Quick way to seal exposed core

[curioustraveler]

One of my first projects before launching my new to me 22 Cruiser is proactively re-sealing screws and hardware. I'd also like to pull off the lazarette hatches and the rod holders the previous owner installed and seal the exposed core. I know the best way to do this will be with epoxy but I'd like a quick fix for now so I can focus on the more urgent projects. I've very little experience with epoxy and don't want to mess with figuring them out right now.

Can I just place a strip of butyl tape along this exposed edge and press it in to protect the exposed wood, and then rebed the hardware? Obviously if I find it's all rotted when I remove the hardware then it'll be a different process.

[JMacLeod]

To be honest, it doesn't look like the builder or dealer removed or "plugged" the core on any through bolts I've taken off so far, but If you're going to go through the trouble of taking it all off, do 100% of whatever you plan to do before putting the bolts back.
I find if there's not enough time to do it right, there's almost never going to be time to do it over.
Every day brings something additional to maintain or fix, even on a brand new boat.

I also found this video from Sailrite on bedding hardware helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Upksj19lyU
After playing around with some different sealants, I found the butyl tape easiest to work with for a beginner.

When I finally cut into the roof for the A/C hatch and the radar arch cables/bolts, I'll be sealing with the thickened epoxy like you mentioned above.

[ssobol]

[localboy]

Epoxy is not rocket science. Mix two parts via the proper ratio, stir until completely mixed. To thicken, use one of many additives (Cabosil, hi-density filler etc). Be sure to wear the proper PPE like a good mask, as the fibers from the fillers are no bueno for anyone's lungs.

If you purchase West Systems along with their pumps, the proper ratios are basically one pump each can (resin/hardener). The stuff will sit in your shop/garage until you need to mix it. The cans I have have sat on my workbench for a couple of years already. No issues.

Personally, I use butyl tape only for stuff that is thru-bolted, not just screwed, and I still seal off the core with mixed non-thickened epoxy.

For screwed items I seal the core with thick epoxy, re-drill & bevel (aka countersink bit) the top and install the screw with sealer (last hatches I used 3M 4000). The top bevel creates a sort of "o-ring" as long as you don't mess with the screws once they are installed. With this technique I have epoxy sealing the core AND sealer on the screw AND at the top of the screw/items affixed. So far, so good.

I'm a "do it right, do it once" guy...I try to make it "fun" or a learning experience. But sometimes, it's just a PIA.

This may help, if you have not seen it:

https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/bonding-fasteners-hardware/

[Desert Dory]

[thataway]

I am of the school that it only takes a couple of minutes longer to do it correctly. I understand that some love butyl tape. Manufacturers do it because it is cheaper and faster. Every fitting I have removed which had butyl tape for a sealant, has had dirt and evidence of moisture getting under or over the tape.

[curioustraveler]

[quote="Desert Dory"][quote="curioustraveler"]One of my first projects before launching my [b]new to me[/b] 22 Cruiser [/quote]

So Curioustraveler, did you end up pulling the trigger on this boat?

I've been watching your other thread and didn't see anything definitive. Just curious as it looked like a great deal.

Also, WELCOME![/quote]

Sure did!

[Desert Dory]

[tsturm]

[curioustraveler]

[quote="Desert Dory"]

Excellente!!! Let's see some pics![/quote]

Just added a few.

[hardee]