Hull runners?

SENSEI · Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2004 2:26 pm Post subject:

I have a 1983 flat bottomed clasic and I decided to gouge out a well for a bilge pump. I can verify that it was plywood. it was a real job to clean it all out and glass over it. I also had a thru hull toilet that I took out and filled in the holes. it was plywood there also.

Da Nag · Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2004 4:10 pm Post subject:

danbeaudoin · Joined: 22 Jul 2004 Posts: 9 C-Dory Model: 19 Angler

Do you think applying the 5200 or epoxy directly to the wood and pressing (blocking) it to the hull without using any screws would last any length of time? She rests in mud at low tide and I only have her in for a couple of months a year.

Larry H · Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2004 12:38 am Post subject:

Hi,

I think that either would bond if prepped properly. The natural teak oil must be washed off of the bonding area with acetone. 5200 takes a long time to completely cure, but epoxy is much faster. You need to locate the strips so they don't move during cure. They want to slide around. One small screw at each end should locate the strips.

If properly done, the epoxy will outlast the wood. Are you using bottom paint?

danbeaudoin · Joined: 22 Jul 2004 Posts: 9 C-Dory Model: 19 Angler

Yes there is bottom paint. Naturally I will scrape this off first.
Thankyou,
Dan

Redƒox · Guest

Hey were back! Had a great little weekend, I coulda stayed longer in the camper on the shores of Resurrection Bay, (falling asleep to the waves lapping the beach---ahh:) but had to get home. I see you got some excellent advice here.
Well, not just the bottom, but also the deck around the cabin had a plywood core! I know the transom is balsa though, (I had to replace my hull drains a few years ago) no biggy to me either way, both were good as new! I have to assume the "runners" are also some kind of wood-cored material. I like the way there glassed into the hull on the 85 model.

PS: I like the new C-B logo!!
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