my oil looks like a milkshake :(

[Micahbigsur@msn.com]

Someone's rebuilt core long block or brand new Honda factory long block, there is a big difference.

[Robert H. Wilkinson]

Just wondering if syncing would be any problem with a new engine in tandem with a 12 year - 700hr. one?

[gulfcoast john]

Another vote for cash for the blem with warranty. When you sell, you will recoup much more of your cost than you would with your other options. Your buyer will be much more confident. You’ll get back out there much sooner and you’ll be more confident in your new engine. Tough break, but at least you and your buds weren’t et by a shark.

Make sure your rigger plugs the new engine N2k output plug into your existing N2k network and you’ll be able to monitor a constant digital readout of your engine temp (and any number of other engine parameters you choose) on your MFD display. Dealers would of course rather sell you two new $500 Honda gauges and pretend to know nothing….NOTHING! about this. Once the rigging tube is crammed full of cables and lines etc it’s hard to snake a N2K adapter through all that, but I did it, and you could do it on the other engine. Of the 4 tiny shielded wires, only the blue and white ones carry the data so that’s all you have to cut and snake through Then reconnect with 3M dot splices to the network plug inside the transom.

My engines always run within 2 degrees of each other at all speeds. I’m surprised the thermostats are that sensitive. If one goes 5 degrees higher than the other or over 134 degrees I know something is wrong. We had an overheat alarm at idle at only 126 degrees in a Canada canal….I was suspecting a faulty sensor, but sure enough some gooey muck was partially obstructing the intake. Cleared the muck and cleared the fault. That makes me suspect that the alarm programming parameters take RPM into account (or GPS speed?). In the FL Keys there are mats of sea grass everywhere, and by watching the digital temp readouts I have an earlier warning than the alarm and manage not to be surprised by it when it happens. It also helps immensely when running the engine on the flush muffs to know the exact engine temp and rate of increase.

I agree with all who note that the overheat alarms seem to be very conservative across brands. Even with a bad sensor and a bad captain (not you, Conrad), the ECM is a backup that’s going to put the engine in ‘limp home’ mode and it should not be permanently damaged.

Since it’s your money and not mine, I’d suggest looking into the other powerhead to make sure the same mysterious evil forces are not cavorting around within it as well. You could have new twins. They will still be much cheaper than, say, twin baby girls. Or quadruplets.

Here's (hopefully) the Eff off St Johns at 1.8 ft and getting shallow fast with both engines at 129 degrees. Conrad, post a higher-risk pic than this. (last pic, on page 18 of album).


Best of luck!
John

[cmetzenberg]

[thataway]

[gulfcoast john]

Conrad,
Regrets, NMEA 0183 is 1983 technology according to this 2013 article…

https://www.meridianyachtowners.com/threads/nmea-183-vs-nmea-2000-information.6110/

All I remember of NMEA 0183 is infinite frustration with 30 (or was it 60?) or so multi-colored hair-size wires. Your question is whether that 1983 system carries the engine digital temp data output of a 2007 or 2019 Honda BF150.

I don’t know.

My impression is that all the major outboards had N2k data output by mid 2006, depending on serial number (Mercury had their non-compatible proprietary equivalent on my 2004 Regal I/O engine).

The simple 5-pin N2k backbone ($67 retail!) is plug ‘n play simple and carries MUCH more data. From your picture album I assume you have a nice Furuno multifunction display (or any modern chartplotter) that would display all N2k data once you choose it. 0183, doubt it but upgrade for $67 and you can do it in an afternoon.

PM me and I’ll send a leftover N2K backbone to you free.

Sorry for your troubles and hope you get through them with the grit, tolerance and spine you have demonstrated on this site.

I wish I had the knowledge to give you a definitive answer to your very reasonable question. I salute you here,

Good Luck!

John

[Micahbigsur@msn.com]

All the little 0183 wires are a pain to wire up, especially to more than one device, good riddance. Once you start with a network you will find them very easy and flexable.

[ssobol]

[cmetzenberg]

So i've been talking with a dealer in Fresno CA who has a 2006 BF 150. It has under 200hrs and claims to have never been run in saltwater. I asked the guy to send me the alarm history but says that the he already cleared it and that all it had was a couple of high temp alerts. This dealer has terrible reviews on yelp and google. What do you all think? It sketches me out that he cleared the alarms.

[thataway]

Bad reviews--don't do business. Cleared the alarms--high temp? Why, what temp, and duration. Why was the motor traded in with only the low hours?

If you can find a motor which was traded in, because it was not enough HP for the boat--and it is documented that the owner went from 150 to 200+--that would probably be the best scenario...

[localboy]

“...iz no problem...”. (With thick Russian accent)

I’m always cynical of someone, who is trying to sell me something, telling me the item is fine...yet they cleared the proof that it is. Perhaps it’s my lack of faith in mankind due to my job...

[cmetzenberg]

[westward]

[thataway]

[cmetzenberg]

[/img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/HpxnKJAQMNcU5Kk49 Get your BF150 pieces folks! We're making year end deals at Conrad's junk yard of dreams!