waxing, polishing, etc.

[C-Dude]

Can anyone recommend a procedure for cleaning oxidation and waxing and polishing the boat, etc. By hand or by buffer? I have a 2000 22-Cruiser that is looking pretty oxidated and dull and would like to spiff it up and maintain it properly, I just am not sure what the recommended procedure is. I have heard that using a buffer takes off too much of the gel-coat.

thanks

[teflonmom]

The latest issue of the BOAT US magazine had a nice article on this subject. PS also ask at your local boat store.

[Sneaks]

These guys are reputable and have some good articles on restoring the gel coat and keeping your boat up to snuff.

Don

[JT]

I had good luck using 3M Marine fiberglass restorer and wax. Recommended by some on this site. If you do a search here this topic has been discussed previously. I used elbow grease, too.

[Swee Pea]

Try going to www.auroramarine.com and see if you can find a product that will suit your needs. Give them a call if you have any questions. Nice people.

John
Swee Pea

[ccflyer]

I've found Woody Wax products to be very effective, but maybe a bit pricey.
http://www.woody-wax.com/
I first saw them on the public TV show, "Ship Shape".
This product lasts longest on metal but will bring back fiberglass beautifly for a month or two.

Another tip - rather than using a rubbing compound try Bar Keepers Friend.
As many posts on the site attest, it's great stuff.

Phil

[Sea Wolf]

The best investment you'll ever make on your boat maintainence is a 7" variable speed polisher/sander that runs from 300-3000 rpm and allows you to both rub out and wax your boat with ease. The convenient ones have hook and loop quick change bonnets that allow for easy switching back and forth.

This baby, which is what I use, is on sale at Harbor Freight Tools for $29.99:




Here's a Link to their website.

Joe.

[Adeline]

John, Have you used the Aurora products ? They look easy to apply. I've always used carnuba type stuff but Adeline has gotten chalky.

[thataway]

Most professionals I know use 3 M Finesse it. Buffer as Joe recommends--but most have much more expenisve models--I haven't tried the one he suggests. I have a Porter Cable which is similar--but cost a bunch more...

The wax most use is Colinate Fleet wax paste.

Once you get it back to a good shiney base, re-wax every 6 months and the C Dory will stay like new for a long time!

[doc]

Thanks for the link Joe. I went ahead and ordered one of the buffers from Harbor Freight and hope it does the job. What all do I need to get to complete the set-up?

[Sea Wolf]

doc-

The buffer/sander comes with one buffing bonnet, a sanding pad, and some sanding discs.

For buffing, I use two pads, one for the buffing compound, and another for the wax. You don't want to use the buffing bonnet to do the wax, as it retains a lot of the abrasive. Harbor Freight doesn't seem to have a good supply of the bonnets in my local store, so I've had to purchase the same basic hook and loop bonnet made by Makita from Lowe's (like Home Depot) locally.

For the buffing, I don't use a heavy hand rubbing compounds, the abrasive is too course for machine work, IMHO.

Instead I use a buffing compound designed for machine work, 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound, available at West Marine or similar stores, or at automotive paint shops. It's a thick liquid (not a paste), and can be rubbed on lightly and evenly with a rag or sponge, then worked over the surface by the machine until it comes up clean and dry.

The wax/polish is your call, but with a second bonnet and the machine, you don't have to worry about not having the strength/energy to do it right.

One caution: be careful around plastic items, like portholes, through hulls, various fittings, and rubber as well. Excessive heat on these can cause melting and other similar problems. The fiberglass is less sensitive.

Also, I never use my machine on more than the slowest setting (speed) just to limit the heat build up and increase operator control.

Have fun, and let 'er spin away!

Joe.

[Swee Pea]

I have used some of the Aurora cleaning products, and they do work. This spring, I will be using their VS bottom products to see if they work as advertised.

Their claim is that carnuba wax products create a platform for marine growth. In addition, carnuba will yellow with time. I intend not to use carnuba wax products in the future.

Maybe I am a victim of Aurora's advertising hype. But I will try it and test it this spring.

John
Swee Pea

[C-Hawk]

Two years ago I used some crap that was supposed to keep the boat shiny and long lasting--- all it did was streak- and I couldn't get it off. It was a 3 part system.
After two years I noticed that it was finally starting to chalk. Great, time to rub it out.
I bought some rubbing compound, buffing compound and wax.
Yesterday I spent several hours working my arms out with the rubbing compound. After rinsing and drying the boat---- #%^&*$@@@$^&&&*%***** The crap was still there! I removed some of it, but it was still there.

Afterwards I was talking with the new local C-Dory Dealer (located where we store the boat) and he asked what I was doing- I told him.

I'll be danged if he didn't call his detail guy over, show him the boat and tell him to buff it out and make it look like new.

[Dora~Jean]

Roger, does he make house calls?

[doc]

Joe, I finally got my buffer from Harbor Freight. Looks like she will do the job. Now all I need is some temps in the proper range and I'll give her a try. Thanks for the lead and advice.