Second Bilge Pump Install

[covalbro]

Greetings all!

I'm looking for any feedback/insights on installing a second bilge pump on my 2002 C22. We have the factory installed pump under the galley cupboard with a pass-through at the floor out of the back wall into the cockpit. This generally does the job while underway or after hosing down the cockpit, but it isn't at the low point of the deck per se. This pump leaves a small amount of water on the cockpit floor, with more towards the stern (especially when the fuel tanks are full). To remedy (mainly after rain events during the PNW "shoulder" seasons) we use a small hand pump to get the last bit of water up and out. I'd like a more permanent solution that doesn't involve me heading down to the marina to pump after any level of precipitation.

Ideally I am looking to install a second bilge pump as far aft as possible--near or in the drain plug deck cavity. The wiring seems pretty simple since the battery is nearby, all I'd need is a fuse and a switch. The discharge is where I'm less confident. The most simple would be to go straight up into the splash well which already has a through-hull drain hole, maybe adding a one-way valve in the plumbing to prevent backfilling on a following sea? I'd like to avoid drilling another through-hull in the gunwhale area--but if that's what needs to be done I'm open to learning how!

Has anyone done this already or are there other solutions out there that folks have tried in an effort to automatically drain the deck from the lowest point? Thanks so much in advance for your insights!

Cheers!

[ssobol]

My '08 22 has a pump in the bilge sump at the drain plug at the center aft of the boat between the fuel tanks. This pumps up a hose (with a check valve) to a through hull on the left side of the hull as seen in this image:



One outlet is for the live well and the other is for the bilge pump.

The pump can be seen here:



The boat came from the factory this way.

Only thing I did was to put in a new drain plug, lower down in the hull. The original plug opening is too high up and allowed about an inch of water to remain in the sump even with the plug removed. This was hard on the bilge pump when this remaining water froze.

[hardee]

I would add "YES" add the aft pump, and make it as high flow as you can fit in there, and that includes large (1.5 or larger) smooth bore out flow hose. Discharge overboard preferable, but splash-well could work, but it is going to take longer to get that weight overboard when you are relying on the small drains of the splash-well.

Harvey
SleepyC

[thataway]

If our 22 didn't have the aft pump, we added it. The ideal is to open the area up where you want the pump, take the core out, then lay glass (ideally with epoxy) to make a sump back there. You can epoxy (Gflex) the foot of.) the bilge pump. (Rule is fine, and allows you to depress two tabs and lift out or change the pump.)

Put a fuse in the line between the bus bar aft and the pump--you can run a new line (#14 wire should be OK) from the pump to a second bilge pump switch at the dash.

As for the discharge. I like a loop in the line as a siphon breaker...one way or check valves do prevent back flow, but they often stick and diminish the output of the pump. Not a big deal to put a thru hull in the side of the boat (not transom, which is cored)

[R407c]

Hi caralbo,
When I put a bilge pump in that location. I just ran the dishcharge water line up over the starboard fuel tank and then up and out the opening were the hydronic steering lines, engine cables and fuel line come out of into the engine well. The hose stickers out 8-10 inched into the well and the end of the hose is probably 5 inched above the bottom of the well. No check valve needed.
Mike

[gstraub]

I put a pump in that area and then used the thru hull for the live well for the discharge, since I don't need the live well.

[covalbro]

Thanks all! I've ordered all my parts (I hope) and will give it a go once they arrive. Silver lining of the quarantine is more time for boat projects I guess! ...Just no running to the hardware store each time I realize I've forgotten a part/tool. Fingers crossed.

Much appreciated friends!

[chucko]

I put the older rule 500 there, its model 25s, the newer version 25SA has check valve built in. Just Fyi
Keep in mind when you go from the 25s to the 25sa the bases are NOT interchangeable so be thinking about an adhesive that's forgiving.