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water pump for head and sink

 
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JAKE7746



Joined: 01 Jun 2012
Posts: 12
City/Region: CAPE CORAL
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2010
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Quality Time III
Photos: Quality Time II
PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 5:38 pm    Post subject: water pump for head and sink Reply with quote

[b][size=18][/size] the circuit breaker kicks out in a few seconds. Pumps water and then kicks out > I do not know where locate and how to follow wires[/b]
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not being a mechanic (at all) I usually have to have someone do that stuff for me. That = $$$.

The wires would be on the back of the switch, red and black I would guess, with one going to the pump, and one to the power source, battery or main power switch.

(OK, maybe you should wait for someone who knows what they are talking about. Embarassed

Good thing there are good folks here who do know how to do that. I just know wires go from one place to the next and the power goes through them. If the pump is setting off the fuse, it may be a short in the pump motor.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


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jkidd



Joined: 23 Oct 2006
Posts: 1609
City/Region: Northern, Utah
State or Province: UT
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Voyager
Photos: Voyager (JK)
PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disconnect the wires at the pump replace the fuse turn on the power and see if the fuse blows. If it doesn’t the pump is probably bad. You can test just the pump by hooking it to the battery be careful watch for smoke. Just touch the wires for a short time and see if it spins. Use long wires so the pump is away from you. Or just buy a new pump and don’t test it.
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Micahbigsur@msn.com



Joined: 27 May 2019
Posts: 484
City/Region: Big Sur
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sierra
Photos: Sierra
PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2019 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As your pump kicks I'm momentarily before your breaker trips it is likely that your pump is locking up either from an electrical fault or a mechanical jamb. If it is a wiring dead short I would think the breaker would trip instantly. You can pull off the front cover of the pump to check for anything that came down the inlet water line that may have caused it to jamb. If there is debris in your tank you may have to put a water strainer in the line before the pump. If the pump is old there are a few other ways for the motor itself to lock up and have so much amp draw that it trips your breaker.
Bob will hopefully chime in also as he has mentioned repairing these pumps whereas I tend to chuck them and buy a new one as they are an item that just plain wears out with use.
Good luck

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Micah Curtis and Dana, RN
2003 C-dory 25 Sierra, 200, 9.9 and 2.5 Suzukis
2012 R25 SC Sequoia (2015-2018)
1978 Folkes 38 SV Audacious (2006-2015)
Micah, KJ6GUF, Dana, KJ6GXG
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4656
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2019 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've rebuilt a 2.9 gph Jabsco...once. Not worth it, IMO. You can only really replace the diaphragm and pressure switch. The motor itself then rusted out and I had to replace the entire unit. Getting it up and out of the wet bilge did more for making it last than anything else.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20779
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2019 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't chimed in, because I am not sure where the water pump will be in a 2010 C Dory25. I believe that the water tank will be aft, like mine is, in a 2007. If so the water pump will be under the port side cockpit floor hatch. It is a bad place, because water can get on top of the pump, and if water in the bilge, the pump can stand in it. The first thing I did upon buying this 25 was to move the pump aft, so it does not have water dripping on it. I also mounted it on a 3/4" thick piece of Starboard (High density Polyethylene). I put in a quick disconnect for the electrical, and the pump already has quick disconnect for the hoses.

The pump I have is a 3 stage Jabsco. It can be rebuilt and the rebuild kit contains springs, valves and diaphragms. I have a new one on the boat, and a rebuilt one at home.

Tracing the wires will be almost impossible, once you get past the console. The wiring goes aft under the galley, along with several dozen other wires (at least run my boat). Unfortunately the wires are not always color coded. Yes, generally the positive is red and the negative or ground is yellow or black). But if the builder follows the "convention": The ground will be brown and the positive green! The wiring goes to the pressure switch before going to the motor itself.

I always put a fine mesh wire strainer before the pump. I like to have the pump below the level of the tank, so the pump does not have to pull a prime. but the standard fresh water pump should easily suck water up several feet if necessary. Pressure generally runs from 25 to 50 PSI--average being in the low 30's.

Some of the other 25's have had the fresh water pump near the water heater--usually under the aft dinette seat.

You have already been given good hints on trouble shooting. I like to carry a long hunk or #`14 wire, so I can bypass switches and go directly to the pump. Apparently the pump pressurizes the system, but then blows the breaker. It could even be bad wiring, with a short, which completes the circuit when the wiring gets hot? I would start at the pump. cut the wires, and see what happens with power directly from a battery--you can measure the current, if you have a clamp on amp meter or an amp meter with a shunt. Generally the in series amp measurements in a digital multimeter are limited to 10 amps--and the water pump may draw up to 15 amps. (or more if there is a short). If you try and measure current more than 10 amps, it will blow an internal fuse in the multi-meter. This can be replaced by taking the meter apart.

I would also be watching the temperature of the pump motor. If it is getting too hot, there is a problem, either with the motor, or some restriction in the pump mechanism. My pump is a wobble plate type of pump--and the valves are what tend to go--fairly easy to rebuild if the motor is still OK.

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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
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Home port: Pensacola FL
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