Questions About Installing a New Chartplotter

CAVU · Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 7:06 pm Post subject:

Thanks Les. I can't remember where I read that.

SENSEI · Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 9:32 pm Post subject:

I rewired the Sensei about a year ago and I went to my local Napa store and had them order in the marine grade wire. I went with #4wire both + & - and they crimped them for me.actualy they let me borrow the crimping tool for the weekend and I was able to get it done that way.
I went with the larger wire so that if I decide to go with a windlas later on it is ready. I also put a 70 amp circuit breaker at the battery box end of the wire.

CAVU · Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 12:44 pm Post subject:

Thanks Roger, another great idea. I will check with my local NAPA. I was planning on using a 30Amp at the battery end. I bought the boat used so I don't know if the factory or the dealer rigged it, but they used an in-line 30A fuse at the battery. My owner's manual has a basic wiring diagram and it also shows a 30A fuse in-line near the battery. I hadn't considered making provisions for a future windlass. Would #4 wire run a windlass and the buss behind the dash? I have no idea what amps a windlass needs, but it must be pretty high.

Dora~Jean · Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 1:07 pm Post subject:

Ken,

Most windlasses sized for our boats will draw approx 30-35amps loaded. Go with minimum of 50 amp fuse/breaker, 70 probably ideal. Remember, the fuse/breaker isn't there to protect your equipment, it's there to prevent an electrical fire from overheating the wire under load in the event of a short. The small fuses (2, 5 amp) feeding your electrical devices are provided equipment protection.

Steve

Sneaks · Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 1:14 pm Post subject:

Ken, I took a cheaper route. I ran #6 from the existing 50 amp breaker near my batteries directly to the Windlass breaker, then over to the existing electrical bus behind the helm, essentially paralleling the existing wire. (Also did the negative bus the same way) I have no problem with voltage fluctuations and my windlass works just fine.

I bought a Harbor Freight crimper that was big enough for #6 terminals and with judicious use of heat shrink tubing with adhesive inside, it ended up very professional looking in spite of myself.

I would say #4 would work just fine for Windlass and everything.

Don

Rabidfish · Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 1:19 pm Post subject:

If the total distance from the (Batt +) through the entire circuit (to the windlass motor) and back to (Batt-) is less than 50ft you can use 6ga wire for the windlass, so long as you don't run anything else on the circuit.

I would run the windlass circuit separate from the "house" system just to keep connections to a minimum and to prevent a windlass malfunction from affecting the rest of the boat. ( for example, a bad ground connection may cause the windlass circuit to find ground through the "path of least resistance". (hope and pray the "proverbial path" is not through an expensive piece of equipment)

Running the "house" circuit separately, you can probably use 8ga depending on the rest of the equipment you have installed.

EDIT: This is just my opinion, without having ever seen your boat. I am certain Les has already installed more windlasses than I ever will. Honestly, 4 a year is a good "windlass sales" year for me.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 3:33 pm Post subject:

Rabidfish-

Your numbers and wires are right on, as far as I know from all the tables, etc. Thumbs Up

Joe.