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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

An update. First, the slotted bit screw driver that fits is a #4 or 3/8" bit. Not only do I have that large screwdriver I mentioned earlier, but just recently also bought an impact driver set that has the right size slotted bit. Also, the helicoil repair appears to have worked. Time will tell....But the helicoils are stainless steel, so I'm hoping they seal them selves in real well due to normal galvanic adhesion. (Corrosion...) Drain screws (3/8 x 16 on the main and M8 x 1.25 on the kicker) appear to fit in well also. Next project is going to be finding some inexpensive washers for the M8 Screw. (The 3/8 are fairly easy to find...) Now that the stripped threads are repaired on the lower units, I was going to torque the screws to the proper limit so I pulled out my shop manuals and.....guess what... no torque limits listed. The Tohatsu shop manual does list 13 N-m (9 lb-ft) for an M8 bolt, but nothing specifically for the drain screw. Couldn't find anything in the Merc shop manual. So for those of you that say you are torquing them with torque wrenches, I'd be curious what settings your are using and where you found the specs? Colby
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jkswor



Joined: 23 Jun 2011
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wish I had the problem of striping the screw
I have an evenrude etec with aluminum lower unit
Someone over tightened the drain plug and stripped the thread in the hole
So now the hole has to be repaired
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Colby, generally the torque is 6 to 8 foot lbs. I use a 3/8" torque wrench which reads in inch lbs, and it more compact to carry on the boat. You will still want to use a crush washer.

jkswor, I don't think anyone is is stripping the "screw"--it is the "hole"--threads which are aluminum in all of these outboard motors which is soft. The "screw" is usually Stainless steel, which is much harder than the aluminum. Solution, is to insert a Helicoil.

The below image shows how a Helicoil is inserted into your aluminum lower unit.


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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
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City/Region: Madison
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Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, regarding tapping out the stripped threads in the hole. I then used mineral spirits to flush out the lower unit of the filings. Pumped the Spirits through the vent hole, backwards from how we put the oil in, so I was not pushing the filings up thru the interior. Ran the Spirits thru until I didn't see any more filings. Then let it dry a bit before putting the oil in properly. Colby
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T.R. Bauer



Joined: 17 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't want filings in my lower unit either. But on the flip side, those aluminum chunks are much much softer than the hardened steel gears and a stray one probably won't cause a problem. I hate this kind of stuff.....
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When tapping for a Helicoil in a lower unit, generally there is grease put on the drill bit, (and tap) and the drill out is slow, pulling any bits of aluminum out as you go along. Same with the tap. I fund that tapping aluminum particularly, it is go forward, then back, wipe off any bits of aluminum. forward and back, etc. you can keep pushing forward with the tap I probably would run some lighter oil before putting in the 90 weight gear oil.

Some plugs have a magnet to pickup iron particles. One of the negatives with replacement screws, is that they will probably not have the magnet in the end of that screw.
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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that method of tapping (little at a time, backing out, then back in, works pretty well in any material. As for the magnetic screws, neither my main or my kicker came with a magnetized screw. However, you can find them aftermarket fairly easy. I still don't run one in the kicker, but I do in the Main. Colby
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T.R. Bauer



Joined: 17 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

colbysmith wrote:
I think that method of tapping (little at a time, backing out, then back in, works pretty well in any material. As for the magnetic screws, neither my main or my kicker came with a magnetized screw. However, you can find them aftermarket fairly easy. I still don't run one in the kicker, but I do in the Main. Colby


That's my experience too - especially with thicker materials. The tool doesn't take long to lock up inside because of the chips and filings. I have TIG welded lower units with problems like this. I think it is best way to repair them, but lots of ways work. I've welded lots of cracks in lower units as people like to hit rocks with them.....damn rocks!
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Jack in Alaska



Joined: 17 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 9:54 pm    Post subject: "O"ring seal Reply with quote

An O ring is a sealing rubber and seals by filling the void where it fits. Getting "hurkey" with the plug is foolish as it does not seal that way. A slight tug with a screw driver is all that is needed. If it leaks it is a bad o ring or the sealing surface is damaged.

Plugs with a crush gasket need to be tight but not o ring seals.

Jack

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jkswor



Joined: 23 Jun 2011
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to bring this back but, I have read that helicol does not seal well and some recommend using a mercury drain plug. However I can't find how to drill and tap to that size. Anyone know what size bit and tap to use for a mercury drain plug
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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
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City/Region: Madison
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C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Sorry to bring this back but, I have read that helicol does not seal well and some recommend using a mercury drain plug. However I can't find how to drill and tap to that size. Anyone know what size bit and tap to use for a mercury drain plug


Well....my main is a Merc, and my kicker is a Tohatsu. The main lower unit drain plug on my Mercury 115 4-stroke EFI is 3/8" x 16 and the Tohatsu 6hp is M8 x 1.25. Glad to see Jacks msg again while I was writing this, as at first I was worried then about using the helicoil. But he is right in that the plug seals with the gasket / washer. All I was doing was a light tug, but guess we have different versions of light tug. lol! I don't want that sucker coming loose from engine vibration, but then repairing stripped out threads is a PITA also. Colby
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