5200 or 4200 sealant

[seahooked]

In the next few days I'm planning on checking the screws that penetrate the balsa core in the cockpit area of my 2006 CD25 to make sure they are sealed properly. This includes both bilge pumps and other brackets. If I find any without sealant would 3M 5200 or 4200 be more appropriate? I have both. Also, am I correct in assuming that everything would have to be completely dry before either sealant could be applied?
Thanks.

[thataway]

Are you talking of the cockpit floor or the hull? I don't think that any pumps are on the cockpit floor (which is balsa cored also). The plastic hatches are usuall silicone sealed--although Life Caulk, life seal is probably a little better, since it is specifically for plastic and has both urethane and silicone.

The best way of taking care of the screws in the cored hull is to remove them, and if possiable fill the hole with epoxy--see my piece written today on drilling a hole, and under cutting.

It depends on what the base of the pump is made of --unfortunately some of the pumps used on the c dories are plastic and either of the pure urethanes is not recommened--see above. On my 25, the main bilge pump is screwed into solid glass in the sump in the center of the hull. under the inspection plate--I am not sure how the 2006 boats are constructed. I also have a macerator pump--which has rubber mounts as well as ss "legs". This was into the core--I pulled it and put in the plugs as above.

Unfortunately bilge water seems to sit in the bottom of the C Dory25 more than some of the other boats.

Yes, the hull must be dry, as must be any holes--including any core. If you use a urethane, use 4200 fast set. 5200 is too perment for a pump etc. I use 5200 for things which are not going to come off.

[seahooked]

Thanks Bob. That's just the information I was looking for. And yes, I'm talking about screws in the hull not the cockpit floor. Sounds like my main bilge is in exactly the same area as yours however the mascerator is on the wall behind and below the sink. I believe both my bilges are the plastic type with plastic brackets. I think there are some other screws in the hull in this area as well- brackets to stabilize the water tank or some other stuff but I'm just guessing. I have to verify this as the boat's at a marina.
Thanks again.

[R&R]

We just became proud owners of a 22 Cruiser Our first project will be to install curtains. What we plan to do is run teak strips above the windows and snap the curtains to them. How have folks been attaching the wood strips to the interior fiberglass? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

John on the R&R

[thataway]

Remember the sides and front of the cabin of the C Dory line all are single layer (not cored) glass from 3/16 to 1/4" thick. I have often put very small screw holes so I could get a thread of two into the glass-(and I have accidently gone thru the outer layer--a little gel coat repair!).

I like to use a quick set epoxy to put wooden blocks against the hull. Remember that teak is a very oily wood. You want to de oil the surface of the teak with laquor thinner. I would then use a slightly thickened quick set epoxy (a little Cabosil)--or just the quick set epoxy. You might want to sand the surface, which has gel coat on it to get a better "bite" and adherence. Hold it in place until the epoxy is set off. You can try tape, but then you will not get as much pressure, and there is adhesive left, plus chance of poor adherance.

[R&R]

Thanks for the reply, I was thinking of either epoxy or silicone adhesive. It sounds like the epoxy is the better of the two.

[mikeporterinmd]

I was thinking of making some SS pieces of metal, say 1" x 1/2", 1/16" thick.
Drill holes in each end. Remove some of the window frame screws and
attach SS strips. Insert appropriately shaped wood behind other holes and
put screws through holes. I would also probably bond the wood to the
cabin sides using either epoxy or perhaps 4200.

Instead of teak, I will probably use Brazilian Cherry. Looks nice and
costs much, much less. The front of the overhead shelf as seen in
my album is made of Brazilian Cherry.

Not sure where I'm an going to get the SS pieces I need. However, a
friend bought a milling machine of some sort and says we can make
whatever we want to, so I'll probably try him first.

Mike

[Grumpy]

If you are just looking for privacy shades vs "Pretty" then you can fit snaps to the existing window screws and snap on Sunbrella or similar covers.

Merv

[mikeporterinmd]

We want something that will roll up so we don't have to find a place to store
them. We also don't want to block any/much of the window when they are
rolled up, hence the piece of wood to hold the snaps/straps above the
windows.

Mike

[Dora~Jean]

Wouldn't using epoxy to glue the wood to the thin walls be too stiff of joint material? The walls flex, I would think the wood or object would just break off with little force. I tried gluing a towel rack to the wall once, using the best/industrial strength Liquid Nails -- no good, fell off in about 2 weeks with just the expansion/contraction due to heat.

Best results so far is 3M 5200 (or quicker setting cousin); I have many pounds of fishing equipment hanging from the ceiling!

[Pat Anderson]

We put the curtain rail strips up with 5200 - with hot glue at strategic intervals to hold it up while it was setting. So far, so good.

[colobear]

I have used 5200 to hold up a number of shelves/brackets, etc. on the inside cabin walls of C-Cakes. I like the holding power and the flexibility. I clean the wall with alcohol or some similar mild solvent, apply 5200 to both the wall and bracket, and use blue painter's tape as temporary "clamps" to keep the item from sliding down the wall. Clean the squeezeout with a finger and you get a nice seal. Sometimes it takes a lot of tape in odd places but it has worked out fine. I use mahogany instead of teak, it is cheaper and easier to find. The color and grain are very similar to teak. I have also made mahogany blocks which I adhered to the wall as above, and then screwed items such as cup holders to the mahogany when cured. Nothing's come down yet.

[thataway]

There is very little flexability of the cabin side walls, if any. We have a number of items glued with quick set epoxy--knocked off the gel coat--which has wax in it--so you will have problems with any item adhering if you don't remove the surface of the gel coat. The hull is more flexable and does work some, but small blocks can be glued in fine--also you can screw into the top of the cabin, since it is cored, as well as the under side of the deck.

When using 5200 with Starboard, the only way to get it to stick reliably would be to make under cuts to make the Starboard rough. 5200 is great stuff, but even the fast set is a little slow to kick off. The hot glue etc is a good way to keep it in place--tape does not work well in my experience.
There are times when 5200 does not adhere well--then you have more of a mess. I tend to use it with screws as a back up. But have put some on edge material down with 5200.

[Doryman]