anchor roller install questions!

ferret30 · Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 5:15 pm Post subject: anchor roller install questions!

Our 2006 22' came with a damaged anchor roller installed. It was quite small (maybe a Sundog brand?) the body was bent and the wheel was mangled. I ended up ordering a Lewmar fixed anchor roller (http://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8361&lid=25869) from Defender to replace the old one.

The Lewmar is bigger and stronger, and the hole pattern is obviously different. I'm trying to figure out how to position it (how much to overhang) and there is no manual to consult. I want to have it far enough out that the Delta 14# doesn't hit the hull when launching or retrieving, but I also don't want to have it hang out far enough that it over-stresses the cored deck structure. When I do the install, I will fill the old holes and drill/dremel/epoxy/redrill the new ones.

I also ended up making an offer on a used Lewmar pivoting roller (http://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8361&lid=25868) on ebay and getting it for $50. Once I have them both in hand I'll pick one to install and sell the other on ebay.

Any suggestions, rules of thumb, etc. on placing either type of roller? If you have either one of these rollers, would you mind measuring from the tip of the bow to the foremost bolt?

Also, would it make sense to try and make a backing plate instead of using fender washers? Or are large fender washers enough?

Thanks in advance for your input!

starcrafttom · Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 5:55 pm Post subject:

Do you have a windlass? if so you may want to go with the pivoted bow rail.

Captains Cat · Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:54 pm Post subject:

Agree with Tom. A rare event(not really Laughing

). Those things are expensive, go ahead with the pivioting one, even if you don't have a windlass now. After pulling 30+ ft of chain and 150 ft of rope rode a few times in bad weather, you soon will!! Thumbs Up

Charlie

Sea Wolf · Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 10:22 pm Post subject:

I prefer the pivoting bow anchor roller from Lewmar. It works with just about any anchor and windlass, and is strong and durable.

While you don't have a windlass yet, you can put a stainless bolt or clevis pin through it to lock it up rigidly, then let it pivot when you add the windlass later. No holes to fix and re-drill a second time that way!

I think the big fender washers will be OK, but a backing plate is always nice and reassuring.

Joe. Teeth

jlastofka · Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:05 am Post subject:

I have the Lewmar pivoting bow roller and their matching Delta anchor. The combination works great with the windlass. Self launching and self stowing.

I've put holes in the boat in a few places for projects and I installed my own sink and Wallas stove/heater. Everywhere I've worked on the boat I've found it to be VERY solidly built. I'm sure when you open up the holes from the existing mounts you'll find a very thick and strong section there, too.

-Jeff

ferret30 · Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 2:13 pm Post subject:

I've been perusing multiple galleries lately, looking for anchor roller pics. If you have the Lewmar pivoting roller, and a picture that shows it well in your gallery, could you let me know? I'll keep wading through the photos in the mean time.

Thanks!

Sea Wolf · Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 2:42 pm Post subject:

Captains Cat · Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:20 pm Post subject:

I'll try to take a few shots of the install on THATAWAY and CAPTAIN'S CAT shortly. One is with the vertical 700 and one with the horizontal.

Charlie

ferret30 · Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:23 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the pics! I think I have enough info to start the project when I get a dry weekend. This will be my first dremel/epoxy project. I have the materials and tools -- I just haven't been ready since I didn't know which roller to install and where. I think I can return the rigid roller to Defender (purchased less than 30 days ago).

ferret30 · Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 10:18 pm Post subject:

I sent the fixed roller to Defender and will be installing the pivoting one. I'd like to drill holes in it so I can secure it in the up position as people have mentioned. I'll buy a pin first so I size the holes correctly. But I'm wondering how I should go about drilling through this thick stainless. I'm guessing I'd wear out my current bits, and I'm also betting the bit would skip around the surface when I tried to start the hole unless I use a guide or a center punch or something.

What do you guys recommend? I could probably take it to a machine shop nearby and just have them tackle it really fast with a drill press.

colobear · Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 12:08 am Post subject:

Drilling through stainless is not easy. I'd take it to the shop.

starcrafttom · Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 2:45 am Post subject:

To drill stainless you just need the right bits. Worth the price.

rogerbum · Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:11 am Post subject:

As Tom indicates, it's not that tough with good bits designed for cutting metal. Titanium or cobalt bits work best. You will need to use a center punch to keep the bit from wandering initially and I find that it's useful to drill a smaller (about 1/2 the final diameter) pilot hole first. To keep the bit cool, use a fairly low speed on the drill and use oil (applied repeatedly) during drilling to keep things cool. Take your time - the low speed will make it take longer but by keeping things cool, you avoid work hardening the material into which you are cutting and you do less damage to your sharp drill bit.

ferret30 · Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 2:55 pm Post subject:

I was thinking of clamping a piece of wood or metal to the piece I'm drilling that already has a hole through it to act as a centering guide. Will I succeed? Smile

Once I get the right kind of bits, do I need a specific cutting oil, or can I just use a light (i.e. sewing machine) oil for cooling the bit? I plan on doing this with a hand held corded drill, so it's going to take some patience!

Finally (for now), I'm assuming there isn't a coating on good stainless that I need to worry about. The metal itself resists corrosion and drilling through wouldn't necessitate sealing the newly exposed metal, right?

Thanks for all the help!

rogerbum · Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 2:59 pm Post subject:

I wouldn't use wood as a centering guide - it will make it impossible to get some oil to the surface and it will restrict the clearance of metal chips. Just use a good centering punch and one or 2 raps with a hammer. No need to worry about sealing the edges - the stainless doesn't have any extra coating. Also, pretty much any light oil will do. 3-in-1 is readily available and works fine.