Starting from Scratch on a CD 16

[Salish_Explorer]

Hi all,

New member and new CD owner here, looking for any advice from what is clearly a very fun forum. In a nutshell, I'm starting from scratch on an older hull that was a bit abused by the prior owner. My goal is to build the very best, most capable shore camping/exploration platform I can without spending my kids' whole inheritance, and capture some of that lovely C-Dory style!

Backstory: This month I paid $5,500 for a hull with a solid Yamaha 50 (4 stroke) - and the engine is about the only solid thing on it. The electronics were wired by someone who had no business changing a lightbulb, and from bow to stern the prior owner covered it with hardware mounted using mild steel fasteners and brackets - which have of course now wept have streaks of rust. The wheel bearings on the trailer were so shot that while the mechanic was moving it around the yard, one of the wheels all but fell off. And of course, like a cherry on top - they plastered a giant 'Gomakatsu' decal across the bow: Women love him folks, fish fear him!

So, aside from maybe a tootle out to Blake tomorrow, step one is a weekend with the grinder cutting all that sh** off, and then another weekend with the sander doing gelcoat repair. Thankfully she was a utility build to start with, so I have no fantasy of a boat-show result - just something clean and solid.

The mechanic tuned the carbs, replaced the steering and wheel bearings, and did a good walkaround with me talking through what the boat has in the way of systems (being slightly larger than most dinghies and all). The rest is up to me.

Along with the abrasive work, I'm planning to completely re-wire, add a large-format chartplotter, add a kicker/get-home motor, and add all new fuel lines with a Racor F/W separator.

Major Questions

Loading
I'm planning on setting padeyes in the center of the cockpit to accomodate strapping down one cooler and one gear tote. The full camping loadout will be that plus duffles in the bow carrying what I'd call a 'heavy backpacking' or 'light carcamping' setup - call it 120 pounds of gear, 20 up front and 100 aft. Is that overloading, with two adults and two little kids? Will the 50 still plane with that kind of load?

Range
What fuel consumption rate have other 16/19 owners found?

Kicker
For safety only, I'm planning on adding a kicker. The Yamaha 8 and 9.9 are the same weight (87 pounds): My impulse is to get a 9.9 high-thrust - a motor I know can push even my 9,000 pound sailboat through a stiff chop - is that overkill? What are other 16/19 owners using for kickers?

The Hull
I understand CD's have some balsa coring - is this in all flat surfaces? [/i]Topside only? Hull?
Are the voids at the stern foam filled or empty? Has anyone added watertight hatches for dry storage?

Systems
I'm going to forego radar for now, but having a sailor's distrust of a hull that won't self-bail, along with completely redoing the electronics I want to set up at least one direct-wired Rule 10 2000 GPH bilge pump. Any ideas on mounting locations?
Additionally I will be doing a large chartplotter, with separate sounder and VHF/GPS/AIS combo

Seating
I want to add at least one folding padded seat for my son - any ideas on placement/brand? A kind CD16 owner showed me Garelick folding jumpseats mounted to the gunwhales on theirs, just aft of the main seats, but they appear to not be made any more.

[Salish_Explorer]

I should add, one thing I will definitely be looking hard at, after reading about the stern drag issues some people talk about, is moving the battery as far forward as I can (at the expense of 10+ feet of 3 ga. copper :-/)

[dotnmarty]

As far as I recall, there is no stern drag issue on an angler, That balance discussion related only to the cruiser model. Leave the batteries where they are. As for adding a seat, I built at box with a padded cover over the portapotti
Some years ago I bought an angler in similar condition to that you describe. I had all the screw holes repaired and put a new trailer under it. The next owner really brought back to excellent condition. These wonderful boats never die, nor do they fade away. Here's wishing you all the best.

[Marco Flamingo]

Two adults and two kids is basically loaded, IMHO. The Yamaha 50 (which I have) is about the max weight you would want on the transom. I had a Suzuki 2.5 on the back sometimes when travelling remote and solo, but I usually think that the extra weight on the transom is a penalty I'm not willing to pay. For local inland water, probably better to spend that money on a good VHF, a Towboat US membership, and regular outboard maintenance.

From what you have said about the PO's use of mild steel hardware, every screw/bolt installed is suspect. Fortunately, it's a small boat. Most important is going to be penetrations in the bottom of the hull (battery mounts, bilge pump fasteners, seat fasteners, pad eyes for a cooler). I'm not sure if the little front deck on the Angler model is cored. It is on the Cruiser, so front cleats, navigation lights, etc., can be places where water can get into the core and rot.

I've easily gotten over 9 mpg at hull speed, but I would figure just under 5 mpg for a loaded boat on plane.

I made sure that I could find smooth-walled hose for my Rule bilge pump. Make it as straight and short of a shot as possible. There's a picture in my photo album under Modifications. Install in the sump area at the transom. That area isn't cored on my Cruiser, but I'd be tempted to use an adhesive and skip drilling for fasteners.

We have used aluminum folding backpacking chairs onboard, but only at anchor, not when on plane. The dory hull on plane can go from smooth to a slapping bounce in a boat length. My back can't handle that without a really cushy seat.

[srbaum]

For mounting things to the hull, like hold downs and wiring, I have had great success with Weld Mount products. My last boat's wiring and numerous times on my current boat have various mounts, for different applications. I had previously used this product for mounting items on ships and boats. Go to the manufactures web sit and take a look at all of the various fastener configurations. This attached photo shows a few mounts that I've recently installed.
PS, the product is expensive, so I store it in the refrigerator and it is still in good shape, after 3 years.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album3482&id=Weld_Mount_and_Webbing&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

[Salish_Explorer]

[Salish_Explorer]

Side note/update - I will post some pictures as soon as I can figure out how to upload/link them here.

[NORO LIM]

[dotnmarty]

how to get a seat for at least one of the rascals in the lee of the cabinhouse.

[srbaum]

Salish Explorer,
First off do you have a name that you would like us to address you by?
As to the Weld Mount system, they have fasteners that have a texture on the back, to aid in adhesion. Secondly, went you put a dab of the two part glue on the fastener, mix it in place on the fastener, with a toothpick or other item. You can then fasten the fastener to a top of the cabin, or to a vertical surface and it stays there. Also the stuff is able to have a load on it rather quickly.
So, 3M5200, could be used, but you would have to support it until it cures, you would be cleaning up a mess and you would not have the fasteners that Weld Mount produces, that provide workable solutions for hold downs and have a back that is made to aid in bonding.

[Salish_Explorer]

[Salish_Explorer]

[thataway]