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How to replace slant-back cockpit cover

 
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Wood Zeppelin



Joined: 09 Feb 2016
Posts: 333
City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1997
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Creature
Photos: Childhood Dream
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2024 9:04 am    Post subject: How to replace slant-back cockpit cover Reply with quote

On a 16' cruiser, I lost the slant-back cockpit cover. I am wondering how to replace this?

And even if someone has a "pattern", what about the button locations? The male stud part of the buttons from the previous cover are already installed on the boat, so how would the mating socket buttons on the new cover be located such that they align with male portions already on the boat?

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James Salay - Real Estate Broker / Investor, Engineer, Artist, Fisherman, Canyoneer, Outdoor Enthusiast






Current boats:

1997 22' Angler - "C-Creature"
1988 16' Angler - "E-fishn-C"
1997 16' Cruiser - "Wet-a-Net"

Also:
14.5' Drift Boat - "Wood Zeppelin"
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jkidd



Joined: 23 Oct 2006
Posts: 1644
City/Region: Northern, Utah
State or Province: UT
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Voyager
Photos: Voyager (JK)
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2024 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as the snaps go they make some that have a sharp nail sticking out of them. So you lay the new canvas on with the nails sticking through the canvas and that marks the spots where the new snaps go. If your going to make the top yourself you can buy pattern plastic from Sailrite.com . They sale the snap kit as well. Or just take it to the canvas shop they already know how to do it.

https://www.sailrite.com/Quick-Fit-Kit-in-Waterproof-Box-Snap-Positioning-System

https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Patterning-Material-78?quantity=1&custcol_yards=2

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Jody Kidd
KE7WNG
Northern, Utah

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WCF



Joined: 21 Feb 2023
Posts: 80
City/Region: Central
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2024 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is one of the easier large-scale canvas projects you can do yourself. I love Sailrite, but there are less expensive sources and methods for almost everything they sell.

The easiest way to get a snap installed in fabric where it needs to be is to hold it where it needs to go with spring clamps, double sided tape, or temporarily with your hands, and use a chalk pencil to find the center of the snap and mark it from the other side. The sailrite system is certainly a little more convenient and accurate, but also has some drawbacks: Namely you're putting a hole through your material even if you haven't finalized the tension or location.

Probably more than you want to know, but the general process I used with some tips:

- Sew two lengths of canvas together length wise, oversized with your preferred seam. There's no need to pattern this because the center section pretty much has to be this shape/construction.
- Use double sided tape on top of strapping tape to hold your new center section fore and aft on the boat, from the cabin top to wherever it will attach aft. Use clamps if there's anything that is pulling too hard.
- Rough cut the center section as needed; I like to keep everything as oversized as possible until it starts getting in the way or needs to go.
- Use scrim fabric to pattern the triangle-shaped sides. I really like the Sailrite fiber reinforced stuff (available from masonry/construction supply houses for less if you can buy a lot of it) but you can also use cheap house wrap. Use the same double sided tape on strapping tape technique.
- Sew together the side panels.
- After you have everything sewn together rough and the general shape, you'll have to add any darts, as well as reinforcing or chafe patches. If you've used lightweight material, you will definitely want reinforcement everywhere a snap might be installed. You can pre-plan all this stuff for a potentially nicer looking result.
- Wait as long as you can to add snaps and add them incrementally to double check the fit. This is a lot easier if you are using a Pres-n-Snap tool or similar.
- Cut your outer edges fair in a manner that will work with your binding and binder.
- Use binding to finish the edges; you don't have to use expensive Sunbrella Binding, there are lots of less expensive products sold as lightweight webbing that will feed into a binder and work great.

This is probably obvious, but: Depending on your construction, you might wind up with some very thick seams to step over. Make sure your machine can handle that. You also might wind up with a very heavy assembly that will try to deflect your needle. Working on the floor is my preference if you have a portable machine.

Good luck and show us the results!
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 21118
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2024 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have access to a sewing machine which will sew several layers of "Sunbrella"? If so then use the patterning material to make the pattern and then sew it up. I would use a hot knife (I have a 150 WATT soldering gun with the correct blades).

For the material if you do not have the sewing ability, I would use the Sherter-Rite material from SailRite, it comes in 61" widths, so there will have to be several seems. I use the light grey color. It is put together with HH66 glue. You then need a snap setting kit: $57 from Sail rite. (I have more professional grade setting tools, because I have been doing large projects for a number of years.). I do the fabric. You have to have a vinyl bolt rope for the awning rail on the top of your cabin. (Or snaps if it so equipped). You should be able to put together a good slant back for just a little over $100. I would do the pattern first, and then buy the Shelter-Rite ($23 a yard)...the pattern material is 5 yards for about the same price. The five yards is more than enough. I would put the 61" width of the finished product straight back from the top of the cabin house, vinyl awning rope/track. Then use another couple of yards of finish material on the sides, which are going to be trimmed to give a precise fit. Be sure and double up the Shelter-rite where you are putting the Snaps. I also include a small square of Dacron sail cloth glued between the layers of the vinyl. Again, I have sailcloth because of my sailing days, and making/repairing sails. Not necessary, but it is stronger. Take photos and share with the group. If you run into problems, send me a PM.

You will probably have enough of the shelter-rite to make a shade/rain fly for the foredeck so you can leave the hatch open when it is raining, Also keep the sun off the deck.

_________________
Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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Wood Zeppelin



Joined: 09 Feb 2016
Posts: 333
City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1997
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Creature
Photos: Childhood Dream
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2024 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for all the help guys.. I will ponder whether to DIY or not..!
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Wood Zeppelin



Joined: 09 Feb 2016
Posts: 333
City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1997
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Creature
Photos: Childhood Dream
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2024 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hear there was a shop somewhere north of Seattle called "King Marine Canvas" that had patterns. Is it better to go with someone who has a pattern than just a full custom job somewhere else?
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jkidd



Joined: 23 Oct 2006
Posts: 1644
City/Region: Northern, Utah
State or Province: UT
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Voyager
Photos: Voyager (JK)
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2024 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe call King Marine Canvas and ask them a few questions.
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Wood Zeppelin



Joined: 09 Feb 2016
Posts: 333
City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1997
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Creature
Photos: Childhood Dream
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2024 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jkidd wrote:
Maybe call King Marine Canvas and ask them a few questions.


Yes, that's what I ended up doing! This boat is now in Southern Utah though.. Assuming I need to bring it into a shop...?
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jkidd



Joined: 23 Oct 2006
Posts: 1644
City/Region: Northern, Utah
State or Province: UT
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Voyager
Photos: Voyager (JK)
PostPosted: Thu Feb 29, 2024 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In that case take it to Sugarhouse Awning in Salt Lake. They do good work.
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Wood Zeppelin



Joined: 09 Feb 2016
Posts: 333
City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1997
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Creature
Photos: Childhood Dream
PostPosted: Thu Feb 29, 2024 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jkidd wrote:
In that case take it to Sugarhouse Awning in Salt Lake. They do good work.


Great, thanks!
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Wood Zeppelin



Joined: 09 Feb 2016
Posts: 333
City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1997
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Creature
Photos: Childhood Dream
PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 5:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I've gotten replacement quotes between $650-$1050. I'm really disappointed I lost mine. BTW, were slant back covers something that cam from the factory, or are they all add-ons?
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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
Posts: 4752
City/Region: Madison
State or Province: WI
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most the ones I know about were after market. I have had all my covers custom made at a local shop.
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