Lifting 23' off trailer to paint.

[crazy4salmon]

Evening guys and gals. Has been a while. I need to paint the bottom on my 23 this fall. Just getting ready to pull her for the year and will get right on it.

Curious about points to put the jacks/blocks and how many. I assume one in each corner of the stern and a keel jack?

Thanks for any advice. Don't want to just do it on the trailer.

Dan L

[jkidd]

Here's my pictures
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album3394&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[pcg]

And mine... http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album3461&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[thataway]

We all don't have "barns" where we can suspend the boat from the ceiling, and have to work out of doors. I don't have photos, but have used hydraulic jacks to do the lifting, with blocking between the jacks and hull. Some use cement blocks. I have seen these crack under load--and would not recommend them. I use only wooden cribbing--made either of land scape timbers or 4 x 4 and 6 x 6 to take the weight of the boat on the keel. I used jack stands for the stern to balance the boat.

What sequence you use to block the boat off the trailer, depends on the bunks and trailer frame. I will try and move the trailer forward at least a couple of feet on the first lift. That allows good blocking at the stern for the keel and both sides of the transom. Then one jack forward with good cribbing is all that is necessary to walk the trailer out. I prefer to have 3 points of weight distribution the keel, when you will be working under--and a second set of jack stands about at the helm area with minimal weight--but as a safety. Be sure and chain the jack stands to each other to keep them from sliding out.

I build my cribbing up 2 pieces fore and aft, then 2 athwartships. Not just stacking one on the other--unless you are fortunate to have a 15" x 15" piece of timber.

Safety is key. Jody shows the full face mask which is very good. You must have eye protection. When I used to do this, i used a full Tyvek suit with a hood, and nitrile gloves--tape around the cuffs. etc. Home depot has them for $15, Amazon; $12 and Harbor Freight $8. I prefer the cheaper disposable ones, but for some applications I would use a more expensive suit--such as building a boat--where you wear it daily for months at a time. Many professionals use a positive pressure suit/breathing apparatus, but with a good mask and in the open, it is OK for painting a bottom one off with just a good mask and filtration.

[crazy4salmon]

I wish that I had a shop and a set up that I could lift the boat off and then crib it. I will be working on the ground and having to pull my tandem axle trailer with bunks out from under her.

I only live a mile from the boat ramp on a 25mph road. I am thinking of leaving the boat about 2 feet back on the trailer and strapping her down. Don't think the mile down the road like that would be an issue. Then putting jack stands under the back corners will be a breeze. Then lift and crib the front to roll the trailer out. Then add more cribbing on the keel and a couple more jack stands port and starboard mid ship.

She had a barrier coat prior to the last painting. I will just be lightly sanding down to it and putting 2 more coats on of the same SeaHawk 33 paint.

Thanks for the responses. Any issues with my plan?

[thataway]

If you want to do the launch ram thing--only 8 to 10" is enough to put cribbing under the keel, and the two balancing jack stands or cribbing.

Two feet might be a bit far back for the balance on the trailer.

I never found it difficult to block the boat a couple of feet in front of the last cross member on the trailer--and forward enough to ease the trailer forward a foot or so, then put good blocking under the transom, and alternate front supports a couple of times to pull the trailer out. It would take less time than the drive to your ramp, and back.
"

[Robert H. Wilkinson]

As opposed to jacking or lifting there is a method where you back the boat up to a tree and tie it off. Then pull the trailer forward a few feet and add cribbing to stern. Continue pulling forward and add cribbing under keel. Drive off with trailer. To retreive trailer is disconnected from truck and the tonque lifted. Trailer is then winched with a come along from the tree. It is pulled under boat and cribbing removed as it goes. Trailer levels out as it is pulled under and weight setttles back on jack wheel. Hitch it back up to truck and drive off. I have used this method and it works albeit a bit scary the first time. There are Utube videos available to show how it works.

Rob

[Salmon Fisher]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vE8l7o-c8lY

When I repainted the bottom of our 25 I did it the hard way.

Borrowed 3 bottle jacks and placed 2 under aft corners on blocks to raise them off ground. Made a cradle for bow and placed 3rd jack under that and jacked up. Made sure I spread the load from top of bottle jacks to pieces of steel plate then to plywood and that was against hull.

Then ground cloth with plywood sheets on top. Spent the day on my back under trailer prepping and then painting.

Worked well and got another good session of "Boat Yoga" in.

[Donald Tyson]

I don't see a chain connecting the jack stands. Demerits earned! My last marina would have yelled at you.