How to properly solder a PL 259 connector (VHF antenna)

[potter water]

I'm not supporting lousy techniques but I can tell you that I've done a few good communications connector installations and hundreds of ugly ones over 40 years. I never had a failure in the ugly or pretty ones. But, you won't go wrong following the procedures above in this thread.

[Sea Angel]

I failed to add to my earlier notes about the coax and connectors.

The coax cables you most likely will see attached to the VHF antennas will be either the RG58 series or possibly the RG8x, both of these are about 50 ohms impedance. The RG58 is the smaller of the two in diameter and each will require a different adaptor or connector. There are other coax designations out there, but these are the most common.

Please be sure to place the connector shell on the cable before you start to solder the coax to the connector.

Art

[Aurelia]

We were running with a nicely (visual inspection) installed solderless connector but the icom radio just didn't perform well. It has a new antenna so I figured it was that radio or connector.

I have a friend with an antenna test unit and separate radio tester so he brought them over. Based on the results for output/return power and antenna SWR and something I can't remember, he was surprised it worked at all. It was off the charts terrible. We soldered on a new connector and tested again with drastically better results. It really made a difference for us and that solderless connector was fresh and looked perfectly done when we tore into it.

They can work and I had them working (how well?) in the past but I just don't care to use one again.

Greg

[Salmon Fisher]

Just finished my connection last night after using the crimp by Shakespeare.
I received Seattle Traffic on 5A in the yard! Looking forward to receiving all transmissions and being able to transmit.
Thanks Bob!

[BrentB]

I have used solder, Shakespeare gold center pin quickie connectors and crimps.

It seems me that crimping would be more consistent, reliable and reproducible or maybe it is me LOL

[thataway]

I suspect in expert hands, and with good crimps, crimping is excellent. Also there are not a lot of folks who have a ton of soldering experience. So that is a defect of that method.

What has been observed, is that with salt air, even in large boats, there have been corrosion issues, and poor RF connections. If you peel back the insulation and have a good metal to metal contact, and make sure that you have a good center core contact then good to go.

[BrentB]

Thanks

Any comment on coax cable quality? The cable you used is high quality, however I seen some low quality cable being used

[thataway]

Good point. I have no idea what is coming with antennas, these days. If I have a choice I use Belden. I would not be surprised that coax comes from China, which is of far less quality--and many folks would not know the difference.

For marine work it should be tinned. (That goes for all of the wiring), heat shrink adhesive coverings for any open areas is also important. This does not usually apply to PL 259's. but I have been doing some work on a new High Def security system in our house, and there I have been heat shrinking the BNC cables. (as well as power cables), because we are on the water in a high humidity environment.

[Peter & Judy]

I redid the PL 259 connector using tips from Dr. Bob and others who replied. Dryland tests seem good. We are off across the Rockies Saturday and should be on Vancouver Island Sunday night. Hopefully we will have better range on the water than we have had in the past. Thanks for all your advice and hopefully we will see some of you at Friday Harbour in a few weeks.

[Sea Angel]

All points about soldering are very informative and accurate. I would note that you do NOT use plumbing solder, only rosin core solder.

The mixture in solder is often tin to lead, which will help determine the melting temperature and shear strength of the solder joint. Usually you would use either a 63/37% or a 60/40% tin/lead mixture, though a 50/50% is available for this will melt at a lower temp and is not as strong. Solder also comes in different diameters and weights(lengths). Less heat is needed for the smaller sizes.

A second suggestion is to use a rubber(NOT VINYL) electrical sealing tape to WX proof the connection/connector. This is especially helpful when you do not have the right size heat shrink tubing., and it can normally be removed with very little effort.

Though it can be messy, I have learned(practiced) to use liquid electrical tape in many areas. It comes in different colors: red, green,, blue, black and clear. It will withstand even the hot engine arena; as in my engine harness repair/insulation restoration that survived over 12years, and counting. I have even used the stuff to repair vinyl strap coatings. Handy to keep in the toolbox.

Food for thought from just an 'Ol' Retired Guy from Va. Beach making noise.

Art

[Robert H. Wilkinson]

Art, I bought a Weller soldering gun kit back in the late 60's and its still working fine. Used to enjoy soldering but now with the lead free stuff we have in Canada - not so much. Mostly solid wire stuff as well - can't seem to get acid or rosin core here now. Use mostly the crimp connectors inside heat shrink housing.

Good to see you here in Cbrat land again Art. The experience and advise of the older generation is what makes this site invaluable to the next generations of Cbrats.

Regards,

Rob

[thataway]

On the subject of sealing--use of quality products is always encouraged. There is a lot of cheap, vinyl tape around, and completely agree with above, For the heat sink material I favor adhesive lined quality heat sink in the proper size. Heat shrink comes In various sizes, and in several shrink ratios (2:1 to 6:1, most common is 2:1 and 3:1). There are various thickness of shrink tubing, I tend to use what is most practical, but often tend toward the thicker ones. There is a lot of quality difference--stick with standard brands.

Materials: Polyolefin Heat Shrink Tubing is the most common. PVC Heat Shrink Tubing is next most common. PTFE Heat Shrink Tubing (Teflon), FEP Heat Shrink Tubing, Elastomeric Heat Shrink Tubing (highly resistant to chemicals and hydrocarbons), PVDF Heat Shrink Tubing, Silicone Heat Shrink Tubing and Viton Heat Shrink Tubing. There are also tapes and wraps

I try and always use a heat gun, and have several types. Not to use an open flame if possible. There are portable heat guns which do not have an open flame, but heat an element with butane, or cigarette lighter fuel.

Also I use a fair amount of Self-amalgamating tape of ethylene propylene rubber especially around the PL 259 fittings to keep them water proof. Also don't for get the cable clams or other ways to keep the entrance thru the cabin top, or hull water tight.

[Sea Angel]

The acid core is mostly used in metal to metal and plumbing applications.
To iterate an important point is NOT to use any acid solder product in an electrical/electronic application. Electrolysis will be activated and corrosion will do you in.

A quick story of a new student in a military school where I taught in Memphis, TN. and how the type of solder can undo you hard work.
The student decided to save some money and bought the cheaper acid core solder at the hardware store. This was in the days when we would buy a HEATHKIT TV, or other stuff. You guessed it, he completed the TV over the weekend and was so proud of it. A couple of days later he came in wondering why he could not figure out why it did not work.
After a detailed look at the solder work, and there it was, corroded joints. He spent the next couple of months undoing all the solder joints and redoing them. He came close to declaring it a loss, but he did get it to work with patience.
MORAL of the story... RIGHT TOOL for the RIGHT JOB and yes, read the directions.