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Suzuki 2.5 outboard idle problems

 
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Marco Flamingo



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 10:56 am    Post subject: Suzuki 2.5 outboard idle problems Reply with quote

Another post reminded me to post about my Suzuki 2.5 outboard idle problems. It is addressed other places on the web, but the solutions were various and, as is often the case, sometimes people who resolve the problem don't come back to the thread when they have found the solution. Here is my experience.

The Suzuki 2.5 has an incredibly small idle jet orifice. One solution was to go to the next larger size jet. I had fiddled with all the settings on my 2.5 to try to get it to idle, but with no success. I had to go directly from a half-choke fast idle directly into gear at partial throttle. Hard on the engine. Idle wasn't possible and when used on my little aluminum kicker, idle is just the right speed for trolling. Very frustrating that it worked perfectly for a few months and then would not idle.

I ordered the larger jet and a little carburetor jet cleaning tool (a series of thin wires) and when they arrived I pulled out the jet. I couldn't see light through it, and even the smallest cleaning wire was too large to pass through the jet. I have no idea how they manufacture a jet with that tiny of a passage. Before I installed the larger jet, I washed off the original, put it in my lips, and sucked. I could tell that I popped loose a tiny (carcinogenic) obstruction. I shot carb cleaner through it and reinstalled. Problem fixed. Almost.

I am very careful with making sure that my gas is clean because I knew that the 2.5 carb would be very sensitive to crud in the gas. I use an extremely fine filtering funnel when filling as there is no filter between the carb and the tank. In fact, there is no space there to put a filter (I tried). But I did find the source of the tiny particles that I found when I drained and flushed the tank.

The gas fill cap is on a tether, as is common with small outboards. The cap end of the tether has a large washer. If you remove that washer, you will find two problem areas. One is that behind the washer is a fiber disc "air filter" material that is quite coarse. It would keep out knats and small stones, but not all matter large enough to choke off the slow idle jet. But the main problem with the material is that it degrades. I could see that some of it had hardened (maybe from exposure to gas fumes?) and fallen apart. The only place that those tiny pieces could go is down into the tank. I removed what was left and will take my chances with knats.

The second problem was that the large washer is coated steel (zinc, cadmium?). There was apparently sufficient condensation in the little tank such that the washer had corroded (especially the backside that isn't visible). I could "dust off" some type of oxidation. Again, pieces that were just the right size to go unnoticed but large enough to clog the Suzuki 2.5 idle jet. Since the washer's purpose was to hold the crumbling "air filter," and that was now gone, I didn't replace the washer. The retaining tether works fine without it. I had removed both sources of obstructing particles from inside the tank.

The 2.5 has a white gas tank, so any little particles are fairly easy to see if they are sitting at the bottom. But I need to remember to keep an eye on that. Hope this helps somebody who has this issue with an otherwise wonderful little motor.

Mark
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potter water



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great and helpful post. My 2.5 Suzy hasn't had that problem but then it is only a couple years old and very few hours on it.

I think is it mandatory that all, "I've got a problem" posts should be followed up with what the fix turned out to be.

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island andy



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark, very cogent discussion of your problem and solution. I would also second....ahh.......third the idea of requiring the posting of the resolution of problems discussed.
I wonder if you are using that curse of small engines, ethanol adulterated gasoline? For a low consumption engine such as your 2.5, you might consider aviation gas if there is not a vendor of non ethanol gas near you. Not only does ethanol dissolve stuff, maybe like your gasket, it "attracts" water and can lead to condensation such as you describe and corrosion of things like your washer. Not to mention contaminating your gas with water. There is a website which identifies gas stations which have non ethanol gas on a state and province specific basis. Something like pure_gas.com??
Second, you might consider an inline filter between tank and carb. The sort used by fuel injected outboards will catch very small particles.
andy

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Bboater



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark
I had a similar issue with my 2.5 suzuki 2008 model year. i found this topic on Youtube. I followed what they said and my motor runs perfect. i was quite surprised. Took about 10 minutes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2xpV9CJCNc

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Marco Flamingo



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brett,

I tried the same fix, but no go. I think that adjusting the idle mixture screw works if the jet is partially blocked, but not completely blocked. I couldn't get the screw to make sufficient adjustment.

My rural gas station has "real gas" because the local loggers require it in their chainsaws. Time is money and $4.20/gal is a deal. On nice weekends there is a line at the pump with hot rods from all over the county. I run it in my chainsaw, but that's premix in jerry can. I guess it's time for yet another jerry can.

Mark
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thataway



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great solution. I always buy fresh ethanol free gas before a trip--and what is left over I drain, if it is going to be some time before I am using the motor. (I pumped out 30 gallons from my C Dory 22, since I am going to be laid up for 4 months, and had 3 gallons of non ethanol for the generator. This is still fresh gas, so it goes into our cars.

I am a little surprised that there is not room for a flat in line filter--it might almost be worth it, to extend the fuel line and put a filter in. My recollection is that there was a fuel shut off valve in the 2.5's (unfortunately I sold my 2.5, but my Merc 3.5 2 stroke does have such a valve. (Looking at the diagrams of the engine, it looks as if there is a shut off valve just at the tank, and then there might be enough room for the filter on the fuel hose after it leaves the fuel pump?..

When I have carburetor issues like that, I soak the jets and bowel with carb cleaner, then using an air chuck with a rubber nozzle blow out the jet with 100 PsI air. Repeat if necessary--it may not have worked going forward, but sometimes blowing back will dislodge the debris.

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Marco Flamingo



Joined: 09 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob,

The distance between the tank and the carburetor was too short for the littlest inline filter that I could find. I thought I would be clever and made a loop of gas line that allowed me to tuck the filter down inside the cowling. In theory, it shouldn't make much difference if the line from the tank goes down and then back up to the carb. But the little engine didn't like it, even after I checked for kinks, and I went back the the original direct connect w/o filter.

I've now spent more time working on it than running it. I'm now entitled to 100 trouble free hours.

Mark
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