Multi Connection Battery Terminals

[WeekiTiki]

What are y'all using?

Looked in archives but

[thataway]

Basically there should be one terminal connection to the battery--Some put a bilge pump, the Wallas stove. The recommended procedure, is one cable from the battery to a battery switch. This should be a short run. There does not need to be a fuse between the engine starter and the battery--but for all other circuits-yes.

From the "All" or common, terminal of the battery, would go to the engine start, and a circuit breaker--40 to 60 amps depending on the boat. After the broker there would be a terminal block, with cover, from which all circuits in the back of the boat feed off--in my boats that would include the wallas stove, the bilge pump, trim tabs power etc.

For the negative : lug for the cable from the battery (and other batteries), as well as the engine negative. There would be a wire to a negative terminal block (not covered, but should be protected by some anti corrosion spray or grease.

[T.R. Bauer]

I don't disagree with Bob, but there is an argument that it really doesn't matter that much either way as long as you don't make a mess of things. I have two wires on the positive - one to the engine and the other to the distribution block. The negative is the same. People like the blocks because they keep the corrosion away from critical connections and help prevent voltage drop. My wallas is happier for some reason wired right to the house battery, but have never really figured out why. At this point, it basically gets what it wants and if its happy, so am I.

[robhwa]

[WeekiTiki]

Saw something similar but brass, without the plastic heads on Ship Shape TV

Linky

Boat has dual batteries, both with dual terminals

large terminals on number one battery I use for charging

large terminals on number two battery are vacant
and I want to connect another 12v cigarette/USB charging bank

[WeekiTiki]

And as far as the Wallas stove

Still haven't tried mine

Did buy a gallon of Clean Fuel though

[thataway]

The Wallas needs 12.6 + volts to start. Often there is enough resistance, if the terminals are not fully clean and free of corrosion the voltage will drop.

The LiFePO4 battery has a resting voltage of 13.4 to 13.6, and does not drop to 12.6 until 80% discharged! Any connection near the LIFePO4 battery should have over 12.6 volts. Some folks need do have the engine running to start the Wallas--I have never had that problem.


Wiki, 4 wires are allowed to be attached to the terminal under certain conditions by ABYC. Here is a video by ABYC on proper use of the stud terminal--not the battery post.

The reason I feel that the wires should go to a switch, is that you can then isolate each battery. If the starting battery, you can then just turn the switch to allow use of the other battery to start the engine. You might say that you can have the switch so it will connect the two batteries--but still have the start battery hard wired. If the start battery is shorted, then it may pull down the house battery to a point where it would not start the engine.

Also in many cases boaters may not have a "combiner" (VSR) between the batteries, and need to use the "all" setting on the switch to combine the batteries for charging of the house.
Here is some of the ABYC directives. This is not "law" but best practices.

[starcrafttom]

[smckean (Tosca)]

[Robert H. Wilkinson]

[thataway]

When I can, Use double crimp fittings, with adhesive lined shrink tubing attached. If not attached, then I will place a piece of tubing with adhesive lining.

I always use the double crimp tool.

I use but connectors, and if possible wiring with be in vinyl sheath--and I put shrink tubing over the outer vinyl..

ABYC allows soldering, if the wire is well supported. Their argument is that the wire becomes more brittle and like a solid wire, subject to vibration. Our aero space engineers can weigh in--but I believe that most joints on airplanes are crimped.

I find myself soldering fine wires--such as the ones used for the LED Aisle lighting and lighting inside all of the cabinets--They were mostly #22 wire, which was already primed with solder.

There can be crimp failures...and I have seen some very "creative crimping" with #10/12 connector and # 22 wire..

Earlier I had mentioned AWG vs SAE wiring. For those who do not follow this:

AWG (American Wire Gauge) wires are 3-12% larger diameter than SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), with an accompanying larger carrying capacity. AWG has more thinner strands and is more flexible. As noted before marine wire should be tinned.

When we bought our Cal 46, she was 18 years old, and we know she was in charter in the Caribbean for 10 of those years. We ripped out every wire, and most were original. There was some corrosion thruout all of the wiring--even in the middle of 30 foot runs of wire. I don't know if the wire was originally tinned. Some seemed like it was. I don't think it hurts to seal the end of all wire terminations, with the adhesive shrink tubing--you can keep corrosion at a minim.

[Foggy]

The Holy Grail for all electrical connections: dry, tight, clean.

Aye.

[starcrafttom]

I heat shrink everything. In the boat car truck house plane. if its got a crimp its got heat shrink and the grease. No corrosion is the goal. Even a very thin white corrosion that you can barley see is enough to cause you problems down the line. Remember its just not water its moisture that corrodes.

I just buy the connections with the heat shrink built in.

I use this on everythinghttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6B1VW9?psc=1&pf_rd_p=0341f622-1508-4712-8614-4588a55d8cf4&pf_rd_r=M4320XTTQKRWGQJJJ66G&pd_rd_wg=n31R7&pd_rd_i=B01N6B1VW9&pd_rd_w=YRhYn&pd_rd_r=eca1e653-cbd2-4a87-acb7-f5c40d2d63d1&ref_=pd_luc_rh_ci_mcx_mr_huc_d_03_03_t_img_lh

All plugs get hit with this or corrosion X. took the motor cover off and any plug in the wiring harness got the gel. I like corrosion X in a spray can for the out board. Just pop the top and mist the whole motor ( not belt). Once a year and I have no corroded bolt or screws. spray the batteries and fuse panals to then wipe off excess.

[smckean (Tosca)]

[T.R. Bauer]

Even air does. Unless it's a noble gas.....