View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
garyf
Joined: 01 Sep 2015 Posts: 167 City/Region: Lincoln
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1991
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Story
Photos: C-Story
|
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 7:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Re: Backing plate... as with anything else, opinions will vary... I believe some people here used nothing more than large "fender" washers, but you'll see that there's a recommendation/assumption in the Lewmar manual that the deck which you attach the windlass to be at least 1" thick and the C-Dory deck (at least mine, anyway) is just over 1/2" thick in that area. I backed mine with a 12" diameter disk of 3/4" plywood and used fender washers on that. _________________ Gary Frerking
C-Story
'91 22 ft Cruiser
'08 Yamaha 90
KC3PO |
|
Back to top |
|
|
starcrafttom
Joined: 07 Nov 2003 Posts: 7902 City/Region: marysville
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1984
C-Dory Model: 27 Cruiser
Vessel Name: to be decided later
Photos: Susan E
|
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 7:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
wa500. you are in seattle area right? I am in marysville. you could come take a look at mine to get an idea of how its done and hit me up with questions. PM me. _________________ Thomas J Elliott
http://tomsfishinggear.blogspot.com/ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
smckean (Tosca)
Joined: 18 Jan 2014 Posts: 975 City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
|
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 7:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
wa500,
Do it! starcrafttom knows his shit......you'd be nuts not to go see him. Frankly, I think the job you are contemplating is bigger than you are giving it credit for. _________________ Sandy McKean
Purchased Tosca in 2014
Re-powered to Yammi 200 in 2015 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wa500
Joined: 11 Oct 2020 Posts: 61 City/Region: seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Horse
Photos: C-Horse
|
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 7:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
starcrafttom wrote: | wa500. you are in seattle area right? I am in marysville. you could come take a look at mine to get an idea of how its done and hit me up with questions. PM me. |
Yes I am. Do you have a C-dory 22? Or is the install identical? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wa500
Joined: 11 Oct 2020 Posts: 61 City/Region: seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Horse
Photos: C-Horse
|
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 7:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
smckean (Tosca) wrote: | wa500,
Do it! starcrafttom knows his shit......you'd be nuts not to go see him. Frankly, I think the job you are contemplating is bigger than you are giving it credit for. |
It'll probably be more annoying than I suspect; but honestly; the most concerning part I have is drilling the hole and the epoxy. I'm good with all the electrical and wiring stuff.
It still looks very DIY-able. The direction are pretty bad from Lewmar though.
Next time don't buy a boat with a missing anchor? I suppose I could just replace the anchor/rode and walk away from it without a windlass... but I fear that will be annoying solo. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
smckean (Tosca)
Joined: 18 Jan 2014 Posts: 975 City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
|
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 7:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Quote: | It still looks very DIY-able. |
It is. It's just that if a newbie mistake occurs in this area during the install, or during post install use, the consequences could be massive.
Another option, if you are in a hurry, would be to cruise several days without a windlass (but with the new anchor) and get a feel for things. Then tackle the windlass install with that anchoring experience under your belt. (You might find you don't even care about having a windlass.....many small boats don't.) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Desert Dory
Joined: 09 Sep 2006 Posts: 180 City/Region: Tucson
State or Province: AZ
C-Dory Year: 1989
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Desert Dory
Photos: Desert Dory
|
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 8:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
wa500 wrote: |
I will order a spool of 8 gauge marine wire. I assume it goes directly to the house battery?
|
It's recommended you wire to the start battery, not your house battery. I "think" the reasoning is you'll have the engine running when you're using the windless so you'll have alternator juice going to the battery anyway.
I recently added a Lewmar 700 Pro Fish to our C-Dory also. It's a fun project and not hard at all. Take your time and all will go well.
One thing I would do different (Thanks Bob for setting me straight after the fact) is not drill the GIANT 3" hole thru the deck but, instead, match the hole on the gasket that comes with the windlass.
Pics of my install are in my album here:
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album3269&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
|
Back to top |
|
|
thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 20988 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
|
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 10:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Quote: | Can I just drop Solder and heat shrink tubing and hit it with a heat gun
like I do for automotive stuff instead? |
ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council), and NMMA (National Marine Manufactures Council) standards call for crimped fittings. The rational is that solder gives hard fittings which will crack under strain and with vibrations. I believe that the same rational is used in aerospace applications--although as we all know that on circuit boards solder is used (but in that case fully supported.
I have done some crimping and soldering for the very large lugs. Now I have a set of dyes which fit cables up to 4/0, so no longer do the dent and solder "crimp". I also older PL 259's for antennas. The only time I have soldered on the C Dorys has been for very fine wires. I also go overboard on the heat shrink adhesive. Even the salt air can and will corrode the wiring. I re-wired our Cal 46 as part of the rebuild at age 20 years. It was amazing how much corrosion there was in the wiring. (But the boat had seen charter service in the Caribbean before we bought it.).
Many of our C Dorys are over 20 years (some getting close to 40 years), and often it is time for improvement in the wiring. I find that many boats, as we add lighting and electronics) that the factory wiring was not adequate. Add up the max amp draw of each appliance and put in wiring for no more than 3% voltage drop in wiring to the console.
Yes the windlass should be connected to the starting battery, and the engine should be running when you hoist the anchor. The windlass is just for hoisting the anchor. It is not designed to pull the boat to the point over the windlass (you drive the boat to that point) taking up slack with the windlass. The over the anchor, tighten up the line and use the boat to break out the anchor. Then the windlass pulls the rode, chain and anchor to the surface, and up over the roller.
If you have zero boating experience I recommend that you buy a copy of Chapmans Piloting and Seamanship. It does not have to be the latest 68th edition. Also take either a Coast Guard Auxillary or Power Squadron course in person. Often you can get some in person experience on boats with people you meet in the class.
You may or may not want to study a book on 12 volts on boats. Although the theory is somewhat similar to cars (but no metallic body for ground), there are a number of things which are unique for boats.
There is a web site: On Marine how to do it--mostly electrical. I don't agree on the use of the butyl tape for mounting fittings, but most of the other information is valid. Many of us really old guys are opinionated for some reason...
Desert Dory thanks for jogging my memory, I did put in two round holes at each end of the gasket and connected them with a saber saw--which was narrower than the 3" hole and fit the template. I don't remember the size of the hole saws I used, but I believe it was in the 1 1/2" range-just big enough for the chain and rode to go thr without any abrasion on the edges... _________________ Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
Last edited by thataway on Thu Apr 08, 2021 10:48 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
garyf
Joined: 01 Sep 2015 Posts: 167 City/Region: Lincoln
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1991
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Story
Photos: C-Story
|
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 10:21 pm Post subject: |
|
|
[quote="Desert Dory"] wa500 wrote: | I recently added a Lewmar 700 Pro Fish to our C-Dory also. |
Nice install - what's the source on that extra switch you added inline for the windlass? I need to add one of those. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wa500
Joined: 11 Oct 2020 Posts: 61 City/Region: seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Horse
Photos: C-Horse
|
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 10:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
"If you have zero boating experience I recommend that you buy a copy of Chapmans Piloting and Seamanship. It does not have to be the latest 68th edition. Also take either a Coast Guard Auxillary or Power Squadron course in person. Often you can get some in person experience on boats with people you meet in the class."
I signed up for the USCG Aux ABS (Or ABC?) course for May. It's their 6 hour boating course, which I need for the WA state boater ed card too apparently. It's all on Zoom these days though.
Thanks for the heads up, I just bought an older version of the book off ebay. At 967 pages, it's longer than the airplane flying handbook |
|
Back to top |
|
|
T.R. Bauer
Joined: 17 Nov 2007 Posts: 1786 City/Region: Wasilla
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Whisperer
|
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2021 10:09 am Post subject: |
|
|
You have had a lot of good recommendations here. There are a lot of good ways to install the windlass and quite a few wrong ways too. I know about the wrong ways - I usually do it that way according to some people. But I can see you're really into it and committed in my opinion. I think you're going to do a great job. The big things are that you want to seal things up so your core doesn't rot, which is not hard, you don't want to burn your boat down in an electrical fire, and you won't if you put a circuit breaker in the line, you want it to be sturdy and safe, and you want it to work. I don't know your skill level first hand, but on a scale of 1-10 this is close to a 3 when it comes to the technical aspect and somewhere in the middle as far as time involved goes. The biggest time investment will be in waiting for your epoxy to dry. As as the chain goes, I think 25 feet is enough for a CD 22 and more isn't always better given the size of the locker on your boat. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
smckean (Tosca)
Joined: 18 Jan 2014 Posts: 975 City/Region: Guemes Island (Anacortes)
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tosca
Photos: Tosca
|
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2021 3:02 pm Post subject: |
|
|
T.R. wrote: | ...you don't want to burn your boat down in an electrical fire, and you won't if you put a circuit breaker in the line.... |
Just in the interests of safety, not to be critical......
This statement is not exactly true. A circuit breaker only provides over current protection such as with a direct short; and true, if you have a dead short without a fuse or circuit breaker, you're going to burn something up (at least the wires); but high resistance at a connection, or loss of insulation that allows current to flow, but not enough to trip the breaker, can cause heat and create a fire too. Indeed, my boat had a fire once at the shore power fitting for exactly this reason.
Particularly on a boat, one's connections and wire size must be rock solid. Circuit breakers are not a cure all. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Desert Dory
Joined: 09 Sep 2006 Posts: 180 City/Region: Tucson
State or Province: AZ
C-Dory Year: 1989
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Desert Dory
Photos: Desert Dory
|
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2021 5:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
[quote="garyf"] Desert Dory wrote: | wa500 wrote: | I recently added a Lewmar 700 Pro Fish to our C-Dory also. |
Nice install - what's the source on that extra switch you added inline for the windlass? I need to add one of those. |
That's just a battery on/off switch I found on Amazon. The 50amp breaker that came with the windlass is mounted in the starboard lazarette right next to the start battery. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|