Securing the anchor

[garyf]

[NORO LIM]

Here's what I did so I could operate the windlass through the hatch from the V-berth or out on the deck.








Having watched a cellphone slip out of my pocket and make a slow walk across the deck and into the drink, I decided against a wireless switch. I also liked not having to worry about misplacing it, or recharging its batteries.

[PNW_Wesley]

[hardee]

IN 1500 hours and well over a hundred nights anchoring, plus some days of anchoring several times a day, I have only once, had to be on the foredeck dealing with an anchoring issue. Over the night, I managed to wrap a metal structure like a shark cage up in my chain, and when I was retrieving, (weighing) anchor, I noticed the change in the windlass sound (grunting?) and then in a few seconds saw this piece of metal sticking up in front of the boat. I was in a tiny bay and pretty sure my anchor was still on the bottom. I had to go out on the deck with some extra line, tie off the metal sculpture, go back to the helm and let out some chain, then back out onto the fore deck and unwrap the chain. Then hand retrieve the chain and anchor onto the foredeck, then drop the sculpture (some sort of frame like a tuna tower), and back out of the bay.

It was several trips Foredeck to helm and back. Fortunately it was a quiet morning, no wind, low slack tide and nobody looking so I could take my time. Had it been otherwise, I could have just put it all back onto the bottom and waited. AS it was, it was uneventful, other than the hour it took me to get bottom free.

That is the only time I have wished for windlass control from the foredeck.

Harvey
SleepyC

[journey on]

Gary, to answer your question: I have a C-D 25 with a Lewmar windlass. The Up-Down switch is below the wheel so I can use it at the same time I'm controlling the boat. The anchor always launches by it self. Sometimes it's windy, or current or etc. and I have to put it in gear and give it a boost. On retrieve, the same applies only more so. Actually Judy's usually on the bow, washing down the rode and anchor or getting rid of the seaweed.

That said, I need a switch by the wheel. It's a simple matter to wire another switch in parallel by the hatch to control the windless when you're working through the hatch. So, I feel you would need 2 switches. They can be light duty since they control a relay.

I've never been able to climb out of the hatch on the 25. Of course that may be because I'm getting old (think thataway, Dr. Bob.) Just try reaching out and controlling your anchor before you anchor, to see if you can do it. Practice, it's a bear to learn in real time.

Boris

[NORO LIM]

[garyf]

Thanks for the tips.

I've got a Lewmar as well (22 Cruiser)... not fully installed yet, taking my time since this is the first time I've done anything this major on the boat. Making holes, properly sealing, doing some rewiring, etc. I'm not in a hurry!'

Good to see there's a wired remote, first time I saw that. I'll check it out, might use it... or might stick with the current plan of a second set of switch(es) just inside the hatch. The standard switch at the helm is a given, and I imagine I'll use that most of the time if not all of the time.

Always good insight in here!

[Foggy]

An anchor flopping around or coming loose at the wrong time can ruin more than
your day or night.

Since an ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure, I chose to do
the former on my 26 Venture early.

The basics are in a few photos in my W B Nod album marked 'untitled'. I used 2
offset collapsable D-rings as to avoid toe busters and split the forces on them.

Didn't like working in the anchor locker much but got it done.

Aye.

[hardee]

Ahhhaaa, I found it. (FYI there are 9 sub albums in the WBNod album. ONLY 7 of them are titled "Untitled" so it didn't take toooooo looonggg.
I though about putting that pix out here but then I woud be spoiling your fun

Nice idea and fairly simple. Thank you.

Harvey
SleepyC

[gulfcoast john]

Gary,

We like the Lewmar remote wireless fob in addition to the hardwired helm switch because:

No additional wiring is required, once the transceiver is wired...simplicity.

We had the wired Lemar control on trailer boats #11 and #12 and didn’t like it because the coiled wire was too short a tether, and no matter what you do a toe-stubber switch on the bow is going to always be getting wet.

We don’t want to have to access the bow through the hatch unless it’s an emergency, despite the shower curtain protection over the cushions. TC255 owners should install extra handrails over the 2 catwalk deck plates and aft door.

Eileen has a coiled wrist tether for the fob on her wrist. It won’t fall off. If it did, it’s waterproof and it floats. The batteries are lithium button cells that last 3-5 years in light use. All those concerns are NA. Yes it costs more, and any reasonable skipper might prefer to invest in something else instead. We have had the wired remotes, and we like the wireless fob much better. A MOB+ is another great idea that Harvey has convinced me to look into.

Take your time looking into all these issues, and hopefully you will still be cruising your boat 8 years down the road, like us!

Happy Shopping!
John

[Hunkydory]

We’ve been using our Lewmar wireless windless control since 2015. Before that all our anchoring, a considerable amount was done by hand without wireless or windless. Our wireless controller like the one for the autopilot has a neck lanyard, which negates all potential losing or dropping concerns making it easy to switch back & forth from the neck to the dash mount. Many times, I just use dash controls, but especially when solo very handy to use from the forward hatch or bow deck. Where the wireless control really shines is going to the beach bow first. There one can get off the boat grab the anchor by hand & walk it to the desired set place, then put the desired tension on it without multiple trips to & from the boat. And even easier when wanting to leave by just picking it up & walking to pulpit while bringing in the rode. Jody saw me doing this at Lake Powell & the next year he had one too. The wireless control can also make the final positioning & tension easier when going stern to shore & anchor dropped off shore.

I secure the anchor with either a mechanical pin lock system like Bob posted or rope when trailering & some times when knowing I’m headed into very rough seas.. Most of the time while on the water, the anchor is just secured by the tensioning of the windless. Normally the preference being, the convenience & quick drop of the anchor if needed over the bad that could come out of the rare chance of it dropping unintentionally.

Jay

[Baxter]

going down the road I just heavy duty shock cork in addition to Lewmar windlass holding. Keeps it from shifting around.

On water in good weather keep shock cord on.

If bad remove it for quick deployment, never had had to do as we are fair weather
sailors, but never know what weather or other emergency will bring.

Also have second anchor for deploying in stern, a Sanford 150' of rode. 6' of chain.

Bow has 20' of chain and 200'. of anchor rope.

Not saying this is right but has worked for me for years.

[Moxieabs]

We use our wireless remote on Widget to do what we call "The Widget Back Step". This consists of backing onto a shore by setting the bow anchor at an appropriate distance from shore. Then, with the engine in reverse, the Admiral at the helm to steer & cut the motor off and me on the swim step controlling the engine tilt(cowl button) and letting out the bow anchor line with the remote until I can step off in knee deep water with 50' line and a small anchor for the shore.

After everyone is ashore pulling Widget off shore enough to account for the tide/waves is easy with the remote. Engine & hull never touching the bottom. Ready to depart the beach, then use the remote to put slack in the bow anchor line and hand pull the stern close enough to step on. Saves dragging a dingy or loading up the inflatable and allows the Admiral to collect pounds of sea glass on various islands in our cruising area.

The range of the remote initially seemed a little too short for some situations but a longer antenna wire at the receiver solved it.

Dave

[thataway]

Great use of the remote..Either Jay or Jodi did this at Lake Powell with a wireless remote...I had forgotten about that.

When we anchor in non tidal water, stern to beach, it is more of a fire drill. My wife stays on the bow, and we let out enough scope to still have us in water deep enough to run the motor. I then set the anchor with reverse. note now far the boat is from shore, then let the boat ride up on the chain/rode and estimate how much more rode will be necessary--we let that out, and Marie secures the anchor--comes aft, and is ready to step off as I back the boat to the beach-raising the outboard as we shut it down--hopefuly in a couple inches of water for the C Dory to float. 95% of the time we get it right...Fortunately we err on the being short of the beach, rather than too much rode laid out.

[hardee]