP_4_stroke_Outboard_Boat_Motor.htmThey also make all Mercury motors under 30 horsepower. If I went new I could get a 4-cycle Tohatsu 3.5 for about $850.00 delivered to my door. That gets me nearly twice the power for $100 less than the Honda. Since the used Hondas are so rare and command such a high price I only compare them to new alternatives. If I should embrace water-cooling then I have many, many more options in the used market. So there I am. I know that storing a salted motor is destructive but I COULD view it as "disposable", accept the destruction, and plan on replacing it when needed. $300-$400 for a capable, used, disposable motor or $950 for a less capable, new, motor that will probably outlive me. NOW what do you all think ???

[Chris Bulovsky]

Saw this in WM flier.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallpartial&keyword=torqeedo&Ntt=torqeedo&N=0&y=0&x=0&storeId=10001&Ntk=All_2&ddkey=SiteSearch

Something to look at.

Chris Bulovsky

[Forty Two]

I have an Alaska Series inflatable 270.

I have been thinking about getting an electric trolling motor - $200 - $500 depending on model, along with a deep-cycle battery.

Any pros or cons?

That Torqeedo looks neat, but is pretty pricey.

[thataway]

I use a 42 lb thrust salt water series trolling motor on a 12 foot aluminum skiff. I use two Golf Cart batteries (440 amp hours)--and have about 3 hours of good running--@ 3-4 knots. The cautions for underpowering outboards in winds, almost doubles for electric trolling motors. As long as you can use the dinghy in calm water, can live with the very restricted amount of power which you will have in a small AGM battery and have a good way of recharging the battery it will work. The AGM battery is not cheap--and you will probably have from 35 (garden tractor battery) to a group 27 (100 amp hours).

I have yet to have a dinghy outboard either wear out, corrode out, or salt up. I have usually sold the boat/ dinghy before this happened. I have owned some of these dinghy motors up to 10 years--where 4 out of that time was full time cruising, and two to three times a day use of the motor. --that is a lot of use/abuse--where the motor gave excellent service. Sure the impellor and spark plug had to be changed every couple of years. I have owned a couple of the rebadged Tohtsu 2 cycle 3.5 hp motors and they have been excellent--I own one currently.

[journey on]

Pete, I had an Avon dingy (as a matter of fact still do,) about the size of your Achilles. I got an OMC 3 hp (made by OMC.) It was a twin, with F-R. Lovely motor. Took it everywhere, So Pac, Alaska, back East. Great motor.

The problem was, that it was underpowered for the dingy. It would just plane with one parson on board. And your Achilles planes just great. Finally got an OMC 6 hp. It was just what that dingy needed. Don't get a small motor, because there will be places you will want the speed of a larger motor. And if'n you get a small motor (<5 hp, ) it'll be too late, cause OB motors aren't cheap.

By the, way, the Avon got old and I got an Achilles. It seems to be a great dingy, though we'll see after 10 years. One great advantage is that it's made of Hypalon, which is important for us'n in the South, mabe not as important for you. Comfortable, dry, fairly light. Just get a motor that will plane it with 2-3 people on board.

The Southern Boris

[Larry H]

About older 2 stroke motors in salt.

I bought a 2 hp Evinrude in 1979, ran it hard in dingy service in salt water, I sold the 79(still a running motor) in 84, when I bought a new 1984 Johnson 2 hp(same motor). I used the 84 till I overheated it bad in 2004.

This long time service was not repair free. I had to replace the water pumps, ignition points, spark plugs, do several carb overhauls, and replace some small metal parts which were not ss steel, and clean, sand and repaint. Being in the o/b repair business, this wasn't too difficult or expensive.

I think these small 2-stroke motors can give good service if several things are attended to.

Carefully mix good quality 2-stroke oil with the gas at the correct ratio. Flush the motor by running in fresh water periodically. Clean, sand, and repaint any corrosion. Change the impeller and gear oil every couple of years.

Run the carb dry after use and use storage fogging oil before storage.

Don't turn the motor upside down as water can run into the cylinder.

When buying a used motor, get the seller to demonstrate that the motor runs(in water), and doesn't overheat. Inspect the paint, a motor which has been overheated will show paint burn, or discoloration on the cylinder head or block. Most outboard dealers have a test tank and can demonstrate a motor. Look for obvious signs of abuse.

With the motor clamped onto a stand, and the throttle in the stop position, slowly pull out the starter rope. The motor should have definite compression pulses and the rope should not be badly frayed. Stay clear of the prop as the motor could fire.

Motors which are hard to start usually have been frantically pull started till the rope is frayed or broken.

The fact that a 2-stroke motor has oil mixed into the gas means that the internal parts(the crank, rod, piston, rings, and cylinder walls) have been coated with fresh oil every time they are run. This prevents internal rust and corrosion.

So if it looks clean, starts and runs smoothly and appears well taken care of, you could get good service from a used motor.

I would stay with the known brands... Johnson, Evinrude, Tohatsu, Suzuki, Nissan, Honda and stay away from orphans and oddballs. Air cooled motors tend to corrode in salt water(maybe excepting Honda-I have no experience with air cooled Hondas). You should have access to a dealer of your brand for parts and advise.

Good luck in your motor hunt.

[thataway]

One thing which we do with our two strokes is to run the gas out of the fuel line and carburator on shut down. This prevents varnish build up in the carburator.

I used to think that the little 2 stroke from OMC were good, but in the last few years I have gone with the single piston higher hp engines.

[Island Ranger]

I stopped by a dealer (Performance Marine) at the Everett Boat show Friday, and looked at the 30 pound, water cooled, 4 cycle 2.5 hp Suzuki. Holds 1 liter of fuel. He quoted $695, but I'm not sure if that was a boat show special or regualr price. I forgot to ask. I thought it looked pretty good - and will probably get one for our dinghy.

[Doryman]

FWIW, my salesman at Master Marine (which sells both Suzuki and Yamaha 2.5s) said that he much preferred the Yamaha. I only asked him about the Yamaha, and he volunteered the info about the Suzuki. Of course, the Yamaha is $200 more expensive!

Warren

[Adeline]

I'm still struggling with this decision. One thing I'm certain of is that 40# is the absolute most I'll consider. New candidates are the Tohatsu 3.5(41#), Honda 2(28#), Yamaha 2.5(37#), and Suzuki 2.5(30#). Johnson offers a rebadged Suzuki http://www.brp.com/en-US/Products/Johnson/Showroom/ProductSpecs.htm?productID=J2_5 I found the little 'Zuke online for only $600. It has F/N and a twist-grip throttle. The Suzuki website actually shows one planing(I think ?) a small Achilles. http://www.c-brats.com/albums/album340/2_5_01.sized.jpgIf I go with a new motor it'll probably be this one. I'm also looking at a couple of used motors. A '77 Johnson 4 twin cylinder that is like new for under $400. And a 2000 Johnson 2 (I think) that was used once and looks showroom new. Under $350. Two things that I don't like about these motors are that the throttle is on the motor housing and they are direct drive. No neutral. Also, the 4 horse requires a separate tank. I've looked at so many motors that my brain is stuck and my head hurts. Analysis paralysis. Please chime in with your thoughts.