Deck Thickness/Bow Chocks?

Valkyrie · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 7:35 am Post subject: Deck Thickness/Bow Chocks?

Hi Brats,

I'm planning on adding bow chocks to Valkyrie and was wondering if anyone knows just how thick the foredeck is.

I'm not sure if I'm going to through-bolt and use a backing plate of some sort or just overdrill the hole, fill it with West Systems epoxy and use screws. It depends on the deck thickness.

Any ideas?

Nick
"Valkyrie"

matt_unique · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:55 am Post subject: Chocks

I will be doing the same with my Tomcat. I was leaning to overdrill, fill with epoxy paste, then using screws too...would be interested to read the collective wisdom.

Sneaks · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:39 am Post subject:

Total thickness where I cut out for the windlass was 13/16" made up of a hair under 1/2" balsa core, a 3/16" deck and a 1/8 inner lining sandwich.

2005 C-22

Don

westward · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:49 am Post subject:

I did this on our 2007 22 Angler, to keep mooring lines from chafing on the bow rail stanchions. Used 1-1/4" SS screws with fender washers as backers inside and nylox nuts. Bedded the hardware in quick dry 5200. The area in the cuddy underneath is so far forward/to the side that there is very little risk of someone hitting or scraping the protruding screw, but I used cap nuts anyway. The chocks (I call them fairleads) were even marked R and L for orientation. One of those quick, easy, high payoff modifications that we all love! Good luck. Mike.

Jim and Anne · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:29 am Post subject:

Nick,
I added bow chock to CompanionShip. The deck is about 1" thick so I used 1 1/2" screws and 1 1/4" fender washers as backing. I used a thick layer of 4200 to bed the chocks. We sit on a mooring with two pennants, so the chocks eliminated the chafing. I haven't got to it yet, but I plan to add a small piece of self-stick plastic or vinyl on the hull to protect the gelcoat where the line goes overboard.
Jim

Valkyrie · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:45 am Post subject:

Thanks to all of you.

Valkyrie came with 150 of chain, which I replaced with 25 feet of 1/4 chain and 300 feet of 1/2 inch line. With the chocks I'll be able to lead the line around the windlass and to the bow cleat without chafe.

Nick
"Valkyrie"

colobear · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:58 am Post subject:

Nick and other Brats who have done this,

I've been thinking about the same thing for C-Cakes and have been unsure about just where to put the fairleads/chocks. Would you provide photos and explain why you chose your particular location? I am planning to throughbolt.

Thanks.

Grumpy · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:12 am Post subject:

Barry,
I did this on Kingfisher and will post some pictures later today. However I must say that if I did it again I would go for bigger fairleads so you can get a good layer of anti-chafe. I will give the dimensions of the ones I used when I post the pics.

Merv

Grumpy · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:23 pm Post subject:

Barry,
Picture now on page #5 of Kingfisher album. I used through bolts with backing washers and dome nuts (and you need two pairs of hands !! Should be sufficient since most of the loading is shear.

Would recommend larger units simply to get heavier duty mooring line/anchor rode through there together with some anti-chafe.

Merv

therevdr · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:27 pm Post subject:

As I watch what people do with any kind of hardware that might have a line attached to it -AND- in my experience with the USCG AUXILIARY in towing boats in emergencies . . . whatever I put on my boat (chocks, cleats, fairleads, or posts) that might possibly be tied to, grasped onto, pulled at, and hooked ~ I backplate. (Yes! there is the otherside nuts, bolts, plates that might be bumped into and there is a moisture-leakage issue . . . but there are ways to deal with both those issues!!)
Just my humble opinion based on my modest observations.
Bruce
therevdr on DRIFTWOOD DREI

Valkyrie · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 5:48 pm Post subject:

The C-Brats come through again!

Thanks for all of the good advice, especially Grumpy's photos - good detail.

Valkyrie will be pulled for the season next week and I plan on getting everything ready NOW for our trip to FL this winter and next year's fishing and cruising.

I'll post a few cabin upgrades next week.

Regards,

Nick
"Valkyrie"

westward · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:49 pm Post subject:

I did mine like Merv but used one size larger fairleads and installed them further aft. I wanted to install them on the flat spot like he did, but it interfered with my anchor deck pipe if I recall. I think, but am not sure, that I ended up installing mine on the nonskid. There may have been enough room on the flat edge portion to install there and still have room for the washers to sit flat below (the boat is in Anacortes and I'm in Seattle). With the bigger size hardware the line comes up and out of the fairlead at times, mainly when handling. Pretty secure once you're tied off. Best to all! Mike.

Pat Anderson · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:08 pm Post subject:

OK, I looked up bow chocks and fairleads - why pray tell do I need either of these guys?

Dora~Jean · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:16 pm Post subject:

When you're anchored and are either in heavy weather or expect weather, you don't want the bow roller assy or windlass taking the load of the anchor and rode. You want to route it to your bow cleat through one fairlead or the other, keeps chafing down and prevents scratching the gelcoat in that area.

Doryman · Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:58 pm Post subject: