Help! Fine lines in gelcoat on 2004 16 that I might buy

Wolfeboro

The boatyard out on the Mississippi that I hired to survey the 2004 Cruiser 16 that I might buy and ship a thousand miles to New Hampshire has sent me photos of fine cracks—very fine—in the gelcoat, extending from the aft end of the rub rail around onto the transom—on both sides. The cracks are very fine, but they are on both sides. I’ll post some photos when I can, but right now I am in the boondocks visiting in-laws.

Is there a hull/deck mold joint right on the angle where the rub rail is mounted? Are fine cracks in the gelcoat common at this place on the hull? A couple of boats ago I had (and loved) a 2001 Bristol Skiff 17 that had been used as a workboat, and it had some surface cracks that did not affect its water-tightness. But the heavy layup of those workboats was different from C-Dory’s.

These fine cracks are of course above the level of the transom’s motor mount, which I believe is indeed a hull/deck joint.

Any advice that you can offer would be appreciated. The rest of the boat seems solid and smooth and clean. As soon as I am back in civilization (if New Hampshire’s Lakes Region can be called “civilization”), I’ll post some photos.

Many thanks!

—Rick

ssobol · Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2023 2:45 pm Post subject:

Very fine cracks in the gelcoat are stress cracks. These happen pretty much to all FG boats. The older the boat, the more cracks. Also, the more you look, the more you'll find.

If the cracks are very fine, they are also very shallow. Yes, they can be repaired. Is it worth it to do so? Not for most people. Even if you fix the ones you have now, more will develop over time. Mostly in the same places (i.e. where the stress is).

thataway · Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2023 4:20 pm Post subject:

Your album is empty. Having photos is very helpful. To check the transom, but full body weight on the lower leg of the outboard when trimmed all of the way up.

What did the surveyors find in moisture reading and sounding out these areas? Did he do the "Transom stress test"?

The hull to deck joint is behind the trim / bumper around the boat. It is also on the top of the transom. The transition from where the aluminum rub rail ends and the top of the transom, in a straight line is where the hull to deck joint is located.

Proper fix is use a Dremel pointed tool, and grind out in each of these lines a V shaped down to good glass. Probably not very deep if "stress cracks". Then fill the V and fair the top, perhaps respray the area, and sand polish to match the rest of the hull.

Wolfeboro · Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2023 9:48 pm Post subject:

[img] https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-0PD9emJVg9kjOZ9R333Clyxx9iVUyAa[/img]

Wolfeboro · Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2023 10:13 pm Post subject:

Many thanks for the responses. I’m on the road right now, working from a hotel room on an iPad. The GoogleDrive link should be in my last post. I’ll work on setting up a proper album when I get back to soggy New England tomorrow evening.

I’ll ask the surveyor tomorrow about the transom test.

Thanks!

—Rick

chieftele · Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2023 11:28 pm Post subject:

My 16 has cracks in the gelcoat in the same location. Like you suspected, it’s at the mold joint. No big deal. I sealed mine up with a little epoxy.

thataway · Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2023 12:07 am Post subject:

Here is the correct URL for the photos.

Those are at the hull to deck joint. There is a lot of filler there as well as the bend. Not to worry. Epoxy is fairly UV sensitive. I like epoxy in boat repairs. But if you use it in an area exposed to sun, it is a good idea to either gelcoat over or paint over to give UV protection. Epoxy will accept gel coat if properly prepared.

chieftele · Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2023 8:41 pm Post subject:

“I like epoxy in boat repairs. But if you use it in an area exposed to sun, it is a good idea to either gelcoat over or paint over to give UV protection.”

Thank you for the valuable information Thumbs Up