Repairing small drill holes in hull

[marvin4239]

[thataway]

I have also seen the black Starboard or HDPE. Be sure and cross hatch the back (toward the transom)--I use a cutter on a Dremel tool, and give a bit of a dove tail profile to the Starboard. Drill the holes in the Starboard first, then mark where they are going into the hull. Drill out and fill with epoxy this area--maybe you can use at least two of the screw holes from the first transducer location--but I try and keep the screws for the starboard high on the block to avoid interfering with any attempts of mounting the transducer. If you cannot find Starboard--then two 3/8" cutting HDPE boards can be used: The second one covering the first, and its screw holes--Don't go all of the way thru the first layer. I buy the large $5 boards at WalMart--cheaper than Starboard--But it is better if you can find some blocks of the 3/4" stock. I have also seen it used as skids for both hull bottoms, on decks where either traps or skiffs (pull boats) are skidded aboard--so you might find some in the commercial yard. I have also found some on the beach--it is light enough that it seems to wash to shore.

[Stephen Williams]

Now I feel a little stupid!! I've just had a transom transducer installed on my new 16 Cruiser. Professionally done, but he drilled directly into the transom. When I was at the Seattle Boat Show in January, and while on part of the Factory Tour, I remember them saying that the 16' transoms are now completely made from ( I think some composite material) Will that help this situation in any way, and what should I do now?? Boat has not yet been in the water since the install. Thanks.

[breausaw]

Did some calling around and found a plastic supply here that actually has Blue Starboard but only in 1 inch thick, would guess that would work fine.
I understand the reasoning of overdrilling the hole and filling with epoxy, that makes sense.
Also, from talking with a number of plastic ships and boat builders I’m told nothing will bond starboard to anything; using something like 5200 will only serve as a gasket of sorts.
One boat builder I talked to suggest using UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic in place of HDPE (starboard), but said starboard would work fine also.
WOW, this boat stuff is mind-boggling at times.

[Sea Wolf]

[thataway]

Stephen,
Most dealers do not go to the trouble to use a Starboard block--they don't have to deal with the boat 10 years down the line. Dealers also do what is "quick and dirty"...(Builders often take short cuts also--unfortunately).
The foam filled transom will not rot, but you can still get some water intrusion, and even though the foam is "closed cell" it can get water into it, decrease the bond and eventually might cause some breakdown--not sure if it would be a problem. I probably would redrill the holes and put the screws back into solid epoxy.

Jay,
The reaason for the cross hatching, dovetail type of cut is to give some adherance to the Starboard--1" is more than thick enough. I usually make one peripheral cut--which tends to be sure that there is always plenty of 5200 along the edges and "catches" into the cut groove. I usually use 3/4".

[Stephen Williams]

Thank you Bob for your response and advice. You and Sea Wolf are such a treasure!! Steve

[breausaw]

[thataway]

The Loctite 3030 is a glue--and a good one--but it has relitatively poor filling qualities. ie; the parts need to fit very tight. If you had a good match between the HDPE and the glass hull, then it would work very well--but I would still use fasteners and drill out the screw holes to fill with epoxy. I don't see using it as a primer for 5200.
It mainly used for guling plastics to plastics.

[Sea Wolf]

[Jack in Alaska]

Today was maintanence day for the HIGH TIDE. I needed to replace the transducer trying to clear up and intermittent HUMMINGBIRD from last fall.
In the process 5 or 6 old screw holes became uncovered. I took a previous suggestion and drilled them all out to reseal. To my pleasant surprise I found good solid new looking wood in the transom in all of the holes. As my boat is 25 yrs. old that has been working on my mind. No more. Some of those old holes only had RTV in them.
I resealed them with 5200. I then bolted the new transducer to my homemade up/down sliding lexan transducer mount, screwed it to the transom sealing those 4 screw with 5200 and popped a Mikes Hard Lemonade and admired my work.

Tomorrow I need to find out why my kicker water "pee hole" will not pee. The 90 HP Honda was just fine in that regard.

After the long winter, messing around in my boat is good fun.

[C-Dude]

I would try either of these places for HDPE, I have had good luck with them in the past. Stay away from West Marine, you will pay 10 times as much for a similar product, Starboard is just a trade name, HDPE comes in many forms:

http://www.cacalaska.com/

http://www.alaskarubber.com/

Good Luck

[colobear]

I have successfully used the white opaque cutting boards found in Wallyworld in lieu of starboard. I think they are pretty much the same as HDPE. I drill a large number of 1/4" holes about 3/4 way through the back side to help the 5200/4200 adhere and have also doubled those boards to achieve greater thickness. No problems thus far. I hate drilling holes in the boat!!

[siddfynch]

This thread was great, since I found it searching for answers to pretty much the same questions.

However, I've seen a lot of reference to "undercutting" and cannot figure out what this means exactly. Can someone give me a definition?

[Captains Cat]

"undercutting" means that after you drill the hole, you take something like a dremel tool or even a small allen wrench and, inserting it into the hole, you cut out some of the wood that is between the inside and outside "skins" of the hull, or deck or top, whatever you cut the hole in.

Then, you fill the hole with epoxy, let it harden and redrill the hole, usually smaller than the original hole. That way, there's no way for water to get into the core!

Charlie