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journey on
Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 3597 City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
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Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 11:54 pm Post subject: C-Dory 25 Windshield Wipers |
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Judy's wiper (port side,) died on us last summer. Soaking it in silicone spray finally didn't work. I waited as long as I could, hoping for a miracle, none happened. So, here is the story of fixing a C-Dory 25 wiper, as in replacing the old with new. It's chronological, so one can read as far as one cares. Or one can just look at the pictures.
Removing the Wiper Arm
First, removing the old wiper arm. The first picture shows the setup as supplied by the factory, pantograph arm, drive arm and wiper blade. It's easy to remove the blade and separate the pantograph arm. Removing the drive arm is a bit more difficult, as has been discussed in several threads. There are 2 ea set screws as shown in the next pictures. They're at the top of the hub, so they're not immediately obvious, but they're there. If you can't find them, it may be that they're covered by a black plastic cap. See the pics. None of mine were tightened, but then, one can check. The next step is to pry the hub off the splined drive shaft. And there's the problem. That hub is pot metal (according to the importer, Marinco) and corrodes in salt water. I had removed both arms several years ago, so I knew they came off. Well, I lie, because they didn't this time. Ground a slot down the side and removed the arm. The pantograph arm is swaged to the joints , so it can't be removed, unless one removes the mount, which I did.
Actually I removed both arms to convert to single arm and get a clean windshield since the corroded joint prevented the hold down spring from holding the blade against the window as shown below. I can unequivocally state that not one set screw was tightened. Further, I suspect that no-one tightens them after installation, since they are a real bear to get to, under the cabin brow. That also prevents one from using a puller.
Removing the Old Wiper Drive
So, now I removed the windshield wiper drive , 2 bolts and it slid back through the mounting hole in the windshield. Removed the cover (4 screws) separated the motor and gears from the drive shaft.
The motor worked well, turning the gears with great abandon. The other end of the drive trail, the reciprocating shaft, with the knurled knob on the end, though, was stuck. It's a brass shaft supported by a brass tube as shown above. And the shaft bearing was stuck to the support shaft. So that drive was figmo.
Installing the New, Fancy, Cheaper Wiper Drive
On to replacing the motor. C-Dory used a Marinco AFI 1000 Wiper Motor with a 1.5" shaft, P/N 36181, as shown below. The cheapest I could find that for was ~$160, so don't ever say C-Dory's were built with cheap parts. I bought an Schmitt Ongaro Waterproof Wiper Motor, P/N 33611. It has 2 speeds, twice the torque and a stainless output shaft all for $90. All I care about is the stainless shaft. The installation is shown in the next picture. It fits in the same place, I just rotated it 180 deg for better clearance. Note the SPDT switch above the motor, so Judy can run her wiper to please herself.
Installing the Single Arm
Next, I wanted an all stainless wiper arm. Not only are the original arms hard to get off due to the pot metal hub corroding, but the arm and hub joint corrodes and prevents the spring, inside the arm, from pushing the blade down on the window. Also the pantograph arm was wearing out at both the upper and lower ball joints. Replacement pantograph wipers started at ~$90 each, so I went to a single arm. I found a set of the correct length, 12 1/2”, all stainless AFI arms. Got the last 2 in captivity for $50 ea. Good stainless apparently isn't free but these were the only ones Marinco would guarantee all stainless. The external installation is shown below. The blades are the stock 15" blades.
Mans Best Friends
I can't remember how many times I've used the Dremel to remove corroded, bent and broke hardware. It was the only way those old arms were coming off, since one cannot get to them with a puller. Alas, they're stuck up under the cabin brow. So I just ground a slot with a rotary file and pulled them off. Since I didn't want to repeat the process with the new stainless arms, (actually since they are made of stainless, I can't,) I installed the arms with a liberal coating of silicone grease. Now most silicone grease these days comes from China, at least that's what it says on the tube. I found some good stuff that doesn't melt or wash off. Made by Dow-Corning, a tube costs $45 and should last the rest of my life.
Boris |
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journey on
Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 3597 City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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Just a note. Those allen set screws on the wiper arm are 2.5 mm. In addition I don't know how anybody could reach them to tighten after installation. Remember they may have a black plastic cap over them.
Also, if the motor keeps on running more than 1 cycle (max), there's a set of contacts that disconnects the parking power when the drive gear reaches the parking position. Just remove the cover and next to the round gear, you'll see a set of points. Clean them with some emery cloth and reassemble.
BTW, the power for wiper parking comes from the lower fuse box at the front of the starboard bulkhead. Two lower orange wires, one for each wiper. |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 20825 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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Now Boris--the first set lasted 10 years. Pretty good for "marine grade pot metal" .
Seriously I have no idea why they are made of pot metal, since some of the better windshield wiper shafts (like on trucks--I cannot vouch for all cars), have a brass fitting, which makes a lot more sense. Good tutorial on your solution--and the reason I carry a Dremel tool in the kit on the boat!
For only about $800 you can get an Exalta setup, with SS shaft, all marine parts and panographic wipers--the cover is $99 extra. After all its marine! Of course it is probably made in China also! _________________ Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL |
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journey on
Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 3597 City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
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Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 12:25 am Post subject: |
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Bob, I wondered how some of the C-Dorys wipers fair that get a lot more use than Journey On. That boat sits for ~80% of it's life under a tarp in a place that gets 8" of rain a year.
Adding up all the ocean trips we've made, that's probably less than a year of salt spray. And of course, it's only the wiper arms that get direct spray, the corroded shaft is buried behind the arm.
The Ongaro drive I got has non-magnetic shafts which I assume is stainless and cost 1/10 of the Exalto (of which I've never heard.) And is made in China.
Anyway, we'll now see how this drive works over the next 10 years.
Boris
PS OK, Bob, I just looked them up. A Dutch company and the boats that are used for the wiper pictures are of the likes I'll never board. Imtra is their US distributor. To quote their ad:"This exquisite Wiper Motor is superbly created to a level of supreme nature and contemporary style." Which is why I can't afford it. |
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olsurfdog
Joined: 13 Nov 2009 Posts: 179 City/Region: Carmel Valley
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1989
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Summer
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Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 7:23 am Post subject: |
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Boris
You can get small carbide tips with shafts that will fit your Dremel tool. They will cut stainless. I have some I got years ago for my flex shaft. They're an industrial item - I think I got them at Grainger. Don't know if Dremel makes a similar item? Dremel dose make small thin cutoff wheels that can cut ss. They are delicate (thin) and wear out fairly fast but will do the job.
Thanks for the good write-up on your project! _________________ Michael
______
I am where I am
Because I was where I was |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 20825 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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The Dremel Ezy Lock metal cut off wheels are mesh re-enforced, and work far better than the thing 7/8" discs (which I used for years). There is also a plastic wheel, and other accessories for the Ezy Lock hub. |
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jennykatz
Joined: 15 Dec 2003 Posts: 1678 City/Region: naples
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 23 Venture
Vessel Name: Little Treasurer
Photos: Jennykatz
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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 12:17 pm Post subject: wiper |
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thanks _________________ retired 8/08 from UAL, still working pt tm
Duck c-22 cruiser sold 6/23/08
06 Venture Cruiser with merc115CT
00 cd16 cruiser honda 40 sold 3/12 |
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BTDT
Joined: 07 Jan 2011 Posts: 322 City/Region: Grand Lake Oklahoma
State or Province: OK
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: C- Lark Wine Down
Photos: C-Lark
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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 11:38 am Post subject: |
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Thank you 'journey on' for this thread. Saved me time and money. Very impressed by the fit and quality of the Ongaro motor not to mention the two speed setup and stainless shaft. I also ordered the stainless steel pantograph arms and 12 inch blade. Wow! Talk about heavy duty! The arm uses the very common automotive type slip on 'U' fitting for easy blade replacement while the blades also come with two adaptors
After reading all the threads on wiper arm removal I gave a quick try at manual removal but found both allen screws and arm were frozen to shaft. I covered the window with a board, and used a 20 volt recipro saw with a metal blade for thick metal. Took less than a minute to cut through the shaft. I was over water so taped arm & blade to boat to avoid 'that sinking feeling', but boat is ten years old and found pantograph arm joints loose and in need of replacement.
Ongaro part numbers:
Two speed motor part number - 33611
Pantograph arm 12 to 18 inch stainless 33670
Wiper blade 12 inch 33012
Note- These parts are in made in Taiwan for Schmitt & Ongaro Marine Products
Next step is to reset gearing and will give final gear box set-up number and letter for Tomcat and C-Dory 25 when finished _________________ John & Vicki Clark
C-Lark Wine Down
Tomcat 255 |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12633 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Sun Feb 23, 2020 12:53 am Post subject: |
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Boris, I just saw your note on another thread with the link to this thread. WOW, sure wish I had found this before I replaced my port side wiper moter. And Cool, this one has 2 speeds.
So, this thread is a about 3 years old. How has the replacement stood up in the test of time?
Thanks,
Harvey
SleepyC _________________ Though in our sleep we are not conscious of our activity or surroundings, we should not, in our wakefulness, be unconscious of our sleep. |
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BTDT
Joined: 07 Jan 2011 Posts: 322 City/Region: Grand Lake Oklahoma
State or Province: OK
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: C- Lark Wine Down
Photos: C-Lark
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Posted: Sun Feb 23, 2020 10:19 am Post subject: |
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hardee wrote: | Boris, I just saw your note on another thread with the link to this thread. WOW, sure wish I had found this before I replaced my port side wiper moter. And Cool, this one has 2 speeds.
So, this thread is a about 3 years old. How has the replacement stood up in the test of time?
Thanks,
Harvey
SleepyC |
My two speed wiper motor is still working fine |
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journey on
Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 3597 City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
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Posted: Sun Feb 23, 2020 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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The Oigo wipers are doing just fine; in fact better than I am. Judy's side gets a lot more use than my side.
Boris |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12633 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2020 1:04 am Post subject: |
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Thank for that info.
Harvey
SleepyC
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schiavolou
Joined: 10 Mar 2007 Posts: 122 City/Region: Wilton Creek, VA
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Skimmer
Photos: Skimmer
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Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 10:42 am Post subject: |
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When port side motor quit, replaced it with simple, manual unit. Plenty good for Chesapeake, where we spend little time in rain! _________________ Lou S.
Skimmer |
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BBlalock
Joined: 31 Jan 2017 Posts: 140 City/Region: Ocean/ICW
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Finale
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Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2020 10:24 am Post subject: |
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I might need to replace my port wiper motor. I have checked the fuse in the fuse block on the bulkhead of the v-birth. I have read there is another fuse on the park circuit but do not know where it might be. My switch starts the stbd. wiper or both wipers.
If I have to replace 1 I will likely replace both with the Orango 33611.
Benton _________________ '13 25' Cruiser "Finale"
'12 22' Fiesta pontoon(sold) |
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BBlalock
Joined: 31 Jan 2017 Posts: 140 City/Region: Ocean/ICW
State or Province: NC
C-Dory Year: 2013
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Finale
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Posted: Wed Mar 17, 2021 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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I finally got serious about getting the SO's wiper fixed. On my 25' there is no fuse panel under the clear covered one on the vbirth bulkhead. Only a ground bar with many yellow wires attached.
I took the wiper cover off and could not find any power getting to it but confirmed power at the switch.
I pushed back the Chinese handcuff stuff covering the wires and there were splices about 6" out of the box. Got my power probe and grounded it to the box and pushed the point into the yellow with red stripe wire and it ran. No idea why it works. I will be resplicing that connection.
Anybody have an idea why it works now? |
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