Da New Da Nag

baboos_boat · Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2003 1:14 pm Post subject:

Da Nag - Now you have given me another reason to get down in early Spring to EQ. I need to be sure the tall top is functional for my height (6-1) but also like you I will plan on an achilles raft up top. I too am planning on the RayMarine system exactly as you choose - I think Les may have given you the same suggestions as I got.

I too like the lower profile - in fact it was the boat's profile which immediately attracted me to the C-Dory. Afterward I discovered all the other features which cinched the decision. I will be talking to Les about tall vs. short.

The best surprise I got from your list was the option of the "barber chair" for passenger (read wife). If the chair will serve, as I understand it to do, to allow passenger to sit forward comfortably then what a mod! A no brainer. I wonder why Les did not bring this to my attention.

gary

Da Nag · Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2003 2:16 pm Post subject:

Les Lampman · Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2003 11:51 pm Post subject:

Gary,

Bill's right...I've got to make sure the process involved in creating the Barber Chair (Forward Facing Seat) is easily accomplished and doesn't Cost A Fortune. Right now it's very much a developmental, prototype sort of thing. Mike did a fantastic job on the conversion on his 22 (ex-Tyboo) but he's a machinist (and smart) which leaves me trying to find off-the-shelf parts that will make it an easy option for me to do or hopefully to get the factory to offer (and they're not likely to do so it if it means a bunch of custom pieces). I just sent in the drawings to C-Dory to request an alteration to the standard floor to allow me to build and install the 'box' that will slide on top and become the Barber Chair. So far they haven't freaked. Laughing

There's also the issue of the table since it has to be modified to accommodate the back of the seat when one is facing forward. The current table hangers (supports) leave a lot to be desired even for the standard table so the plan is to use the "old fashioned" full length 'track' system that supports the outboard end of the table along it's full length on the cabin wall (this is the style that's in the ex-Tyboo). It will make things much simpler and more stable.

David on Anna Leigh has done several of the mods and his are working well and Tim on Lynn Marie is getting close to (or has) started his. My challenge isn't to get it to work (it's already working great) but to make it a feasible option for me or the factory to install in new boats in an economical way.

baboos_boat · Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2003 12:01 am Post subject: Barber Chair

Les, just read your post. As I understand you, the engineering is not the problem. You can make a qualtiy adjustment to allow the passenger a fine seat to enjoy while looking forward. The issue seems to be price. I will be inquiring in our e mails about the price. I am happy to know however that the modification is available - I think this is an important one overcoming what I saw as a drawback.

I will also be talking to you about Da Nag's comments on the tall vs. standard height cabin.

Thanks, gary

Catman · Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2003 3:37 pm Post subject:

We interrupt Barber Chair Talk for this important question. Da Nerd, you're probably too young to remember this, but when I was a kid there was a cartoon character named Marvin. Seemed that diminutive space squirt's life mission was to use his illudium Q38 Space Modulator to blow up earth. Claimed it blocked his view of Mercury. Or was it Evinrude?

Anyway, he just cracked me up. But I just wanted to know if you had included the illudium Q38 as one of your options.

Cat

Da Nag · Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2003 4:06 pm Post subject:

Dang it Brock - I already lectured you on the importance of details privately, now you're forcing me to correct you in public. Marvin was going to blow up the Earth because it blocked his view of Venus - not Mercury.

There's only thing keeping me from coming up there and kicking Uranus...the fact that I got the Q38 detail wrong. Actually, it PU-36 - it sounds like "Q" in the cartoons, but just did a little research and came up with this facinating tidbit:

Catman · Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2003 7:36 pm Post subject:

Good lord! What have I gotten myself into?

DaveS · Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2003 8:00 pm Post subject:

TyBoo · Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2003 8:22 pm Post subject:

TyBoo · Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2003 8:25 pm Post subject:

Oops. There must be no more mention of the DB now that CB has signed on.

Welcome, Carolyn!

JoeP · Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2003 11:03 pm Post subject:

So now Brock is talkin' some sense here.

You see, not only did the Earth block his view of Venus, but it made him "very angry."

Brock, thanks for getting us back to the crux of the matter. I feel vindicated with my "whatever Brock thinks" vote.

Rock on...

ps As long as I jumped in, I sure hope Mike's new tow rig fits in the garage! Very Happy

Catman · Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2003 11:33 pm Post subject:

Tow-rigs, blow-rigs. Can we talk for a minute about two critical mistakes our favorite nerd made without challenge?
Joe, (thanks for your vote, and know that I'm fighting for you), apparently Da Nerd forgot that Marvin became "very angry" that earth blocked his view, and c'mon, was it a "Pee You 36" or a Q38, as I've humbly asserted?
Voters, we see the cracks in leadership; now go back and reconsider your initial assertion.

TyBoo · Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2003 11:40 pm Post subject:

Maybe we should have called the new site C-Dorks.

TyBoo · Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2003 1:00 am Post subject:

Les -

The slide rod concept can be made "off the shelf" quite easily. The rod should be round, so things will pivot, but the bushing doesn't need to be. The part that does the sliding (what I made the bushing for) can be as simple as two pieces of oak shaped like an "L" that just sits over the rod. Say, an oak 1x2 with a 1x4 attached to it flush on one side. Maybe a shim or two between the assembly and the seat box to give a little clearance for the rod. The most common size of SS rod in marine stores is 7/8", which would be even better than the 3/4" I used because it would be more rigid. Instead of oak, you could use teak, but since you don't see it, oak is cheaper. The rod is the simplest method I could figure out to get the pivot point fully behind the box so the box is completely off the floor when lifted slightly to shift.

Now then, I see what you are saying about making it simple for C-Dory, but I have to disagree a bit. Theirs is a manufacturing plant, for crying out loud! In my mind, the ideal way to build the thing would be the one piece floor board, and a seat box made of fiberglass. The box would have a far greater weight to rigidity ratio if it was one piece construction, including the bottom. I should think that a boat builder would be able to make that, no problem. They could even mold the slide bracket right into it. Done. Simple. Cheap. And they could sell it as a $500 option, no problem.

Now then again - here's an even better idea for the locating tang. Instead of using something that has to be lifted out of a hole and set into another one, how about getting two plastic caster wheels for 39 cents each, and putting them into the front edge of the seat box so they protrude from the bottom 1/4" or so. Then, gouge some rounded depressions in the floor at the two seat box locations. Now all you have to do is release the latch, which I understand is necessary per your explanation, and push the box in the desired direction just hard enough to roll the wheels out of the depressions and over to the next set where they will drop into place. Then you fasten the latch at the new position. Make the depressions deep enough so that the box itself, and not the wheels, is supporting the weight of the box, the stuff stowed inside, and the passenger sitting on it. Minimal effort required, self locating, and no contact while moving other than the wheels.

Da Nag · Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2003 9:35 pm Post subject: