Trailer brakes in salt water service

[Micahbigsur@msn.com]

I think S.S. calipers and rugged iron disks seem like a good combo as long as you rinse them everytime.

[localboy]

Anyone know a source for SS brake lines with SS fittings? Did a quick search on-line and they appear non-existent. Having SS lines with steel fittings is useless, IMO. The fittings are the weak link. [/u][/b]

[Peter & Judy]

Last summer on Vancouver Island I tried to wash the brakes down after every saltwater launch. Only at Ladysmith did I not have a hose available, so I used the two weed spray jugs that I had brought with me. The first spray was with fresh water and the second was with Salt-Away. I did also seek a fresh water boat ramp at Sproat Lake Provincial Park which is near Judy's brothers home in Port Alberni. Great, Free ramp. We launched for a little fresh water cleanup after every salt water cruise, which did a great job of flushing the whole trailer and the fresh water cruise flushed the motors and washed the salt off the boat. I will try to find a similar alternative whenever I cruise in salt water in the future.

[journey on]

These people make SS lines with SS nuts. I had them make a set for Journey On's trailer. They aren't cheap and they are in SoCal. Also make flexible SS braided lines. I took the lines in and they replicated them. Call them and ask if they know of a place in Wa. Never knew that they make SS lines with plain nuts.

Crown Performance Products
2440 La Mirada Dr.
Vista, CA 92081
Phone: (760) 599-0090
Fax: (760) 599-0070
sales@crownperformance.com

My opinion is that one gets the correct brake for each situation. That means stopping the rig AND dunking it in salt water. I don't need something to break at the wrong moment because it wasn't meant for salt water and I didn't know it or catch it. A cost tradeoff on the trailer brakes isn't worth it.

Boris

[localboy]

Thanks, Boris. I'll contact them.

Yep, my lines look fine. The fittings where they enter the brass T's or 90's are rusted solid. Might as well be MIG welded together, they ain't coming apart.

[hardee]

I have been working on adding Kodiak SS Discs to the other axel on my Pacific Tandem trailer and this has become a major process. I did not want to have just "regular rubber brake lines" so was trying to get thermoform (plastic that won't mind getting dunked in Salt water.) No joy there. So now, looking at Stainless. Can't believe that someone would do stainless lines and then use regular rustable steel for connections. So, I have the brake/truck shop that is going to do the work checking with Crown Performance Products, to see if I can get SS lines and SS connectors from them.

What are you using for lines? and how often are you having to replace them? In salt water?

Glad to find this and Boris, Thank you for that lead.

Harvey
SleepyC

[localboy]

Harvey, I had no luck locating all S/S lines with S/S fittings. I did not contact the noted company, however.

I ended up using a kit I purchased from one of the trailer parts suppliers. It had all five S/S lines, rubber hoses etc. I added a couple of brass T fittings and one extra rubber line from the actuator to the long hard line.

The steel fittings are the weak link. I covered them in a gooey, sticky blue marine grease using a small brush. They get dirty, but who cares.

[hardee]

Thanks Mark. When I lowered the bunks on my trailer I used lanolin on the bolts, threads and nuts. I have re-done that a few times to keep them rust free, even though they are stainless or galvanized.

Harvey
SleepyC

[hardee]

OK, here is the kicker. NO MATTER IF I order the thermaform (plastic, non rusting brake lines, the Stainless formed or braided lines or the standard (Ususal) black rubber lines, there is a weak spot in the system.

They all use standard steel connecters ---> Those WILL rust so , , , ,

What's a guy to do. SO , , , , Not being a mechanic I don't have the complications of thinking inside the mechanic box so this may be either a workable, practical, usable solution or just a bunch of sailboat gas in a blue sky.

How about doing what the electricians do to prevent moisture and corrosion. before putting the union or junctions together, slide a couple of lengths of shrink wrap on the brake line. Then, after they are together, and checked for leaks with pressure, put the short tube over the union, shrink it, then out a longer one over that and shrink it down onto the tube overlapping the short one on each end.

OK, so I said I'm not a mechanic. So, I need to know is that something that could work to keep the joints from rusting solid.

Come on and let me know. I want to get this job done, and done right, so that it will last. If there is something I am not seeing or that needs to be added I'm good with that. I'm OK with going for the stainless lines IF we can keep the joints from rusting into solid before they rust through.

Harvey
SleepyC

[Salmon Fisher]

When I replaced my brake lines, I used the rubber ones that come with brass fittings.


https://www.kodiaktrailerbrakes.com/Replacement-Brake-Hoses_c_696.html

On another note, my brakes have been locking up, 1-3 of them, when driving to retrieve the boat at the ramp. I have gotten good at stopping, backing up and driving forward, repeating as necessary until all wheels turn freely.

Am I correct to assume it is time to install new backing plates and then I'll be good to go?

Thanks!

[localboy]

Patrick, they are "binding" somewhere. If it's not all 4 then it's not the reverse lock out. I'd say rust is probably to blame. It's not the backing plates; trailer brakes don't have backing plates, which are usually found on older cars/trucks to keep debris from damaging the rotors. Most modern vehicles don't have the either.

The pistons in the caliper are not moving freely so the pads are putting pressure on the rotors. I've had them "break free", as you describe. (I now even use Salt Away in a pump garden sprayer to rinse them after launching the boat)

I've also had them bind and create heat while towing; heat so bad it smells like something is burning. It is. One year it forced us to cancel attending the FHGT as one wheel was binding up and would eventually catch fire or destroy the tire. The caliper was rusted up so bad nothing would move.

The only way to find out how bad it is, is to crawl under there and look. Even if the pads have lots of "meat" it doesn't mean they are not binding. Eventually, the pads will wear away, you'll warp the rotors due to overheating etc. Salt water and brakes do not play well with each other. We are on our third set in 12 years. It may mean rebuilding the calipers or replacing the entire unit, dependent on how trashed they are. Look in my album and you'll see examples of how bad...how much damage rust can do, to brakes.

https://www.akebono-brake.com/english/product_technology/product/automotive/disc/

[Salmon Fisher]

Thanks Mark for the info. I should have said I have drum brakes.

When I got home from crabbing Anacortes today, which was great, steam came off two of the wheels when I was rinsing down.

I already have parts coming from etrailer, 4 new trailer brake assemblies along with new bearings for each wheel. I plan to install a washdown system, too.

Will be a messy, but necessary job probably good for years to come as long I wash down regularly.

[hardee]

[localboy]

Ah. Probably the wheel cylinders are not moving. The push the shoes out.

[bobjarrard]

#1 have the trailer bunks modified for a sling lift
#2 Find a sling lift/launch facility
#3 Repeat as needed in both directions - In and Out (one of Jim's and his daughter's favorites - speaking of burgers)
I know:
-- Some folks have no lift/sling available
-- At $25-50 each way a Frequent Dunker will not like this system
So: Order a full set of parts when you buy the trailer and store them high on the trailer near the winch - keep all the tools/materials you need with you.
Gottta love being a C-BRAT
Bob Jarrard