Condensation Problem in a 22 Cruiser.

[ssobol]

I put in opening side ports in the berth trunk. At night we usually sleep with the berth hatch open a little. Open the hatch, turn the dogs to the closed position, lower the hatch. This leaves it open about a 1/2 inch. Unless it rains really hard, no water comes in. Sometimes we leave the center window open the same way.

Even though there is some dampness, I've not had any problems with mold/mildew on the inside of the boat. I do find mold/mildew in the nonskid tread on the outside which can take some work to remove about once a year.

I am going to try some foam padding/lining on the v-berth sidewalls. My wife complains of cold contact with the walls when sleeping in colder temperatures. We have spent nights on the boat where the temps were below freezing.

[AKMel]

I'm thinking better insulation on the hull will help keep the boat warmer, but some form of dehumidification is necessary to deal with the windows. The humidity capacity chart of cold air versus warm air was insightful. Thanks. 1) I purchased a peltier dehumidifier for cheap. 2) I was PM'd to enclose the anchor rode area and install a 4" computer fan. The PM said theirs draws humid air forward (especially while sleeping) and exhausts it out the weep hole and deck cover, and in turn draws some cooler less humid air into the cabin. I'll try those in combination and see if I need any further steps.

[ssobol]

Has anyone thought of putting a heated element on the windows like rear window defrosters on you car? I could see doing something like this on the front windows (not the center one).

https://www.frostfighter.com/clear-view-defrosters-about.htm

Seems like these come in a lot of sizes. You'd have to put up with lines on the window which some people probably wouldn't like.

There is also this, but it needs 115vac:

http://www.seaclearllc.com/seaclear2fix_012.htm

And this which does not require power:

http://www.seaclearllc.com/seaclear2fix_017.htm

[Ordutch1975]

I installed the wallas 22gb which has two intakes one for fresh air and one for recirculate. You can have the both draw fresh air but that is not recommended. I slept in the boat at 30 degrees which built some moisture but after turning the wallas on within an hour or so the windows were mostly clear. That is the only time I tested it in that weather and it seemed to work ok. I think pulling air in from outside does help create positive airflow to push moisture out. It’s not instant but seems to work.

[colbysmith]

Wish my Webasto would dry things out. It does a great job keeping the boat warm, all the way down to 18 degrees. I have tried using both outside air and inside air for it's combustion air, but notice no difference between the two. There are enough air leaks that I shouldn't need to keep any windows open. (Ie, sink drain and anchor rode hawser.) However, when I do crack a window or two, that does seem to help, except when high moisture outside such as rain. But once it gets below about 40, leaving the windows open is somewhat defeating the purpose of the heater. And without some kind of deflector on the windows/hatches, leaving them open during rain is not reasonable either... Colby

[Ordutch1975]

Mind you my boat is insulated on all surfaces other than the windows so that may help too...

[colbysmith]

Yes, I think that makes a difference. Two-Bears from your neck of the woods, has automotive interior in theirs and along with looking nice, they say it stays dry. I am very tempted to do something like that, but just not sure I should. I think it would be a mess then if I ended up having to take it out.

[Ordutch1975]

[thataway]

[Ordutch1975]

I agree as to the concern - I will never sleep in it without some sort of window or something open. It was 3 people including me. For the record I have nothing that would burn CO2 in the cab either. Well now I have the wallas but it exhausts starboard side. All fuel for my jetboil, and stove was kept outside.

The rear door and front anchor locker are sealed with rubber gaskets, windows seems airtight. So the only air exchange would have been through the sink which is likely not much as it has no where to go.

as to this "I find in most of the 22's there is a fairly good size opening under the cockpit combing into the cabin's aft bulkhead (both sides" I don't see any opening on my boat other than the slight opening to the cab for the control cables but that is in a tube and seems pretty well sealed on the rear where it exits the bulkhead.

[AstoriaDave]

[ssobol]

IMO, I doubt that a typical C-dory will seal up enough to reduce the available oxygen content significantly enough to prevent your stove from working just from people breathing (even 3).

The Jetboil fuel is listed as "butane/propane". It does not indicate the percentages of each. However, if it is mostly butane and it was cold I suggest that the stove did not light because the fuel was too cold to vaporize properly. After fiddling with it for a bit and or having it warm up some while you messed with the windows enough of the fuel vaporized to allow it to light. Butane will not vaporize below about 32 deg F.

I have a butane stove and on cold mornings it is usually necessary to warm the butane canister with body heat to get the stove to operate. As the fuel vaporizes it recools the canister and it may take a few tries to get the stove warm enough to maintain the canister temp.

[thataway]

[ssobol]

An easy test is to wait for a nice sunny spring or fall day. Let the boat sit in the sun and get as warm as possible, then close it up. First thing the next morning see how hard it is to open the door. If the boat is sealed it should be noticeably more difficult than usual.

[Ordutch1975]

By my basic calculations. 600 cubic feet of space to be generous you would have about a day and a half till CO2 levels were toxic - above 7% and about 3 days till you had critical oxygen levels with no air flow.

This seems pretty cool to counter temp issues for the jetboil fuel

https://backpackinglight.com/jetboil-joule-jordan-review-part-1/