HELP! No Power to Accessory Bus, dead battery, wet boat

ClueZo

Our C-Dory is a 2004 22' Crusier with twin Hondas. Boat has 2 battery system w/o charger. Also no shore power. Battery switch is simple ON/OFF on starboard side. Port side battery has no switch and is wired to start port side engine only.
Boat ran fine 2 weeks ago; no apparent problem. It sat at the moor during June's bad weather. I noted that it looked low in the water yesterday and went out to check. Starboard side battery was dead. Bilge pump was not able to cycle and rainwater was sloshing over deck boards.
Boat is now at the dock and dry, but I cannot locate the problem. I was able to start port engine from isolated battery (good thing).
Once at the dock I jumped the starboard battery (not that easy in the rain) and started that engine to charge battery and run bilge pump. Pump cycled OK off the direct wire to the battery, but I could not get it to run from the accessory panel switch. (I did note that red light on switch illuminated when the pump cycled in auto.). With engine running and battery switch in ON position none of the accessories (horn, wiper, radio, gps, etc.) work. Trim tabs which were installed by C-Dory Marine in Kent also don't have power.
All fuses are good.
Ran back to the house for a multimeter.
Engine gauges work and voltage is 14+ volts there. Voltage check at switch panel bus shows about 0.5 volts. No accessories (radio, GPS, etc.) have power.
Battery switch seems to be OK, but could not get volt meter probes on it.
Battery drain could indicate a short some where, but I can't find it. Visual inspection of wires found nothing.
Any ideas?

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:57 am Post subject:

Vince-

The boat building industry standards require a large fuse in the cable that leads from the battery forward to the helm. There will be an enlarged rubber section in that cable with a fuse that looks like a plug sticking out of it. It should be back close to the battery and switch. The cables to the motors are not required to have fuses in them.

The red light is fed power from the bilge pump when the bilge pump automatic switch closes. The pump and switch are hard wired directly to the battery and not through the helm panel unless the panel is switched on and the manual bilge pump switch is in the "on" position.

Engine gagues get their power from the engines which are wired directly to the battery.

If you can't find the fuse, you may have to loosen up the battery on/off switch and check for power there, then trace it backward or forward as the case may be.

Hope this helps!

Good Luck!

Joe. Teeth

ClueZo · Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 12:33 pm Post subject:

Joe,
Thanks for prompt reply. I will head out and check for fuse and post what I find. Any idea why battery went dead?
Vince

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 1:12 pm Post subject:

ClueZo · Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 2:25 pm Post subject:

There was a 50A breaker in the line with what looked to me (weak eyes) a red "reset" button. On closer examination the red button was the trip button and the reset is a black lever (almost invisible to these eyes) that swings out when the breaker trips or you press the red button. I reset the breaker and voila power to the helm panel.
I restarted engines and all appears well. We always turn battery switch to OFF when we leave the boat. It was off when I boarder the flooding boat yesterday.
Mystery: why did breaker trip and what drained the battery? As soon as I get some time I'll check out the batteries. They are originals. The boat gets very light use.
Can anyone tell me how long they last?
Thanks again,
Vince

ClueZo · Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 2:30 pm Post subject:

Use the boat more often: That is a great solution!
Thanks for the explanations and assistance.
I'll follow your advice.
Vince

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 9:02 pm Post subject:

ClueZo-

You asked:

"Can anyone tell me how long they last? " about your batteries.

Good question. They ought to last three or four years, maybe longer. I have two of my four group 27's deep cycle's that are five years old and doing just fine. I believe the deep cycle type do last longer than the hight amperage starting/cranking types.

Some people just renew their batteries every few years just to be on the safe side, but if you watch them carefully and keep them charged, they can be used for 4-6 years, at least that's what I get out of them.

Here in California, we don't have the cold winters that forces folks back east to store them indoors during those months.

Joe.

RJD Wannabe · Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 9:57 pm Post subject:

Can't say enough about a solar panel for keeping the batteries charged. Saved me more than a few times

gljjr · Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 10:40 pm Post subject:

Personally I would change out the batteries (lead acid ones anyway) at 4 years. On a car I might go longer but in the boat I don't want to be caught out in the middle of the straight and have a battery failure! Sure I could come in on the kicker but that would sure ruin my weekend.

Lead acid batteries start a sulfation process as soon as they are created (a by product of being charged). As time goes on the sulfation leaves a residue on the bottom of the battery. After about 4 years the residue is usually close enough that it starts to short out the plates causing dead cells in the battery. Battery manufacturers are aware of this and that is why their warranties work the way they do. The batteries with the longer warranties have more space under the plates so they don't short out as soon as the cheaper batteries do.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 12:44 pm Post subject:

While discussing all of this, the thought struck me that many boat owners don't know about the fuse or circuit breaker back in line with the positive leads coming off the battery and up to the helm.

Also, Im betting that those with the fuse set up probably aren't carrying a replacement fuse or two.

Might well be worth a look to see what you have in your boat and worth getting a few replacements if you have fuses.

Joe.

Some fuses and a circuit breaker.

Wefings · Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:18 am Post subject:

Bilge pumps that cycle[ I.E. automatic pumps] are battery killers . A float switch is a better solution in my view . Then your pump only operates when it needs to instead of every few minutes till the battery is dead. With a charging system its ok , but I still prefer a float switch.
Marc

Sea Wolf · Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:29 am Post subject:

ClueZo · Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:40 pm Post subject: The end of my sad story

After finding the problem, saving the boat and drying everything out, the batteries died day before yesterday. Tried to resuscitate unsuccessfully; bought 2 new deep cycle batteries yesterday and went boating yesterday and today.
My lessons: (1) use boat more often; (2) use boat more often; (3) use boat more often; (4) CHECK WATER LEVEL IN BATTERIES; (5) CHARGE BATTERIES PERIODICALLY ON DRY LAND or (6) buy new batteries every 3 years.
Thanks for your sympathy and assistance.
Happy boating,
Vince