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Battery Isolator Test

 
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MichaelOnTheClaraMae



Joined: 30 Oct 2003
Posts: 121
City/Region: Charleston
State or Province: SC
Photos: Clara Mae
PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 7:29 am    Post subject: Battery Isolator Test Reply with quote

I know a battery isolator contains diodes that permit current to flow in one direction only. Power from an alternator and/or shore charger supplied to the power-in stud of the battery isolator flows to each of the power-out studs connected to each battery bank. Current cannot flow back from one battery bank to another battery bank.

Accordingly, there should be continuity between the power-in stud and each of the individual power-out studs. And in turn, there should be no continuity between one power out stud and another. Correct?

Thanks in advance for helping out the electrically challenged.

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Michael
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael-

You are correct.

Here are two sources that deal with testing a battery isolator:

Installation and Test Instructions for Norco Battery Isolator

RV Doctor Question of the Month Second Question

Joe.

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Lake Shasta, California

"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous
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MichaelOnTheClaraMae



Joined: 30 Oct 2003
Posts: 121
City/Region: Charleston
State or Province: SC
Photos: Clara Mae
PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine is indeed bad and I have a replacement on order. Thanks for your help Joe.

Michael
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20802
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Consider that diode isolators cause a voltage drop of about half a volt--thus it is difficult to keep the battery fully charged.

A combiner, does not have the voltage drop, and it s a better solution for battery combining and isolation.

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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
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MichaelOnTheClaraMae



Joined: 30 Oct 2003
Posts: 121
City/Region: Charleston
State or Province: SC
Photos: Clara Mae
PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I read that Bob and if I were putting together a new boat, a combiner is likely what I would use. But the Clara Mae has done great getting 5 years out of her original four 2-year batteries and always with power to spare. I have routinely run the fridge off of the two-battery bank for four plus days without recharging. So I am going to stick with the original configuration for now. Kind of a "don't fix what is not broken" approach. I, and I am sure others here on the site, appreciate the suggestion though.

Michael
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