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John S
Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 24 Tomcat
Vessel Name: TomCat
Photos: TomCat
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 Posted: Wed May 06, 2020 3:19 pm Post subject: Re: Thru Hull |
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| ricka wrote: | Hi John,
If interested Groco has backing blocks which are made out of a kind of porous fiber so they soak up epoxy real well and they have the nut inserts to fit many bronze flanges. I just posted the pics of my install in my album.
Rick |
Hey Rick went thru all your pics, very nice clean set up!
I went to the Groco site and the backing plates look great but are pretty specific to the Groco thru hull. It would be real interesting to know what that material is. I was thinking about using starboard but then there is the problem that 5200 doesn’t like to stick to it.
John
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John
2000 TomCat 24
BF90 Hondas
www.AlaskaAdventureJournal.com |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20860
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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| Posted: Wed May 06, 2020 10:32 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | I added two layers of 1708 at the location do you think that might be sufficient or should I still add some other type of blocking? |
It would probably be fine. I am a bit old school, and might go a little more, but the whole idea is to prevent flex or any issues with the mount. No one should be stepping down there!
Rick, nice looking setup.
_________________
Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL |
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John S
Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 24 Tomcat
Vessel Name: TomCat
Photos: TomCat
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| Posted: Wed May 06, 2020 11:11 pm Post subject: |
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| thataway wrote: | | Quote: | | I added two layers of 1708 at the location do you think that might be sufficient or should I still add some other type of blocking? |
It would probably be fine. I am a bit old school, and might go a little more, but the whole idea is to prevent flex or any issues with the mount. No one should be stepping down there!
Rick, nice looking setup. |
Thanks Bob, I needed the extra nudge, so it got two additional layers of 1708 and I just finished making a fiberglass backing plate out of 1/4” material. That ought to do it. I’m just a little overwhelmed right now, boat project wise and was hoping to do it a little easier, but more importantly I want it right.
With my tanks out I’m finally getting on some wet core too, as you can see if you go to my pictures.
Weather is beautiful in AK, it’s time to go fishing and the fuel tanks have shipped.
Thanks,
John |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20860
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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| Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 1:33 pm Post subject: |
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| 4 layers should be great! It looks as if you have had water intrusion from both window frames and the anchor locker. I have seen water migrate some distance from a leak--fortunately most of the windows in our boats are not into cored material- only the aft cabin bulkheads |
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ricka
Joined: 05 May 2019
Posts: 50
City/Region: Yreka
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2020
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Photos: ricka
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| Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 1:56 pm Post subject: |
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John and Bob
Thanks for the nice comments on my install, I to like to do projects once the right way, unfortunately doesn't always work out that way! I have learned a lot just from all the great boaters on this website. Most everyone seems to be inclined to be DYI here.
I am not sure what the backing plate material was but it did seem to soak up the epoxy a bit.
We are very anxious to get the boat completely set up so we can do a trip up your way John.
Still need to buy and install Wallis stove/heater and make a decision on improving the stock house battery set up.
Doing my 20hr oil/gear lube change this weekend.
Rick
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previuos vessels
1976 ORION TRIHULL 15
1984 BOSTON WHALER 17 MONTAUK
1996 BOSTON WHALER 21 CONQUEST
2006 BOSTON WHALER 17 MONTAUK |
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John S
Joined: 06 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
City/Region: Sterling
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 24 Tomcat
Vessel Name: TomCat
Photos: TomCat
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| Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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| thataway wrote: | | 4 layers should be great! It looks as if you have had water intrusion from both window frames and the anchor locker. I have seen water migrate some distance from a leak--fortunately most of the windows in our boats are not into cored material- only the aft cabin bulkheads |
Hey Bob I bought one of those fancy nondestructive moisture meters so I can track the water intrusion sources pretty easily.
That rear bulkhead with the door all water came up from where it attached to the floor. We had resealed that attach point over and over, but at times water would come in from the rear deck into the cabin underneath and balsa we couldn’t see was exposed. It is dry near the windows.
You are spot on for the anchor line locker source. I previously paid somebody to go into the anchor locker to dig out the wet core there. The water was coming from the drain hole and and winch eye. The part I’m working on now is where the water wicked further down below into the tunnel and then froze in winter and popped through the glass inside.
So far all of the interior laminate seems to be 1/8“, two layers of 1708, which I believe counts as four, layers gets me the same thickness.
If I had a new tomcat, (hint, hint) I would pull the winch point, remove the anchor drain clamshell cover and do the epoxy re-bed on all core intrusions in this area! Some of that core was so wet and rotten it wasn’t even attached to the laminate anymore.
I hadn’t mentioned previously, but we already had to replace ALL the bottom core bow to stern in both sides. Yes, even under the head. $25,000 for that job. That’s a bigger story than I have time for now😀 |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20860
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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| Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 4:30 pm Post subject: |
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1708( Stitched roving bundles @ 45*) is used instead of the old 18 oz woven roving at 90*. Properly used it is stronger for the same weight. We used to use 24oz woven roving with layers of mat between and over/under.
I am a little surprised at only 1/8" thick on bottom and top of the bottom of the hull, I would have liked to see about 1/4" thick on the bottom, and then the 1/8" on the inside. The 1/8 x core x 1/8 is stiff enough (if nothing breaks down, but there is considerably less impact resistance.
Amazing with the entire bottom--screw holes from fastening tanks and bilge pumps??? freezings and thaw cycles are deadly for a cored boat once it has water intrusion into the core.
Had you fully pulled the door, and then made an epoxy/fiberglass barrier under the sill? Again, I think that the freeze thaw cycles force the Delam,and then more moisture up the side of the aft bulkhead.
I agree with your assessment of the anchor locker/bow eye. These areas should have been solid laminate to begin with.
Have you been climbing down into the hulls? A fat man could not do that! I am not even sure I could (not really skinny any more, but at "ideal weight").
Thanks for the insights into the serious issues, you have solved! |
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