Trailer tire wear/alignment, etc. questions.

Sunbeam · Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 8:53 pm Post subject:

Hi Rob,
I hoped for that when I bought the trailer, because Magic Tilt made the same frame in a 14" tire model. I actually bought a 14" tire on a rim (because even though people told me it wouldn't work, I had to see for myself). The problem is that they won't fit, physically. The springs are not long enough, the fenders aren't large enough, and the "carriage" that the springs ride on is too short.

Magic Tilt does sell all the parts to convert, but it would be quite expensive. At that point I'd probably get a new trailer. And except for the aggravation buying tires, the 13-ers are within specs for my load, and the trailer tows beautifully, so it seems like kind of a waste.

Of course if I did ever buy a new trailer, then I'd get 14" wheels from the get-go.

thataway · Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:27 pm Post subject:

There was a thread I started a few years back because of excessive wear after about 6,000 miles. Tandem axle C Dory 25 trailer--may have been marginal in weight capacity. I switched to radial tires, put on a weight distribution hitch, and made sure that the trailer was absolutely level. The problem was solved--and the boat was sold with about 15,000 more miles on the trailer--and little wear.

The "new" C Dory trailer from last year, had the new tires/new rim for $70 a wheell. I don't remember the age of the tires, but I believe that they were less than a year old. There is more wear on the right rear tire, than on other tires. In the future, I will make sure that the trailer is level, and will rotate the tires (Which I suggest that you do). I will also buy radial tires next time around. There is no reason to change out 3.5 year old tires, unless there is some defect in the tires. 5 to 6 years is the usual replacement age for large RV's. Trailer tires, if show bad side wall checking, or deterioration.

Last year, I got new RV tires thru the Mechlin program, and they were about 3 weeks old.

bcassal · Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:47 pm Post subject:

I have had similar issues with my EZloader tandem trailer. I have had similar edge wear and have had no satisfaction from trailer and/or alignments shops. They are befuddled when asked about an alignment. As I understand there is no camber adjustment.
I talked with EZloader about it and they say the axles must be equidistant from the rear corners of the trailer frame. Equidistant from the ball seems more intuitive.
I have 3/16 inch difference in the distance between the axles measured at the hubs. They tell me I either have a bent axle (torsion $600) or it (hopefully) has been knocked out of position. I certainly have crashed a curb or two over the years.
I have been meaning to rehab this trailer for some months now. I have purchased Kodiak disc brakes and a new actuator as well all the other brake parts, but this project is on indefinite hold as I am out of commission for awhile. Once I have the boat off the trailer and wheels off, I think the axle situation will become obvious.
I'll be following this thread and greatly interested in see what developed.

Bruce
Carpy

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Sunbeam · Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 10:22 pm Post subject:

Interesting info, all. The threads really are so much more useful and interesting when more people chip in!

I do have radials, and tow with the trailer completely level (yes, I obsessed Very Happy

). So I'm good there. Sounds like the wear pattern is not completely abnormal (or at least, I'm not the only one with it).

I had this vague idea maybe I should not rotate the radials, but I should look that up, as it now seems like a good idea.

I think it was Jim B here (?) who said that the service people he'd been talking to (these were people who came to help him out when he had trailer tire failures, not people selling tires) said that with the (lack of) quality of trailer tires, "three years was the new six years."

So between that, the wear on the one tire, and the fact that I would like a set of Load Range D's (already converted my spare, but still have C's on the main wheels).... new tires sounded good. On the other hand, I can always use the money for other boat things!

Of course now I'm not sure if I would want to keep trailering on that one tire with the edge wear....

This thread now has me wanting to rush over to the boat and measure

I'll try to hold off until tomorrow.

Sunbeam

PS: Carpy, I have never had any trailer brakes but the Kodiaks, but I have been very happy with them. One thing I did was remove the Chinese-made bearings from the kit and take them to a bearing house and get "Made in USA" Timken bearings. I kept the others as spares.

(Not that any country can't make good or bad stuff, but I find a lot of metal and that sort of thing that comes from China does not have good quality control.)

Robert H. Wilkinson · Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 10:08 pm Post subject:

Sunbeam · Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 12:25 pm Post subject:

Thanks for refreshing my memory on radials/rotating.

I did some measuring yesterday, although what I found is that things are close enough (and it's imprecise enough using a tape measure solo) that I'm going to need to use something like a very non-stretchy string or maybe a long extension cord or something. I clamped the tape measure to the point where the trailer "V" comes together in the front and from that things look roughly similar. By which I mean I think (but can't be sure) nothing is out more than say, 1/2". Of course maybe these things go by tenths of an inch... I don't know. Although trailers just don't seem that precise to me.

I measured from this forward point to all four axle points at the frame, from one axle to another, and from the rear axle to the rear of the frame. Conclusion from that was that it would be a lot easier without the boat on it (but then maybe it changes with the boat's weight on it, so probably better this way), and that I need to do it again with something other than a tape measure, and hopefully with an assistant too. I'd also like to get an "X" between the four axle/tire points to see how "square" that is.

Right now I'm not sure what my summer boating plans might be, but I will definitely get new tires before any trailering trip of consequence. Worrying about something like that (when I could have done something about it) takes the fun out of it for me. And I wanted to get the Load Range D tires anyway (already have one of those on the spare, but was waiting to replace the main tires before changing them all over).

On the other hand, if I don't go on a long-distance trailering mission this summer, then I might as well not have new tires just sitting around aging while the boat isn't moving. Plus I couldn't find any "not already old date code" tires in the type I want right now. Maybe they'll make some more in time. After looking over the "bad" one more closely yesterday, it's definitely "wrongly" worn, but there is still actually tread there, so I'm not totally immobile for short jaunts.

When I get a chance to take better measurements I'll post back again. On the other hand, with new tires and perhaps rotating them at 10k or so, I could probably go another 17,000 miles, so things aren't too bad as is. Still be interesting to know why though.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions.