Replacement Lazarette Covers (Again)

thataway · Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 4:59 pm Post subject:

There are specific areas where you may use butyl tape (incidently some RV techs do not like it unless you have really good compression). Many specific users say not to use underwater--people get away with all sorts of things--that does not mean that this is proper.

As for use in diving--Sunbeam--do you have documentation of what specific butyl material this individual used? There are specific butyl gaskets which are used regularly in diving--but these are under compression between two pieces as you describe. This is an entirely different application than on a boat.

Butyl is fine when under good compression--lets say that you have already potted a hole (Ferret 30, you will find all of the tools and items you referenced in your link in my shop--and most of them have been shown in various links I have posted on doing specific applications--including some not shown in this article) you can use the butyl under compression for bolts on cleats. Both surfaces have to be clean. Dissimilar metals should not be joined with butyl. It is questionable that screws into fiberglass, such as the hatches are sufficient for the butyl--in my opinion. It you thru bolted them--fine. There is no significant adhesive property to the butyl tape.

Back to the epoxy hardeners-- 205 Fast Hardener will have a 9-12 minute Pot Life at 72 degrees. For many of us in higher temps the 206 is a far better hardener and it gives a longer pot life of Pot life at 72°F (22°C): 20 to 25 minutes. Most of us prefer the longer pot life. Again, before starting any epoxy work, please study the excellent guides put out by the West Systems.

Sunbeam · Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 5:11 pm Post subject:

ferret30 · Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 3:56 pm Post subject:

haakebecks · Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 12:31 am Post subject:

Just as an FYI, the IMTRA hatches worked great and it was an easy project. I would post some pics, but with as many as there are out there, really no point. Bone dry even after pressure washing the boat.

Thank again for everybody's help along the way.

pat.jack · Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 11:43 am Post subject:

Hi C-Brats,

Not trying to add confusion, but I also replaced our lazerette covers a few months ago. I had picked up earlier threads on our site on the problems with the original covers. I ordered Defender part # SPA-40155. The cost each was $74.99 in May 2013 when I placed my order. Placing the order was pretty painless with Defender. I also found my covers leaked like crazy when it rained. My battery switch is located right below the portside lazerette opening. The rain eventually destroyed the battery switch, so I replaced that when I changed out the covers. Since then the lazerette has been bone dry, so hopefully no additional wiring/reliability issues due to the leaky covers. Note-I'm guessing the part number difference (40154 vs 40155) is in regards to the color-ours is a pretty good match-but not perfect-but it is a great improvement in what we had!!

My wife and I are slowly adding pictures to our album from our work this year. We have not yet added the pictures from the lazerette replacement but we'll hopefully get to it shortly.
Regards,
Jack Howell

haakebecks · Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 11:51 am Post subject:

My hatches weren't quite the same color either, but close and look pretty good. I'm sure the years of gelcoat oxidation don't help any, lol!

itiming · Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 3:24 pm Post subject:

Replaced our 2008 lazarette covers with this topic's recommended So-Pac 4000 rectangular, medium hatches.

Our port hatch was originally setup to be used as a live well, and it leaked. Our starboard hatch is setup with the house battery, switches and other electrical connections. It was better sealed and did not leak during our use.

Here is the port hatch after removing the old hatch:

Note, not as much sealant (compared to the starboard hatch) and some mildew along opening edge. However the core in both hatches was well coated with gelcoat and did not have moisture nor rot.

Here is the port hatch after removing the old seal, cleaning the mildew with chorine spray, and adding a cedar shim. Although the new hatch has a larger opening, its frame is a bit narrower (though same length).

Here is the new cover installed over the port lazarette:

I used LifeSeal to seal the new hatch covers to the deck. Used 3M 5200, SS screws and a thin line of epoxy putty to attach the cedar spacer. Used Epoxy for old cover screw holes and to bed the new cover screws.

Thanks for all the helpful posts. Hoping my install will keep both hatches dry now - esp the starboard hatch with house battery and electrical connections.