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"Setting up" a trailer for a C-Dory?
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BBlalock



Joined: 31 Jan 2017
Posts: 138
City/Region: Ocean/ICW
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Finale
PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2021 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob, Tom and others

Here is a link to my trailer:
https://www.loadrite.com/trailer-type/boat-trailers/?type=bunk the 5 Starr is mine.

I did pm Tom telling how I use my trailer. My boat is on our lift 24/7 except if big storm is coming or dealer service is needed. Launch is 6 miles away and dealer is 3 miles from the launch. I don't do any long haul towing.

I will request an album.

I would have thought with C Otter's model# being the same that the bunks would have been the same.

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'13 25' Cruiser "Finale"
'12 22' Fiesta pontoon(sold)
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Avidmagnum12



Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 668
City/Region: Ocklawaha
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2011
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Otter
Photos: C-Otter
PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2021 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 5 Starr is a galvanized trailer. The C-Otter’s is aluminum. The way you are using your trailer make it a good choice. Galvanized trailers are typically heaver than aluminum but coat less. I’m not sure why they put different bunks on. Mine also has side aiming posts and front aiming bunks which I consider a must. No PM yet but I’ll contact you when I receive it.

Tom

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Tom and Joyce Schulke

2011 CD 25 "C-Otter" 07/2015 to present
2011 CD 25 "My Girl" 06/2015 renamed C-Otter
2004 CD 22 Commuter "Out2C" 03/10 to 06/15
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2021 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Benton, I looked up my trailer and it is:It is :
LRAB28T8400L102BT2
. I confirmed this on the trailer frame decal.

Aluminum frame, Flat bunks, the gal steel support for the bunks, cutout in the back for retrieval and the target bunks.

Is your trailer: galvanized frame (5 star). 8,000# capacity, and bunks set on edge with bevel?
Do you have target bunks as an option?

The two linked pages show the difference in bunk system if you scroll down on the page.

It appears that the 5 star trailers have galvanized frames. Or if you do have the aluminum frame, that someone ordered the on edge bunks as a custom feature?

I would be concerned with the area of hull support if the bunk is beveled and the hull resting resting on the bevel.

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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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BBlalock



Joined: 31 Jan 2017
Posts: 138
City/Region: Ocean/ICW
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Finale
PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2021 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have talked with my trailer dealer and we will wait for Tom's pics of his setup. We will then get the proper bunks and setup.
Thanks for all the input.
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BBlalock



Joined: 31 Jan 2017
Posts: 138
City/Region: Ocean/ICW
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Finale
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My trailer is aluminum. There are some galvanized parts but the I beams are aluminum.
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BBlalock



Joined: 31 Jan 2017
Posts: 138
City/Region: Ocean/ICW
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Finale
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My model# is the same as Bob and Tom's. That is the aluminum 5 Starr. And it is 8400# capacity per the sticker on the trailer.
There is a galvanized 5 Starr with a totally different model# and 8000# capacity.
This was in stock and we did find some C Dory 25 pictures on the internet appearing to be using the 4x6 bunks. So we thought that would be ok.
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BBlalock



Joined: 31 Jan 2017
Posts: 138
City/Region: Ocean/ICW
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Finale
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for all this but if you go to the link I attached earlier my trailer looks exactly like the aluminum 5 Starr with the 2 guide posts, 2 4x6 bunks and the guide front bunks. Smile
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BBlalock



Joined: 31 Jan 2017
Posts: 138
City/Region: Ocean/ICW
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Finale
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom,
I sent you a pm with em and phone.
Benton
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Benton,
I apologize for confusion I may have caused. When I click on your "Link" I get the general page. The 5 star appears to be a galvanized trailer. (which link I gave).

My trailer and Tom's are set up exactly the same.

So you have the aluminum frame, as many of us have, but with the aft bunks on edge (generally used for deep V hulls). Ours are pictured in the link I provided, and are flat on the top 2 x 6 and are supported underneath by galvanized hardware, which will pivot. An essential of this setup is the "target" small bunks forward.

It could be possible to use a planer to arranged the edge contour of your bunks to accommodate the progressive small deadrise of the C Dory 25, to give maximum support. (Removing the cover, contouring the wood, and then recovering.


Lets see what Tom says.
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BBlalock



Joined: 31 Jan 2017
Posts: 138
City/Region: Ocean/ICW
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Finale
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob and Tom,
My brain had a disconnect when looking at the model#s. I see your different model is the same except for the 2 long bunks. Mine do not articulate. I am going to get with the dealer and arrange a swap for bunks like yours and then use Tom's numbers to set up.
I don't want to make my bunks work.
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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
Posts: 4522
City/Region: Madison
State or Province: WI
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For future posts on the subject, would be great to have photos of your actual trailer. I had the same issue going to that link, in that it opened up a general page and wasn't all that clear which trailer you had. I too used Tom's measurements initially, but then tweaked them a bit to work for me. At one point I dropped the bunks down to the lowest holes, allowing to launch a little easier in shallower water, and giving the boat on the trailer just a tiny bit of a lower profile. That also allowed me to move the boat back just a hair on the trailer as the bunks also moved back while being moved down. However, soon after that, I realized that this also allowed the hull to touch the fenders if the boat was not centered well on the trailer, so back to the higher bunk holes. Where I stand now, even if I end up slightly off center, the hull still clears the fenders. I've also moved the aft side posts to just about touch the boat on both sides. This helps center it when I'm solo, however, it also requires me to stop when the boat hits the posts as I'm driving on, as they tend to twist it throwing the bow off center. (Remember, the boat's beam is wider near amidship than it is at the bow or stern. So at that point, it is actually squeezing between the posts.) Turning the motor in the appropriate direction will get the bow lined up before proceeding. Depending upon ramp incline and water level, sometimes I won't back in as far, requiring to power load, and not using the target bunks, (as they are several inches below the hull when boat is sitting hard on the main bunks), or other times using the target bunks to position the boat, and then winching it the rest of the way on as it slides on the target bunks until the bow is high enough thereby causing the hull to rest more squarely on the main bunks. One other caveat in setting up the trailer. And I learned this from the Hull Truth blog. Especially with the aluminum trailers, they tend to bend more at the front of the trailer. So part of setting everything up is getting the boat on the bunks where you want it, and then setting up jack stands on the frame just in front of the axles. Rolling up the tongue jack to take the weight off of it, will allow the aluminum framing to hang free without the weight of the boat baring down on it (as the jack stands are holding the weight of the boat in their location). At this time, adjust the bow stop/mount/winch to fit the boat appropriately. Once you remove the jack stands and lower the tongue jack again, the boat's weight will now be distributed on the main bunks and the front bow stop/roller, and not placing as much stress on the front tongue. Colby
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Colby.
I believe that you were suggesting that jack stands go under the boat? not the trailer frame??

I prefer to put concentrated loads on the keel/and then use jack stands to balance the boat. Always try and spread out loads when putting solid points under the boat, even for a short period of time. Ie a 2 x 8 with jacks behind that--maybe a steel plate to distribute the load of a jack to the wood. I have multiple hydraulic jacks and 4 jack stands to use when lifting or moving the boat on the trailer...
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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
Posts: 4522
City/Region: Madison
State or Province: WI
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I believe that you were suggesting that jack stands go under the boat? not the trailer frame??


Quote:
setting up jack stands on the frame just in front of the axles.

Perhaps the way I stated that is misleading.

No; the jack stands go under the frame. Between the ground and the trailer frame.

From a blog on the Hull Truth: " I had read on one of the threads about "Properly" setting up a alum trailer you first placed blocks under the main beams just in front of the axles, then lowered the jack until the weight was off of it. Then adjusted the winch/bow stop to the boat."

Colby
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BBlalock



Joined: 31 Jan 2017
Posts: 138
City/Region: Ocean/ICW
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Finale
PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2021 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Colby,
Thanks for your input. Sorry my link was so bad.
I went into your albums and saw the pics of your LoadRite when doing the bottom paint. That is what my trailer will look like once I get the AB bunks.
Benton
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BBlalock



Joined: 31 Jan 2017
Posts: 138
City/Region: Ocean/ICW
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Finale
PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2021 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the A,B bunks for my LoadRite trailer making it proper for my 25' C-Dory. Using the info received from you guys I have installed and adjusted the bunks. Now all I need to do is load the boat and double check my handiwork. Thumbs Up
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