Bennett Trim Tab Installation

[rcwass]

I have a 1990 22' Cruiser that needs trim tabs bad. My question is: Do I have to remove my twin 18 Gallon fuel tanks to intall these trim tabs? Also, I have a 15HP Kicker mounted to the transom on the Starboard side of the main 70 HP. Does anyone have a recommended Trim Tab size that would be best for me? I'm tired of running with a Starboard list and my wife refuses the gain weight to counter balance the boat.
Thanks,
Dick

[Sneaks]

I installed Trimmaster 12 X 9 tabs and after using them for a bit I think the 12 X 12 would be overkill though maybe a kicker might require the bigger ones. (Trimmaster offered the larger size at no extra cost but I turned them down.) Da Nag arranged a "C-Dory Special" for $300 and they were still accepting it at the time.

I did not remove the tanks or do anything unusual in regard to location even though the Jenny B has a swim step. It did take a little advance planning and a trip to Home Depot for two brass elbows, two 3" and two 8" brass pipe extensions . Very difficult to 'splain but easy to do. Basically, the upper cylinder mount requires 5 holes in the transom; 4 screw pilot holes and a larger hole for the brass hydraulic line. Suck it in and drill 'em all.

Start by making an "L" with the pipe extensions and the elbows. At the free end of the 8" pipe, connect a length of the flexible hydraulic line, make sure everything is tight, then reach behind the tank and slip the short end through the larger hole. (be sure to plug the pipe so nothing gets into it while passing the pipe through the transom).

While holding the pipe assembly firmly against the inner transom, get spousal unit to clear the plug and thread the pipe into the cylinder by rotating the cylinder instead of the pipe. Once started, it's not hard to fully tighten the joint, align the cylinder mount to the screw holes and mount the upper end as well as making sure the extensions on the inner transom face the center of the boat by using vicegrips behind the tank to aid in alignment.

Couple of caveats and tips:

Do not use teflon tape/paste on the pipe connections. Trimmaster sez you're better off not using anything.

Drilling the hole for the transom pipe is critical. It must be absolutely perpendicular to the transom face. Fortunately, I have a jig for that purpose.

Covering the exposed pipe while passing it through the transom isn't easy because clearances are small. I used one wrap of electrical tape.

If there isn't enough clearance between your transom and tank to pass the fully assembled pipe through from the inside, simply pass the short extention through from the outside and thread it into the elbow. (requires a patient spouse and possibly dinner out.) and don't connect the cylinder until the brass pipes are fully tightened!

Here's a shot of the mount on the swim step.



Don

[patrick and linda]

hi don, and all other c-dory friends,
i'm new to the c-dory family. i have a 2003 22' just purchased. during the sea trail i noticed the boat operated in a bow up position. looks like i'll be installing trim tabs, with that in mind, i read your post and saw the picture you submitted. nice job!
i'm considering installing the lenco electric trimtabs. 9" x 12". they are currently displayed in the "hamilton marine" catalog. if you're not familiar with these guys, call 800.639.2715 and order a catalog. they offer a boat builders discount that's better than the west marine new boat discount, there's another big savings, over and beyond west marine's, but since this is an open forum, i'd rather not say exactly what that is.
any thoughts on the electric tabs would be greatly appreciated. also you can view this item at www.hamiltonmarine.com
i'm not endorsing this company, just interested in getting the best deal for products. i'm also installing radar arch, that is, as soon as, dave from railmakers gets it built, and radar, spotlight, bilge pump aft, shore power,30 amp. circuit breaker and box, (home depot $41.00) as well as a bench seat aft. not sure about buying a windlass, any thoughts on that is appreciated.
what's the deal on air conditioning? has anyone install a system, maybe roof mounted, much like the rv's have?
well, thanks to anyone responding to my post.

[Sneaks]

[Papillon]

capt. patrick campbell wrote:

[patrick and linda]

thanks don and mike,
i'll check out the lenco's and as for dale hollow, have some great friends there, will visit when possible, but my wife and i have a lake home on fishing creek, lake cumberland. we have a 24' trophy at lees ford marina. love cumberland for many reasons, closer to ohio, has great shopping and getting better restaurants all the time, many places now serve alcohol and lake front property values are increasing at/or about 10% per year. if you haven't been there in awhile, you'd probably not recognize it now.
regarding the lenco trim tabs, sure did look like an easy install job!
any suggestion on where i would pick up additional info?
later, i must be back to work, the natives are getting restless.
pat

[Yellowstone]

Dick - Sneaks has some really good info for you to consider. I have installed two sets of Bennett tabs on a 22[ cruiser, one 12x12 (overkill) and the other 9x12. I removed the tanks - 18 gallon capacity - (empty) because (1) I'm not a contortionist, (2) I'm solo most of the time working on the boat, and (3) checking for leaks at the inside transom is easier. Also by all means get the 3"pipes from Bennett (free) so your connection to the lines are not buried in the transom hole You don't have to remove the filler hose to jockey the tanks around. The filler hoses are difficult to remove and reinstall. The older Bennett cylinders were so long the hole for the hydraulic lines almost cut into the bottom of the well. Today's models are shorter. Regarding brands, I very biased toward Bennett. They have the best technical service system around and will send you the correct stuff if your kit doesn't come with it. Go on e-bay and get your tabs at reduced prices. Hydraulic tabs installed properly are as trouble free as they can be. I believe I was one of the first ones to install Bennett taps on a 22'cruiser, and have no regrets. Good luck.
John

[Captains Cat]

Hey Capt. Pat, make sure your bow up CD has the engine(s) set correctly. There's several positions it/they could be in which, if not set right could cause the bow to be up when on plane.

Charlie

[C-Sick]

Bennett is so great about being will to provide free of charge
1.) the 90 degree elbow fittings,
2.) 3" through hull nipple and
3 a new top piece for the actuators that are threaded for the nipple fitting

I have a 2003 22ft Cruiser

The question I have is can one successfully negotiate the space between the fuel cells (tanks) and the transom with the original equipment or should I use the free 90 degree elbow kit?

Please chime in because I know from other threads both options have been tried.

[Sneaks]

Trimmaster also has a free kit to run the line externally over to where the tanks aren't, but I chose not to use it. Did get it and the extra fittings though "just in case".

Dunno how high up the Bennett actuators go. The transom, of course, slopes away from the tank so there's more room to maneuver the closer to the tank top ya get.

If I remember, a 3" length will get you through the transom with room for an elbow and at least 1 1/2" worth of breathing room at the level mine is at.

A smaller, less rotund person with fewer age spots than I have will find the job pretty easy.

Don

[jimandlaurie]

I can't readily remember ,but I do know that when I put Bennett's on the old Laurna Jo, that it went pretty smoothly.
I think the only thing that had me was where I put the Pump. I mounted it under the aft dinnette seat, so had to extend the hydraulic lines. I wouldv'e mounted in the lazerette if I had to do it again.

2 things though:1. I did it myself so anyone can do it I think.
2. I wouldn't have a boat without Trimtabs.
They made all the difference in the world ,improving the ride,stability, and easier cruising on the our 22.

[rcwass]

I've answered my own question. There is enough room behind my fuel tanks but it is tight. I purchased Bennett M120 Sports Tabs. I found that the supplied actuators were slightly too long. The hydraulic line hole, 3/4", was very close to the underside of the motor well and my fuel lines were attached along that line. I contacted Bennett and they sent me two of the upper actuator mounts, which made the attachment point 1" lower, free of charge and within a couple days. These shorter mounts don't change the overall travel of the trim tabs once installed. I mounted my trim tabs but found little room for the hydraulic pump since I have twin batteries mounted in the stern starboard compartment. The best place to mount the trim tab hydraulic pump is under the sink on the inside of the bulkhead however the supplied hydraulic lines aren't long enough. I again contacted Bennett and they're sending me 30' of hydraulic tubing to connect my pump. They don't recommend splicing the hydraulic lines and said the pump pressure is about 350 PSIG and the tubing is pressure tested for 2500 PSIG. This 30' of tubing is again free of charge with about a 4 day delivery. I also asked about the noise level of the pump where it will be mounted under the sink. Bennett said they are quiet. The quality of this system is AAA and the service from Bennett is AAA. I can't say enough about these trim tabs.
My C-Dory is a 1990 22' cruiser with the old twin 18 gallon fuel tanks. I appreciate your input. Thank You.
Dick

[C-WEED]

I mounted my Bennett pump on the aft end of the starboard shelf in the cockpit. It's sits hidden in the corner just ahead of the batteries and just behind the Perko rod hold. Becuase of the rod holder this space was often not used. I didn't want the pump on the floor between the fuel tanks. The standard hydro lines worked just fine. I would have used the fitting extention if I knew they were available. One of these days I'll get the boat wet for the test...

[Jimbo]

I'm just getting ready to install my Bennett trim tabs and have read that it is very important to keep the hydralic lines the same length. I have a 1981 "hunky dory" so I can install the pump on either side of my engine well which will have one line at about 24" and the other line at about 48". I can make them the same length but that would require curling up the short one to make it the same length as the long one. Any thoughts on this?
Tnx, Jimbo

[Sea Wolf]

Jimbo-

Just curl up the line that closest to the actuataor and keep the lines the same length. There must be very solid reasons that the lines are kept the same leangth as fluid is pushed into and withdrawn from the two cylinders. I'm sure it has something directly to do with the two sides having equal and matched volumes.

When the directions stress something that much, it isn't just because they want to make it difficult for you! On the contrary, Bennett does everything possible to make it easy and even gives folks the materials to complete the installations properly and easily.

If you're still not sure, call Tom at Bennett and ask him why equal length is so important on the lines. You know what the old salts say- "The only sure things in life are death, taxes, and Tom at Bennett Trim Tabs!"

Good Luck!

Joe.