V-Berth Storage

[Aurelia]

Here is a small screw hatch example: I have added a roll of clear duct tape down there as well now.





Greg

[Sunbeam]

I don't have a depth measurement for you, but what I would/will do is use 3/4" cleat stock (epoxied to the underside) and then re-use the cutout for the hatch, as I did on the V-berth flats (sitting on the cleat). On the other hand, if depth is an issue (and why not save any room possible), perhaps one could use stout aluminum bar stock or something along those lines for the "cleats," which would take up very minimal room (1/8" or 3/16"). Also the hatch would be flush just as it is without a hatch. Hmm, there went my 3/4" cleat stock

Just another idea. I can see that people have used the surface mount hatches and been happy with them (and, like your boat, mine has a ~6" round deck-plate under the Porta Pottie area).

One note is that - at least on my boat - there is some "structural" foam that holds up the footwell (it's much harder than the typical open celled pour in foam, but is some type of pour in foam). That may not run aft into this compartment anyway, but just thought I'd mention it. Some support is good, but of course there are many ways to provide it.

[Aurelia]

The foam in ours was less than supportive in that space:)

I would guess about3.5 inches of depth at center and tapering to 1.5 at edges.



Greg

[Sunbeam]

[Aurelia]

[Finally2]

Any of you guys remove the foam and have the most incredibly sticky resin/glue smeared all over the place?

If so how do you get it off? Putty knife is no match. I thought the play would be to remove it and paint in there with some gloss paint but getting it off is worse than getting the foam out

[clayhubler]

I did not have that problem on mine. Just a guess but I think it is pour foam that didnt set up, probably because it wasn't mixed thoroughly. Not sure what to do about it. Maybe try acetone?

[Finally2]

I was curious about acetone but wasn’t sure if it was a bad idea. It’s INCREDIBLY TOUGH to get out. A heat gun has helped but still it’s 10x harder than removing the spray in foam which was not easy. I don’t know what to do. It’s incredibly sticky. It’s incredibly awful

[clayhubler]

You will not harm the fiberglass with acetone. Just be careful about the fumes and such as I could see where it might take a fair amount.

[thataway]

Be really careful of long time or high concentration of Acetone fumes. Mostly irritating, but can have some adverse health issues. Also it is very inflammable I know of one case where it was being used in a garage where there was an open flame water heater, and caused an explosion/fire.

I have not dealt with this residue, but I would try heat and a sharp putty knife to start with. Acetone does soften gel coat, especially if allowed to pool on it.

[Finally2]

So acetone is not doing much. Even with wire brush scrub with it. Had some success with drill bit wire brush and acetone but it loosened up/cleaned about 2in and the whole wire brush is now just thickly caked with the resin. I’d have to buy like 200 of these wire brush bits to do this…

I don’t need it smooth in here. I need it not a sticky mess. How awful would it be to paint right over this residual sticky mess, or even gel coat over it

[Finally2]

I posted some pics in my album if it helps to visualize

[ssobol]

[Finally2]

Oh man I needed to hear that. I think this is an impossible task getting this out

[clayhubler]

Yeah, after looking at those pics I would just try to get as smooth as possible and then paint really good. I think its pour foam that wasn't mixed good enough before they poured it in.