Help, Dead Windlass

thataway · Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:14 am Post subject:

Glad the problem is resolved and you can get back to the serious business of life: fishing!

I would suggest that when a boat is purchased (new or used) that you go thru the circuits, label all of the wires. I have a small labeler which we keep on each of the boats. We traced out all of the wires on the Tom Cat and the CD 25, added fuses, breakers where appropiate (by ABYC rules) and labeled each end of the line, plus tried to label all of the fuses.

The two windlasses I have on the C Dory boats have a direct "X" switch, rather than selenoids. (I have the Lewmar 700 and 700 FF (free fall), which are virtually identical, except for the mechanism which allows the clutch disengagement on the FF unit.

These smaller windlasses are low power draw. In most of my other boats, I have used selenoids--but in the smaller power draw, I belive that the direct switch has an advantage by its simplicity and avoiding putting selenoids in the area which is often wet (anchor rode locker).

Also, look very carefully at all of the crimps, insullation and if wires have been partailly cut or pinched. You may decide, as I did, that some of the wires are undersized, and run parallel circuits to the major bus bars.

It is farily easy to add a bail to the anchor pulpit--and in John's case, that will probably be advisable. Just a piece of 3/16" thick x 1/2" wide (approx) SS, bent in a "U" shape, and bolted or tack welded to the sides of the anchor pulpit will suffice. I agree that it is advisable to avoid the foredeck, especially at night in a seaway!

Sea Wolf · Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:27 am Post subject:

Bob-

Good idea to keep the solenoid out of the rode locker!

I've only installed two windlasses, but have avoided putting any of the electrical equipment other than the windlass itself, in the rode locker.

On the CD-22 I put the solenoid on the bulkhead on the back of the helm along side the breaker and up/down switch which protrude to the other side, and on the Sea Ray, put it in a sealed ammo box under the v-berth along side the dedicated windlass battery and its charger.

Joe.

thataway · Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:38 am Post subject:

Joe,
I agree on the larger boats is is often best to put a separate battery bank foreward for only the windlass. This was cheaper when copper was at half the price it is now! We did this on all of our larger boats. Also many larger boats will have muitiple stations for the windlass activation: a deck switch, a bow hand held remote, a flying bridge and pilot house remote--etc.

Many larger boats may draw up to 500 amps when the windlass is loaded, and the shorter the wires, the better (less voltage drop).

Sea Wolf · Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:53 am Post subject:

Bob-

The primary reason I went with the dedicated battery on the larger boat was the difficulty encountered when trying to bring 00 gauge wires forward from the batteries in the stern to the bow of the boat. Didn't want to drill a half dozen or more pairs of 5/8" holes in all of the bulkheads and compartment separators.

Joe.

True Story · Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:09 pm Post subject:

Great timing for this post as I'm also having operating issues with my two year old Sprint 600 vertical windlass.

I applied the multi-meter directly to the two wires entering the windlass and read 12.7 volts with the toggle switch switched to drop. I didn't notice a breaker switch on the windlass. Am I correct in assuming my problem must lie within the windlass? I removed the plastic cover which encases the motor and noticed a significant amount of rust on the bottom of the motor casing which would leave me to believe I've experienced water intrusion into the motor.

Does anyone know if it is practical to replace the motor? I'm not sure this is something I would tackle myself. So, I start considering installing a new windlass but it appears the manufacturer has discontinued this model. Not sure I would want to replace with same if the problem could re-surface in the future. Any ideas? Thanks, Tim

Sea Wolf · Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 1:11 pm Post subject:

True Story · Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 1:36 pm Post subject:

Thanks alot for your helpful response to my inquiries Joe. I noticed somewhere the other day that a replacement motor was around $500 and the new V700 was guaranteed waterproof to 3'. I'm a thinkin the long term solution might be to replace the unit. Tim

thataway · Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 3:45 pm Post subject:

Probably best to replace the unit. However, I have had several windlass motors reconditioned by local starter shops (we have one which works on all types of marine elements as well as cars and trucks).