1984 22ft Angler

[Real Estate Broker]

I am a hopeful owner tomorrow of a 1984 Angler. Can anyone please tell me if there are any significant difference in this model over the years?
I am currently a Boston Whaler guy but have been waiting for the right Dory. The prospect has only 150 hours(Is there a Hobbs Meter on these boats??) says its in great condition and selling it for 15k. Seems like a great deal to me on the surface. Plus, all but last year was in fresh water.

THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!!!

[Chris Bulovsky]

Not being an expert on this but from what I recall. The early boats have a flatter bottom, Different transom, and a plywood core vrs balsa cored. Many who have the early models love them. One thing I noticed is that the early ones do not have a bow rail on some of them. The original boats in my opinion are also some of the most handsome boats. Very tuff looking. The company over time modified the boat from year to year to what it is now. Hope it works out for you. For the 15k Id be sure that the motors are tip top. I have seen 90s cruisers in the mid 20k range with good motors.

Good luck

Chris

[C-Otter]

What type of motor and trailer? I love my 85 Classic Angler, tough as nails. C-Otter

[Jimbo]

We got our 1981 Classic angler and can't say enough good about it. Even the 1988 88hp Johnson purrs like a kitten. Great boat.
jimnsher

[Sea Wolf]

Here are a few remarks from a recent post about how the "Classic" and more recent CD-22's compare:

************************************************************

What follows below is not an attempt to help sell this boat or any other to you, but just some thinking that the consideration of this boat and the other one on the C-Dog site have made me do about the older "Classic" design C-Dorys.

All 22's before 1987 are the classic models. They look like an 1987 or later Angler externally because they have a shorter cabin, but have a diffeerent layout in the cockpit and the cabin.

The pre-87's have a short cabin, an open port side of the interior bulkhead to the v-berth, a shortened dinette table and single seat to port, a small space to the rear of the helm to starboard, a lower roof line (no center bulge), the stern has a center motor well with both sides at the stern open and a shelves below, the rear cabin bulkhead and door are wood, and the boat has a flat bottom that looks exactly like the bottom of a clothes iron.


Most of us have the 1987 or later models. Those of us with the Cruisers love them for their interior amenities: galley, sink, dinette, convertible berth, private v-berth, etc. This is a conventional design that sells exactly because it has appeal to the couple/family buyer and requires little modification for most uses. The Angler, the more direct descendant of the Classic CD, is more like the original boat with a larger cockpit and a more spartan interior. The factory for a short while offered a Sport Fisher (I think that's the term) which is more of a day-use fishing boat without the rear cabin bulkhead and more dedicated seating.

The original Classic design probably seemed a little unorthodox and less immediately appealing to potential customers. The open rear sides of the cockpit and narrow central engine well don't look like a typical purpose designed fishing boat at the boatshow. The interior lacked finished definition of space and was missing the elements of spousal appeal and privacy that create the consensus necessary to write the down payment check. And the absolutely flat, seemingly cut off bottom was to most an enigma that just left most shoppers wondering. Thus the re-design of the boat for 1987.

But, having looked at and considered this design for a good number of years, it makes more and more sense, especially for use as a dedicated fishing machine.

The large and very open cockpit has loads of room and can be modified to accommodate a lot of fishing, crabbing, and other equipment. Rods, nets, livewells, fishboxes, traps, davits, dingies- maybe you can't have them all, but you can have more of them than with a two foot shorter cockpit with closed transom corners.

Internally, the cabin can be modified as needed for your specific needs. Lots of room there to tailor the boat to your fishing/boating plans. A
project person's dream with a few tools and some time.

The hull's secrets are usually untold. The absolutely flat bottom rocks somewhat less at rest than a shallow v. ( and a lot less than a deep v, which the CD's are not). It planes relatively easily, like the shallow V of the later boats, and sets flat on a mud or sand bottom with the tide out, so you won't want roll out of bed when the tide takes it leave, or need a gimballed stove for breakfast. Plus, it's draft should be even shallower than the shallow V.

Overall, it appears the Classic C-Dory was very carefully and cleverly designed as a utility fishing boat with a lot of adaptability, but not very well understood by the public after the typical quick glance or look at the boatshow or dealer's lot. Probably even a good explanation of the boats qualities and design solutions by a salesman would be met with unsettled indecision unless the prospective buyer had a wealth of knowledge and experiences with fishing boats of this size and purpose.

But that's not to say that we can't today appreciate these Classic C-Dorys for what they are and how they can be used. As a dedicated fishing boat for a person who knows what they're going to do with the vessel and can determine how it fits their needs, it may be a very good fit. Especially if one likes projects and has the time to do the work. As such a boat like this actually provides a second hobby of boat modification that is entertaining in its own right.

If you'd like to see just how far this type of endeavor can lead, look at Red Fox's 1985 Classic C-Dory on the Sound Dreams link on the left menu. Fortunately, the approach can be enjoyed fully at a somewhat less intense level as well.

************************************************************

That just about does it, but I thought I'd just share these ideas with you for your consideration and amusement. Good luck! Joe.
_________________

[Byrdman]

Roger on SENSEI can answer questions on these great boats too.

[Real Estate Broker]

I would like to say thanks to all that replied. Looksa as though I will be buying that boat next Friday after a water trial. I left a deposit. Here is what I know now. The hull is in EXCELLENT shape as documented by a marine surveyer. It still has the original 1984 Johnson 90 horese with only 160 HOURS on both the motor and boat. The motor has a hour meter under the cover. The original owner was in Az and has only seen salt water this past year 4 times with the new owner. So, although its old, it has LOW LOW hours. The current owner bought it for work but he needs something bigger. The interior is pretty much gutted. No fridg, stove, etc. I dont need a stove but would buy a new fridg. Also, it does have a very pricey fishfinder, and a new vhf. There are no dings on the interior floor at all. My new questions are these:

How good are those 2 stroke Johnsons??
Is it normal to have grayish spider web type markings throughout the interior fiberglass?
Also, I should have explained my purpose with the boat. ...It will have bottom paint put on and she will stay in the san francisco bay year round. And thats where I will fish 99.9% of the time. It has a non-galvanized trailer in decent shape, with new brakes.

Again, Thanks to all!!!!

[Sea Wolf]

Broker-

The 90 hp v-4 Johnson / Evinrude is a workhorse. I had one, ran it to 600 hours, and only had routine maintenence done to except for some fuel debris issues with one carburetor when MBTE was first introduced. Someone bought it when I traded it in, and paid $1200 for it. Probably had another 300-400 hours or more left in it!

They have separate ignition modules for each cylinder, and each cylinder has it own carburetor throat. This so that if you have problems, you lose only one cylinder, not two or all four.

The motor may have VRO (Variable Ratio Oiling), which adds oil to the fuel based on engine loading. If you ever have problems with this, you can eliminate the VRO feature, and just go with 50:1 premix.

I'd have the water pump replaced and the plugs checked as well as the compression. The motor may have very few hours, but the rubber (probably Neoprene) water pump impeller may be deteriorated with time and is the single most important internal prone to fail and cause a problem part in any outboard motor.

Are the spider cracks really cracks or just Zolatone paint? It looks like spider webs and splattering over a base coat. If the boat is in as good of shape as you say, there shouldn't be tons of stress cracks, especially only on the inside.

If you look carefully at the longer of the posts I made above, you can see that the interior may not be missing much, just designed that way.

Will be a great S.F. Bay fishing boat!

Joe.

[C-Otter]

My 85 Classic does not have a gelcoat crack any where. It has a 1987 Johnson 90HP with oil injection and 400 hours, never missed a beat.

The interior is a splatter type of paint, may look like cracks but I think not.
I could sell it at the dock ten times over. Always refer people to C-Dogs or Brats.

Maybe something will happen to the Johnson, so I can justify to my wife that I need $8,500 for a new E Tech or 4 stroke. Great boat,Great Motor.
C-Otter

[Larry H]

Real Estate Broker,

I was an Evinrude/Johnson mechanic during their two stroke era and its true the 90 hp was very sturdy and reliable. I have seen these four cylinder motors melt down one piston and still run! Because the oil is in the fuel, the entire crank, crank bearings, rods, rod bearings, pistons and cylinder bores are coated with oil. This helps prevent any rust on those items.

If the smoke cloud on start-up bothers you, Evinrude has three grades of two-cycle oil. The middle grade is a synthetic blend and almost eliminates the smoke. It runs about $25.00 a gallon. I have been using it in my 1991 70 hp Evinrude for three years. Great stuff!

In addition to checking/replacing the water pump impeller, consider checking/replacing the fuel hoses both in the boat and on the motor. Be sure to use the correct hose, see a dealer for the original equipment hose. The MTBE and alcohol in the fuel drys out the fuel hose.

I would also have the gearcase oil replaced, and pull the prop and inspect the prop shaft seal for fishline or cracks. Those seals can be replaced(by the dealer) without tearing down the gearcase.