Garelick motor mount for kicker

Plan C · Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 12:48 am Post subject: Garelick motor mount for kicker

I seem to remember that Garelick has been a preferred brand for kicker mount. I see a used one for sale, the "up to 20HP" model. Is this a good choice for a 22 Cruiser?

Dave

flapbreaker · Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 2:54 pm Post subject:

I think it depends on where you mount it. Wether you have trim tabs ect. My kicker is mounted to a stationary motor mount called a mini jacker. It's a bit close to the main motor but it works. The lift type mounts work good but I've heard some people complain that over time they can fail. Especially from trailering if they are not tied down tight.

You can look in my album at the motor placement.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Modifications&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

amy and karl · Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 4:19 pm Post subject: Garelick

Here are a couple pics of a Garelick 71090 on a 22 with twins. This mount is rated for up to 30 hp and 169 lbs.

I just finished the install last weekend and have not tested it yet. I did put my kicker on it and it all feels very solid. As for towing Garelick says not to tow with the motor on the bracket. I will be towing with the motor on and have a tiedown holding the bracket in the full upright position. It's really not as tight to the starboard main as it appears.

karl on C-Daisy

thataway · Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 4:22 pm Post subject:

When you mount the bracket be sure that there is enough room to turn both the main fully with the engine mounted, and to turn the kicker for manuevering.

Jack in Alaska · Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 3:04 am Post subject:

IMHO you have too many motors on a 22' C-Dory. Why do you need a kicker when you have twins already. Just asking.........it is your boat.

Swee Pea · Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:10 am Post subject:

I used a Fulton adjustable mount and a quick mount bracket so the motor mount was not permanently attached. See Swee Pea photo album, page 4. It worked out well. We used a Nissan 6HP kicker, one that could be used on an inflatable. Since we opted for a 15" shaft, better for the inflatable, its primary use, the Nissan had to be lowered to accomodate the 20" shaft requirement of the C Dory. The kicker will be used for emergencies only. I followed Les' advice, and bought the small outboard for its primary use. I think I have the best of both worlds for me. Nothing is perfect.

John
Swee Pea

amy and karl · Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:09 pm Post subject:

Jack in Alaska, you're right. It is my boat and we bought it to use it, a lot. The reason for the kicker is twofold; to troll the Puget Sound for salmon when fishing and to use as a dinghy motor. It's difficult, to say the least, to find an open space at the dock at our State Parks in the Summer, and I have no interest in rowing to the beach. Not to mention the 340 hrs on both 40's on our 2007 22.

Karl on C-Daisy

journey on · Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:23 pm Post subject:

Journey On has one of those Garlic motor mounts, on which we use a 10 hp Honda (110#.) Works great, easy to raise motor. It's what the factory put on.

However, I wouldn't ever trailer with the motor on. You can tie it down the motor, but there is enough slop in the mount/motor combination that it's going to rock. Short distances, OK; on the interstate, no.

One more thought. That motor mount is above the waterline. You don't need to seal it on. If there's no (or very little) sealant, it'll be easy to get off.

Boris

SeaSpray · Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:38 pm Post subject:

Swee Pea John,

Your set-up looks good. Have you tried it with a steering rod to the main?

Have you tried the 6hp on a rough day or against strong wind/current. I have thought about doing the same thing. With the davit for lifting the kicker you could even go with an 8hp but it would need to fit the dingy. What dingy do you use the 6hp with?

Thanks,
Steve

Swee Pea · Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 6:08 am Post subject:

I have a Mercury 270 Air Deck PVC, got it from Busters Marine. In fact I do have the rod that connects the main to the kicker. It has the quick release attachments. Had to make a bracket so that it would attach at the correct angle so it wouldn't bind.
I am ashamed to say, but I have yet to test the motor for "push". The Mercury would accomodate up to a 10 HP I believe, but I wanted to keep the motor as light as possible. MY 55 lb 6 hp is about 26 pounds lighter and $350 less expensive than the 8 HP.
I realize that the 6HP is small to push a 22 CDory, but for the type of boating I do, it should be sufficient (to limp back in an emergency). It is not there for trolling; just a back up in case of an primary engine failure. And if I have it for the inflatable, why not hang it from the transom and have it "just in case", just for the cost of the bracket and mount.
I opted for the quick mount bracket because, in my opinion, the bracket is ugly without a motor attached. I simply remove the bracket by sliding it into the permanent mount.

Good luck.
John
Swee Pea

amy and karl · Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:50 pm Post subject:

Dave, we finally got out on the water today to test out our kicker and the Garelick mount. It works quite well. It's quite easy to move up and down and steering is a breeze while sitting on the starboard lazerette. I think that the position yours would be in would only make it more user friendly. Anyhow, best of luck with your decision.

karl on C-Daisy

colbysmith · Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:01 pm Post subject:

Ressurecting this thread as I need help mounting a new kicker. Swee Pea looks to have the best setup I've seen so far looking through some of the past forums regarding this. Here's the deal. My main is a Merc 115 hp EFI 4-Stroke. I just bought a Tohatsu 6hp, 20" shaft. I have a swim step on the port side, and I have Lenco trim tabs that are 12" x 12". I just received a Mini Jacker I ordered, but I don't think it's going to work. First off, I need to raise it higher than I'd like to get it over the trim tab piston. Then it doesn't really provide the set back I need to get my kicker behind the tab. This is what the back of my boat looks like:

Any suggestions? Photos would be great. Thanks. Colby

Spike · Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:10 pm Post subject:

How about some sort of spacer between the mini jack plate and your transom. A 6hp Tohatsu is not that heavy of a motor. Even if it is just an inch maybe that will buy you enough clearance. You can notch out the bottom of the jack plate to clear the tab piston

Sunbeam · Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:27 am Post subject:

I just mounted trim tabs and a Mini-Jacker, so I had to figure out a similar set up. But... I can't quite visualize why the Mini Jacker won't go "high enough" to clear your trim tab actuator (piston). On mine the actuator top is "inside of" the Mini Jacker, but the "insideness" wouldn't change if I mounted the MJ higher or lower (I did have to make sure I had it set up athwartships to clear properly, but not height-wise). Is yours hitting at the bottom of the inverted U of the Mini Jacker? It does look like the Lenco actuator mounts fairly high on the transom, so maybe by the time it gets to the bottom of the Mini Jacker it's angled out too far on its way to the trim plane?

On mine the setback was close, but does clear the tab without any problem. I had asked a pro if "a miss was as good as a mile" and apparently it is (since the tabs cannot move aft).

Sunbeam

colbysmith · Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:38 am Post subject:

If I remove the wood pad from the mini jacker to get more clearance on the trim tab piston (since I can always trim the bottom of that pad), the transom side of the jacker still needs to sit about an inch and a half to two inches above the top of the transom, which really puts the kicker too high. As for a spacer, that might possibly work, but that's just more material I need to add then. If the Fulton unit would fit like it did on Swee Pee, I may need to go that route. I'll see if later today I can get a few more photos with the mini jacker held in place for a better visual of the problem.