TAB INSTALL / SWIMSTEP stuck

C-WEED · Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 8:46 pm Post subject: TAB INSTALL / SWIMSTEP stuck

I finally got trim tabs and was doing the install. I was going to remove the swim step and notch a hole so the top cylinder mount could be attatched directly to the stern. After removing all bolts the swim step won't budge. I am sure it has some 5200 holding it on. I used a board and a floor jack to put some pressure on it but it won't break loose. Anybody have some ideas for 5200 removal???

Has anyone just mounted the top cylinder over the swimstep?

Sneaks · Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 8:52 pm Post subject: Re: TAB INSTALL / SWIMSTEP stuck

Yellowstone · Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:57 pm Post subject:

Chris - That 5200 is pretty tenacious stuff but it does have some elasticity to it. I have used this technique several times. By putting pressure on the step, which will show the adhesive line, you can (carefully) use a thin cutting blade like those segmented el cheapos that slip in and out and cut the adhesive slowly, keeping the pressure towards the back of the swim step so if you slip a little, you don't gouge the gelcoat on the stern. It is a bit nerve wracking and tedious, but little by little, you can get it unstuck.
Perhaps there is some liqiuid or paste remover that will soften 5200. Getting rid of the residue is also tedious and I use a one edge razor blade in a holder and slice away a little bit at a time. Eventually just a film is left, and a rough cloth and acetone and gum remover will get the stuff off the gelcoat. No fun and plenty of elbow grease. Can't imagine why 5200 would be used there. A high grade silicone should suffice since the bolts or screws attaching the swim step carry the load. Ask the factory. Good luck.

John

Papillon · Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:31 pm Post subject:

3M-5200 is the most "Misused" product ever invented. It has it's purpose and should be used when structural bonding is required. 3M-4200 and silicone should be used in most other applications. There is a special 5200 solvent for removing it, but I have found it takes time and is not a wonder "drug". Yellowstone hit the nail on the head with his instructions.

CAVU · Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:40 pm Post subject:

I have had good luck removing small pieces where I could get access by using a length of high tech fishing line like spider wire. I always have some on hand since I use it bottom fishing. Form a loop in each end, wear gloves and just pull it through the crack between the swim step and the transom. May require a helper, but it has worked for me with smaller projects using 60lb test line which is very thin. Hope this helps.

Sneaks · Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 3:40 pm Post subject:

WhalerGoFar has a point and I have to add to my post that I consulted with the dealer who added the swimstep and he was quite generous with the 5200 on the swimstep back because he considered it a structural addition. He also bolted it as well. IMHO the effort to remove the step to cut a notch would have meant an enormous amount of work for very little gain. Visually one cannot see a difference in tab travel or useage.

On the other hand, removing the step, notching it, preparing the surfaces again and reinstalling it was, in my opinion, a job I could easily mess up and I do that enough already.

Don

C-WEED · Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:09 pm Post subject:

Well, I'll let the 5200 win out this time. After some thought I'll take the easy way out and leave the step in place and mount the cylinder to it.

Thanks

Not For Hire · Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 8:21 am Post subject:

Another thing about 5200 (4200 also) - I am told that it is the only matching fashion accessory I own. Smile