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Leaky Cockpit Hatches in C-Dory 25' Cruiser

 
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dread



Joined: 06 Apr 2012
Posts: 89
City/Region: Berkeley
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Tessa
Photos: Tessa
PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 5:21 pm    Post subject: Leaky Cockpit Hatches in C-Dory 25' Cruiser Reply with quote

in 2008 there was a string of comments about leaky cockpit hatches in the 25' Cruiser. The string stopped, but did the leaks stop too? If so, what was the fix?
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dotnmarty



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
Posts: 4196
City/Region: Sammamish
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: LIZZIE II
Photos: Lizzie
PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start with this one I guess
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=13378

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"...we're all in the same boat..."
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

25 hatches, to my knowledge, still leak and always have. I've seen some home-designed fixes which all incorporate some sort of "truss" placed on the underside of the hatches to discourage the curving that causes the leaks. That and thicker seals installed. Haven't done it myself, but the bilge is always so wet, it's an experiment in mold/mildew down there.

The design is just inherently bad to begin with.

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The link MartyP gave is for the Lazarette on the 22's. The 25's have been a problem. There are some aluminum hatches which can be retrofitted--expensive, and may not be as flush--plus a fair amount of work. I agree, it will still probably be wet there even with good hatches...
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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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Matt Gurnsey
Dealer


Joined: 11 Nov 2008
Posts: 1532
City/Region: Port Orchard
State or Province: WA
Photos: Kitsap Marina
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've often wondered if some additional ventilation for the bilge would help with the moisture problems, and help prevent mold.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt,
The 2003 25 we owned (and rebuilt the cockpit floor on)--had a grid like system, and we considered rebuilding it--and putting in good water tight hatches--such as BOMAR Flush Watertight Cast Aluminum Hatch
Model # 10791846 Manuf. # C41524-H (at $1079 each) We didn't have time and didn't think the cost would be worth it, to get dry compartments. The construction of girds keeps circulation or air down.
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt, I had the battery compartment hatches open all winter and the boat was covered w/ a Sunbrella cover; the cockpit stayed dry. The bilge is still an experiment in mold, mildew...getting out the Clorox & water mix this weekend. Rolling Eyes
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Aurelia



Joined: 21 Aug 2009
Posts: 2331
City/Region: Gig Harbor
State or Province: WA
Photos: Aurelia
PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed an aluminum brace on one of our 2005 hatches and it helped to straighten the curve significantly. It did not make the hatch waterproof of course. One way to avoid filth in the bilge is to keep the cockpit dry with a huge camperback and leave a bulkhead hatch plus one small round hatch in the side step open when not in use. That worked for us and only some basic wiping with paper towels and simple green a couple of times in two years kept it clean and dry enough down there to use for storage of a variety of gear.

A solar vent combined with some minimal method of air intake would likely do wonders but where to put them would be a tougher choice. Maybe a weather resistant solar vent on the wall of the splashwell or in hatchcover and clamshell intake out of the way closer to the cabin side.

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Greg, Cindie & Aven
Gig Harbor
Aurelia - 25 Cruiser sold 2012
Ari - 19 Cruiser sold 2023
currently exploring with "Lia", 17 ft Bullfrog Supersport Pilothouse
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Matt Gurnsey
Dealer


Joined: 11 Nov 2008
Posts: 1532
City/Region: Port Orchard
State or Province: WA
Photos: Kitsap Marina
PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

localboy wrote:
Matt, I had the battery compartment hatches open all winter and the boat was covered w/ a Sunbrella cover; the cockpit stayed dry. The bilge is still an experiment in mold, mildew...getting out the Clorox & water mix this weekend. Rolling Eyes


Wel, at least you can donate the boat to science when you're gone.

Or maybe contact a local university to see if they want to conduct experiments on mold in the bilge.... Rolling Eyes
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breausaw



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 1222
City/Region: Anchorage
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Triple J
Photos: Triple J
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of the previous 3 owners of our 07 25 must have attached aluminum bracing to the lazarette floor hatches; of course they still leak. I was thinking of trying the plastic wrap seal and release calking trick. What I would do is clean and dry the lower gaskets really good, wipe down with acetone to enhance bonding. Apply copious amounts of 4200 quick cure alone the outsides of the gaskets. Then cover the whole area with plastic wrap; close the lid and latch.

The plastic wrap will allow separation after the calking cures, could be a little messy. I would also smear plumber’s silicon paste on any area you don’t want the calk to adhere to... If it’s done right all the gaps around the hatch should be flush with the deck after cleanup and trimming off the excess.
Not sure if 4200 is the best fit for this, blue Permatex form-a-gasket might be a better choice. In that case I would remove the old gasket entirely. Any ways, that’s the basic idea. I suppose you could use plumber’s silicon paste as a releasing agent instead of plastic wrap.

Just some thoughts..

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2007 22ft C-Dory Triple J 2007-2012
2007 25ft C-Dory Triple J 2012-2018
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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
Posts: 4522
City/Region: Madison
State or Province: WI
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In another thread somewhere, I can't find it now, I mentioned that my hatch was leaking and I couldn't figure out how to tighten the latch mechanism. Well this evening I figured it out. Had to get a flashlight on the problem. Once I was able to actually see the thing, I found there is a small plastic cap on top of the screw that holds the latch together. This is on the inside of the boat. Once I found the screw, I was able to tighen it up. It was pretty loose, so I'm hoping that was the problem. Guess I'll find out with the next solid rain. Colby

Look closely, and you can see the screw that was hidden by a small plastic cap inside the latch.
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DayBreak



Joined: 16 Jul 2017
Posts: 838
City/Region: Monmouth, Or.
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2018
C-Dory Model: 23 Venture
Vessel Name: DayBreak
Photos: DayBreak
PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job Colby,

We also had a very small leak from our forward berth hatch. Once I found that small black screw after removing the plastic cover hiding it and tightening the screw a bit, the leak stopped. Once the screw is tightened just a little bit, the handle feel is more firm and the securing of the hatch will have more resistance as it is locked. This adjustment will pull the hatch down more firmly on the gasket seal. Problem solved!

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DayBreak, 23 Venture, 2018 - present
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bilge stays dry since I replaced the hatches. Would recommend it. Only "issue" is the new hatches are slightly higher than the sole now, maybe 1/2" at the most, probably less. Pics in my album.
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
Posts: 3593
City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're talking about the hatches in the cockpit floor, here's how I solved the problem. As said above, they are ~1/2 in above the floor, but they keep the bilge dry.

Installing Cockpit hatches

Boris
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tsturm



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 1134
City/Region: Soldotna
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: JMR TOO
Photos: JMR-TOO
PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2021 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

localboy wrote:
Matt, I had the battery compartment hatches open all winter and the boat was covered w/ a Sunbrella cover; the cockpit stayed dry. The bilge is still an experiment in mold, mildew...getting out the Clorox & water mix this weekend. Rolling Eyes


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