Lift & Lower Kicker Brackets

[Jazzmanic]

Anyone out there using a lift & lower kicker bracket (i.e. Garelick) on their CD-22 Cruiser? I'm considering putting one on, especially since I'll be adding Bennett M120 Sport Tabs. It doesn't seem to me that many CD's are outfitted with one of these. Also, is it absolutely necessary that the motor bracket is rated for a 4 stroke if the engine weight is within the maximum weight range?

Peter

[tpbrady]

Peter,

My 9.9 four stroke was originally mounted on a bracket you could raise and lower. It broke (catastophically) in the first 3 months. I got my money back and simply mounted a Garelick backboard directly to the transom and it cleared Bennett trim tabs by about an inch with the motor down. When tilted up it clears the water by a couple of inches.

All in all it was a lot less expensive ($50) and stronger. In addition, I was able to get a steering rod from Cabelas to remote steer the kicker. Look at the pictures in the tech library that shows the results:

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=OutboardsandSystems&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=2

Tom

[Jazzmanic]

Thanks Tom, I was figuring that would be the answer because most kicker installations I see on this site are similar to yours or mounted on stationery brackets like Dogon Dory's or Tyboo Mike's.

Peter

[TyBoo]

The stationary bracket on the TyBoo22 began as a $160 fancy pivoting job. I took all the fancy stuff off and made it stationary. I got about $134.50 worth of fancy stuff out if the shed, and I believe the remaining parts are still serving the new owners well.

On the Classic hull, where you can stand right next to the transom in the corners, the pivoting bracket works OK. But on the post-'87 hulls, you have to lean over the splashwell to reach it. Not very handy. The stationary bracket will let you clear the tab and will also allow the kicker to hang closer to vertical so it will tip up far enough to clear the water.

[Sawdust]

The Tyboo bracket is a winner. Loved it, recommend it. Only way to go. My old Arima buddy holding his new Yamaha 9.9 as it slowly gurgled under water after breaking his bracket is a great memory that I don't want to repeat.

Dusty

[ripple]

I want to use a 9.9 HP, 15 inch shaft motor for a kicker because I also use this motor on my inflatable. I hung in on the transom just to check the height and it will definitely need to be mounted lower to prevent cavitation. I bought a pivoting mount and have been experimenting with different mounting locations with clamps on the transom. It definitely will get the motor low enough, but it seems like a lot of mechanical parts to possibly fail. Does any one have any experience using a short shaft motor as a kicker? Any suggestions for the best way to mount a short shaft?

Thanks.

[thataway]

I have used the Garlick mounts--and have one of the heavy duty ones for the 15 hp Honda we will be using as a kicker on the CD 25. You can use a short shaft, but they will not be as effective in reverse, since the prop wash hits the hull. Going foreward they are fine, but in heavy seas may cavitate as the prop comes partly out of the water when the stern rises. For us, the trade off is OK--but one has to realize that there are some limitations of the short shaft.

[ccflyer]

I've got the "fancy" bracket in my 22'. Pictures are in my "adding a kicker album"
This is my first season and it has worked well. Of course it helps if one remembers to raise the kicker when its not in use or one will see a considerable degradation in the speed/economy.

[ripple]

bob-

the reason I wanted to use the pivoting mount is that it does actually allow the cavitation plate of the 9.9 short shaft to be level with the bottom of the hull (just like the main engine). Theoretically, it should behave the same as a long shaft except that the power head will be close to the water.

I guess to clarify, it is the parallel arm type bracket that allows the motor to translate vertically and not change pivot orientation...11.5 inches of vertical travel...
CC-flyer-

I looked at your pictures. That is the same setup I am considering, although I am planning on putting the motor on the starboard side to avoid the problem that you are having with the tiller hitting the side of the splash well. It looks like you are actually using a long shaft motor though??

Thanks for the help guys. I hate to drill holes in my boat unless I am confident that my system will work. I appreciate any advice from people who have been there.

Dougal in CT

[thataway]

Dougal,
I am using the same bracket--and have it on the stb side, because of the handle issue. I have placed extra batteries (which I wanted anyway) outboard of the Water heater on the CD 25--which is more weight than the outboard and bracket.

Yes, you can put the cavitation plate at the water line--but in many sea conditions this may be lower than you want--because of the seas. With the pivoiting mount you have the option of how far down you want--and yet get the engine all of the way out of the water. I first started using these brackets in the 60's on an 18 foot runabout which I took offshore.

[ripple]

Thanks Bob,

So, I guess the real question is, would you recommend this mount as the best option for using a 15" shaft motor as a kicker on a CD22 (with the caveat that it may not be ideal in all conditions) ?

Dougal

[dotnmarty]

I would like a stationary bracket for my 5hp kicker. I do not want to drill holes in the transom. Do you know of any that slip over the transom and are fastened with clamps? Thanks.

[thataway]

Dougal, Yes, I recommend it--that is what I am using on the CD 25.
Marty P, about 45 years ago I made a mount out of 2 x 4"s for a 5 hp which we clamped on the transom of an Owen's sea skiff. It basically hung over the back and we used large C clamps. Using Aluminum angle one could make a similar device.

There are brackets which fit on a plate which is bolted to the transom. There is no major problem putting bolts thru a transom, as long as you drill out the holes ahead of time, then coat the core with epoxy, and use a good urethane sealant. If done properly there will be no moisture intrustion. If you wanted to get the bracket off the transom then consider the plate approach.

[rob bauerle]

I'm still trying to decide what kind of bracket to install on my 22 cruiser
with a 9.9 honda kicker on a boat with a swim platform and trim tabs.
Has anyone used the HYDRAULIC TILT AND TRIM from Bob's machine shop?